Shifter Issues

My shifter is stuck in first and reverse. I've been trying to find in the Shop Manual any instructions on adjusting but it's confusing. The instructions say to set the transmission in neutral and then adjust but it doesn't explain how to find neutral or the positions of the shift levers on the transmission for neutral. It only directs to loosen the transmission shift levers from the rods and then place the shifter in neutral and tighten.

I think my throw out bearing is rusted in place also but I should be able to fix that.

Any help?

mine used to hang up between 1st and 2nd...would have to crawl under the van and pull on the shift rods...hope this helps

I am assuming you have a three speed manual transmission?  If so, you should feel distinct "notches" when you move the levers on the side of the transmission.  Place both levers in the center notch.  That would be neutral.  You may be able to check (if something like brakes isn't stuck.) by trying to roll your van.  Oh!  First thing is definitely chock your wheels before crawling under!  Hope this helps.
Jim

If you Search: adjust shift; -you will find this: www.vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t25878-still-having-shift-problems-help?highlight=adjust+shift -should be helpful

First posted this about twenty years ago, the 1st time of a gazzilion,,,,,, Transmission has a detent system in it so that it CANNOT SHIFT into another gear. SO, when your shifter gets stuck in a gear AND THE SHIFT PIN in the steering column shift tube CANNOT MOVE INTO THE OTHER SHIFTERS NEUTRAL GATE,,,,,,,,,,, it will not shift and be stuck in gear. This subject easily more discussed over the last twenty years than the smell of gasoline and fuel perc.....  There is a 1/4" hole in ALL OF OUR SHIFTERS. THIS includes the three shifters of a four speed, the two shifters of a 3 spd manual AND also an automatic. Ford even putting a dot on the shift plate to indicate EXACTLY of where to adjust neutral on a automatic.  I am late for work and doctors and so make this as quick as  I can and get back to it late tonight?  The holes are 1/4" and ALSO the hole in the passengers side of the lower aluminum steering column mount,,,,ALL OF THIS IN ORDER TO clock the shifting pin in neutral relationship so that it can enter either of the two shifters neutral gates. SO,, you put LOOSEN BUT DO NOT REMOVE the two lock nuts on the shifting rods. YOU WANT THE SHIFT RODS TO MOVE EASILY!! THEN using a 1/4" round stock of any type ( I use a Phillips head screwdriver,, VERY OLD PICTURE) AND insert it down and through the hole in the mount and then down THROUGH the matching 1/4" holes in each of the shifters. THIS ALIGNS THE SHIFTING PIN TO EACH OF THE TWO NEUTRAL GATES in each shifter. THEN set each of the shifters in the transmission to neutral also. THE DETENTS in the trans will NOT ALLOW YOU TO SHIFT THE OTHER SHIFTER,,,,,,,,,,,IF YOU DONT HAVE IT IN NEUTRAL, SO,,,,,,,,,,,,if you can shift both shifters back and forth then this means they ARE BOTH IN NEUTRAL.  THEN re tighten the nuts so that they also match the steering column shifter to also be in neutral. 
   IF THIS DOES NOT WORK,, it usually means that THE HOLE IN THE SHIFT TUBE IS WALLOWED OUT as the factory CHAMFERRED the hole and the hardened pin has now worn it out and it CAN NO LONGER FIND THE OPPOSING SHIFTERS NEUTRAL GATE AND WILL NO LONGER SHIFT consistently.  
  I tig weld a new end in place using cold rolled steel when I rebuild them,,,,

Here is the main culprit aside the normal upper support/pivot being usually broken of which Ford updated to a stronger unit as posted many times in the GENII.   The shift tube is MILD STEEL and BOTH THE SHIFTERS AND THE SHIFT PIN ARE HARDENED. Ford also, screwed up by CHAMFERRING the hole on both sides which offers LESSOR SUPPORT material at the same time. This shift pin MOVES EVERY TIME IT SHIFTED FOR OVER 50 YEARS!! and it gets worn out. SO,, as the shifter gates are hardened they CAN ONLY BE GROUND to a lager spread in order to be able to use an OVERSIZED HARDENED SHIFT PIN,,,,,,,,,,,,,  1st pic shows worn out hole (more worn out than most) and the 2nd pic shows a rebuilt end piece and the  correct shifting to each neutral gate. I tig weld a new end onto the shift tube using cold rolled steel instead of mild steel and with NO CHAMFERRING on the hole. 

I got it to shift.  I cleaned off all the gunk underneath around the levers. I'll take pictures later after I clean some more. There's a plastic cover over the selector that has a hole for the zerk and it obstructs me from seeing where the selector rod is. So I set the shifter in neutral and I banged the bottom with a small sledge until it freed up. Squirted some penetrating oil in there and worked is until it moved smooth but I think I have to grease it up now. It's still not super smooth but you can now feel where it goes into gear and the Shift column lever will automatically stay in the down position when in neutral. I never looked at the mileage until now and it's at 33568. Could be clocked over since it was parked in 1980 but I don't think so. The brake parts are coming out real solid after treating and they look real good with the exception of the springs (I'm replacing those). The drums look hardly used. I have to replace all the hard brake lines in the rear but the front looks good.