Monster electric cooling fan?

Hello friends! Has anyone used a Monster cooling fan, 160 watt, 2500 cfm in there Econoline with a 200 il6. I am thinking of purchasing one with the relay kit but don't know if the relay kit sending unit will fit the 6 or if there may be some other fitting issues / clearance. Does anyone have any experience with this unit that can help. Thank you.

I'm not familiar with that unit but clearance is usually the issue. Electric fans tend to take up more space than the stock fan. I had to make spacers to move my radiator forward a bit to install an electric fan. As far as the sending unit goes, they are generally compatible or come with bushing etc to fit multiple applications. The sending unit can be installed in the thermostat housing. If your housing doesn't have the hole, there is generally a boss on it that can be drilled and tapped with a 3/8" pipe tap. Or you can get a different one that already has the port.

Thank you, I Forgot this engine had a port on the thermostat housing. My other one did not. This fan is 2 3/4" deep so I will shim the radiator if need be. I believe it uses 25 amps. I was looking at a 1 wire alternator from Macs that puts out 100 amps. Hopefully this will work for me, and maybe a deep cycle battery. Thank you.

Imo, if you have a 1G alternator now, you are better off using the compatible 3G 90 or 120 amp as a replacement. I'd go with the 90 unless you can you 2 belts. It's a direct bolt in, you'll just have to swap the pulley. It's also "1-wire" meaning all you need is the excite signal from the dash lamp(which is currently wired to the 1G regulator). The 90A has the same dimensions around, produces 30 amps min at low idle, and is full output @ ~1000-1200 rpm @ a 2:1 ratio(which is easy on the belt). It's a better alternator than the GM and is available at any auto parts store anywhere within a day if it isn't already in stock. If you're interested I'll give you all the details on pulley sizing and source and the right year for reference to get the alternator.

Yes I would be interested. I know absolutely nothing about alternators, and wireing them up. The gentleman I bought the engine from had an alternator hooked up to it but it didn't come with the deal. I do believe I have the correct brackets though and it does have a double pulley on the pump but I think the 90 should be good enough.The only thing I would be running is the fan and a stereo so I would think 90 amps should be enough. I have been using the original generator and regulator since I bought the van. Is the 90 internally regulated and would I still be using the original regulator for anything like horn relay or anything or does that get removed?

Your old regulator and alternator harness will go away. The 3G has a small regulator mounted to the outside of the alternator. I will find all my links I've posted and relay them for you later. Basically you'll need the correct alternator, 2 wiring pigtails that can be bought new, and the correct pulley. You'll need to measure your crank pulley and divide that by 2 to get the size you need.

Im having a really hard time finding the 90 amp version, it seems like they are only offering the 130A units now. I've found aftermarket rebuilt versions, but it's better to have a good reference for the auto parts store imo. What you need is an alternator for a 94-99 V6 Mustang like this one:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/alternator-8793.html?utm_content=Engine%20-%20Electrical%7CPA%20Performance&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&T5_Var3=blue&T5_Var4=95303&intl=0&utm_campaign=AMM+Mustang+Brands+Medium&gclid=CIn7zNuu6NoCFTiSxQIdc98INw&gclsrc=ds

But all that is available now it seems are the 130A larger body versions like this for almost half the price:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8876432&cc=1354722&jsn=445

The 130 will fit and work. But when using a 1v pulley with one of those it's extremely important to maintain a 2:1 pulley ratio or less. I've used these guys for pulleys at work b/c 17mm bore alternator pulleys are the standard balmar and many other marine alternators use. Measure your crank pulley and divide it by 2 and buy the closest match, if using a 1v with a 130A I'd err on the side of larger as long as you are still close to 2:1, with the 90A I'd err on the side of as close as possible but smaller.

https://store.alternatorparts.com/3g-pulley.aspx

Summit and the like also have pulleys if you can't find exactly what you need there. The main thing is 17mm bore. You may or may not have to shim it with a 17mm washer thick or thin to get alignment.

You'll also need 2 wiring pigtails. 1 for the regulator connection and one for the stator connection.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=935545&cc=1354722&jsn=553
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-14290C/94-04-Mustang-Stator-Plug

That stator plug can be found cheaper. Also all of this and a 90amp alternator can be had dirt cheap at the junkyard from a suitable donor. 94-00 V6 mustangs and late 90's non dohc taurus's are at least 2 places you can find all this stuff. It has to have a 7" pivot mount center to center, holes clocked @ 12 and 6. The 90A units have smaller diameter bodies and 4 holes in between the 3 spokes on the face the 130A units have 2 holes there.

For wiring, you'll want to replace the charging wire that goes from the alternator to the starter with at least a 4 gauge wire. You'll take the wire that comes from the lamp in the instrument panel to the old regulator, add wire to it and connect it to the green wire from the new regulator plug. The white wire from that plug will connect directly to the stator connector wire and the other yellow one can be connected to B+ on the back of the alternator. Those 3 wires are "I" excite, which turns on the alternator via the dash lamp; "S" which connects to the stator, it's the 'field' wire which tells the alternator how many amps to generate at any given time; and "A" (i don't know why they label it that way) is your voltage sensing wiring.

This diagram makes it all very clear but there's absolutely no reason to take the sensing wire to the solenoid, instead connect it directly to the B+ on the back of the alternator:



And you don't really need that Mega fuse, but it's recommended. Don't go 175 though. Use whatever your wire from the alternator to the starter is rated for. And make sure the wire from the starter to the solenoid and battery is at least as big. If you go with the 90 use #4 wire, if you go with the 130 use at least #4 wire, all the way.

Btw if you want to talk to someone who knows all about this conversion call Vic. His # is eight 1 ate, tree tre five, 3 zero 33. You can call me as as well at 3 six o ate for o for ate 7 6

Thank you for the info, I will give you a call, much easier to talk. This weekend.