by jdlaugh Sat Aug 19, 2017 2:33 pmI’ve long wanted to adapt the modern, higher flowing EFI manifolds for my 240 engine, but the front manifold sticks out too far and I didn’t want to modify the doghouse or floor. Fellow Econoliner Terrance Kritzberg kindly mentioned in a recent Facebook post that two rear manifolds might work with modification. And, he was right.
I had to do a little cutting and brazed on a flange, but it was a fairly simple project and the fit is good. I’ve only bolted on the front so far, but the rear manifold should be even easier. There is plenty of clearance.
The downpipe from the front manifold could go over the top of the motor mount and cross member with a really sharp bend, or drop straight down and then 90 under the cross member.
I think this setup will flow dramatically better than the old log manifold, and will be a great complement to my custom TBI setup. Cost for the two rear manifolds was just over $50 from my local salvage.
Here are some pics. I had to make 3 cuts, marked in red, and grind down one tab to the right height for the mounting bolts, then finally braze on the flange.
Looks clean with plenty of room to clear the doghouse. I think this will be easy to wrap with header wrap or a heat shield and should dramatically reduce heat in the doghouse.
Required cuts marked in red. Note the upper left must leave a tab for the mounting bolt similar to the one in the center.
For some reason one of the bolts on the back manifold is in the center instead of on the edge, so the flange must be trimmed and profiled.
The cutoff tab needed to be profiled to match the one in the center.
I had to remove about an 1/8th of material with a dremel.
The final step was brazing on a flange. I used standard bronze flux-coated rod with an oxy/acetylene torch. This is my only area of concern -- will the braze job hold. It's not carrying a load or under much stress, but some have warned the extreme heat of the manifold may weaken the brass braze over time and lead to failure. If it fails, I'll clean up the area and try stick welding.
I had to do a little cutting and brazed on a flange, but it was a fairly simple project and the fit is good. I’ve only bolted on the front so far, but the rear manifold should be even easier. There is plenty of clearance.
The downpipe from the front manifold could go over the top of the motor mount and cross member with a really sharp bend, or drop straight down and then 90 under the cross member.
I think this setup will flow dramatically better than the old log manifold, and will be a great complement to my custom TBI setup. Cost for the two rear manifolds was just over $50 from my local salvage.
Here are some pics. I had to make 3 cuts, marked in red, and grind down one tab to the right height for the mounting bolts, then finally braze on the flange.
Looks clean with plenty of room to clear the doghouse. I think this will be easy to wrap with header wrap or a heat shield and should dramatically reduce heat in the doghouse.
Required cuts marked in red. Note the upper left must leave a tab for the mounting bolt similar to the one in the center.
For some reason one of the bolts on the back manifold is in the center instead of on the edge, so the flange must be trimmed and profiled.
The cutoff tab needed to be profiled to match the one in the center.
I had to remove about an 1/8th of material with a dremel.
The final step was brazing on a flange. I used standard bronze flux-coated rod with an oxy/acetylene torch. This is my only area of concern -- will the braze job hold. It's not carrying a load or under much stress, but some have warned the extreme heat of the manifold may weaken the brass braze over time and lead to failure. If it fails, I'll clean up the area and try stick welding.
Last edited by jdlaugh on Sun Aug 20, 2017 1:14 pm; edited 2 times in total
