D&D Brakes

Anyone know what's up with Tanner at D&D Brakes? I'm trying to buy his disc conversion kit, but he's not replying to emails or voicemails, and his site has the following messages:

"NEW PRODUCTS SHOULD BE AVAIBLE LATE OCTOBER."
"NEW PARTS ARE COMING SOON!!!! PLEASE CHECK BACK IN A FEW WEEKS."

http://dddiscbrakes.com/kits.html

I know there are cheaper ways to go, but I like that his kit is complete. I haven't found another kit on the web that compares to his.

That's strange I just called him with no problem, maybe you should try again. I called him at 541-729-2337

horseman wrote:That's strange I just called him with no problem, maybe you should try again. I called him at 541-729-2337

He finally got back to me and I bought a kit.

nwguy wrote:

horseman wrote:That's strange I just called him with no problem, maybe you should try again. I called him at 541-729-2337

He finally got back to me and I bought a kit.

Is there a wait, or are the full kits in stock?

He told me:

"We are still shipping kits but currently am waiting on an order of brackets from the local metal fab shop."

I think it's a flawed design using the jeep rotors. They're to deep and there are better options. Using late 80's Dodge Dakota rotors will clear most rims and may clear the sway bar links. Using early 90's Dodge Intrepid or redrilled(easy to find cheap) 79 T/A rotors will give you a bigger rotor that needs little to no spacer between the knuckle and caliper brackets and definitely won't interfere with anything other than the wrong rim. And even with the D & D kit you shouldn't use their recommended brake line. Use an early-mid 80's monte carlo line, it's a much better fit. Also, I can't imagine pressing/forcing the recommended wheel studs in. Anything over .003-5" more than the bore of the oem holes will deform the face of the hub. Ask me how I know

I turned mine twice. Don't believe the issued spec's on knurl size either. I found one good candidate that measured .004" larger; every one I could find .004" better than dorman's spec, for that stud. Others were fine, or right there enough. Other part #'s, i.e. different studs. I can't remember now what those d&d studs are, but I have a box and they are at least .010" larger than oem.

Ok, I looked and measured those turds again. Dorman #610-169 spec says .620"( to big already), but my helios calipers say .624-6" and the oem hole we are jamming this thing into is .612" iirc. Math says .012-4" bigger than the hubs hole. It will deform badly when you jam that in there. I had problems with less than half again over. Also seems like it may interfere or stake the rotor with that 610-169 stud.  There are two factors in rotor balance. The face is the important one, radial is not as important. I strived for both, but the linear balance is the critical one. Longer on one end of the stroke is not good but won't tend to create the harmonics of imbalance like wobbling on the face of the hub, or so I'm told.













Btw, I have a 10 box of doman 610-169 studs and a pair of jeep rotors for a d and d conversion I will give to anyone for nothing or will ship for the cost of shipping. I also have a set of the recommended brake lines, free! any takers? I might be able to cram it into a couple of 'one rate' boxes for ~$30 to your door

Seth, pm'd you

Hell, now I am concerned about installing a D&D kit.....

Hey, don't let me poo poo a d & d install. It just wasn't for me. Countless van's have been converted using their kit and all seem to be pleased with the results. But do take my advise on the hoses and be real careful with the studs you use. I might have had a few local ipa's with a friend beforehand and you know, alcohol and posting...

I don't want to hijack this thread, but. . .
Seth,
How about a disc brake conversion (according to Seth) thread? Between what you posted here and your build thread you already have a lot. I'm sure the rest of it is floating around in your noggin. I liked your use of the power master cylinder. I'm hoping brake rennovation isn't too far down the road for me(I'll have to spend more time in the shop though!). I have most of my parts already bought, but I'm always looking for a better way.
Jim

Seth G wrote:Hey, don't let me poo poo a d & d install. It just wasn't for me. Countless van's have been converted using their kit and all seem to be pleased with the results. But do take my advise on the hoses and be real careful with the studs you use. I might have had a few local ipa's with a friend beforehand and you know, alcohol and posting...

So you wouldn't use the studs supplied with his kit?

I think what we're all getting to is that we'd like Seth to fill us in on correct Stud sizes and where to purchase them and any other master cylinder details, brake lines and hoses, etc... that would be helpful in converting over to Disc Brakes since this is a concern for any of us who don't have a 1967 that came with dual master. We want to pic your brain not under the influence of IPA's (or under the influence if that helps!)

Johnny-5 need more INPUT!

I just had a detailed post almost done and my thumb hit this idiotic "back" button on the side of my mouse and it evaporated. It's time for dinner

Sorry, I'll try again tomorrow. What a pain, frustrating. It's not the first time, but this is the straw so to speak that is going to drive me to pull this mouse open and cut and seal one of the wires going to that button. Or otherwise disable it. In that I am pleased, or will be.

head->wall

Seth G wrote:I just had a detailed post almost done and my thumb hit this idiotic "back" button on the side of my mouse and it evaporated. It's time for dinner

Sorry, I'll try again tomorrow. What a pain, frustrating. It's not the first time, but this is the straw so to speak that is going to drive me to pull this mouse open and cut and seal one of the wires going to that button. Or otherwise disable it. In that I am pleased, or will be.

head->wall

You might compose lengthy posts in a text editor like notepad or MS Word, then copy and paste the post into this forum when you're done. I've done what you did. Frustrating indeed.

nwguy wrote:

Seth G wrote:I just had a detailed post almost done and my thumb hit this idiotic "back" button on the side of my mouse and it evaporated. It's time for dinner

Sorry, I'll try again tomorrow. What a pain, frustrating. It's not the first time, but this is the straw so to speak that is going to drive me to pull this mouse open and cut and seal one of the wires going to that button. Or otherwise disable it. In that I am pleased, or will be.

head->wall

You might compose lengthy posts in a text editor like notepad or MS Word, then copy and paste the post into this forum when you're done. I've done what you did. Frustrating indeed.

Or . . .  You might take the mouse, put it in your skeet thrower and yell pull!!!!  Just an old fashioned southern man way of dealing with frustration. Did I forget to mention that you're holding a loaded shotgun?
Jim