I've got another question, wc mirror hardware

Apparently I've lost part of the mounting hardware for my west coast mirrors. I have the 1/4-28" t-bolts for the top mirror mount. But I've lost what was in the doors under the windows and I don't remember if it was t-bolts or something else. I seem to remember there being 2 studs welded or crimped to a thin steel plate. Can anyone tell me what the stock, lower door mount fasteners were for the west coast mirrors?

Thanks,
Seth

Seth,,,  I have at least two dozen mirrors OR MORE here as started collecting them a long time ago. All FORD and also FOMOCO. Also, many of the vintage wind wings for them.  BTW,,, they polish up extra nice as in the ones in the pics.   I have seen and still have a large box full of mounts of all kinds, however,, back to some ancient posts,,,,, LOL 
  The "THIN METAL WASHERS" are actually drilled and tempered metal. Stainless material for the full Fomoco units and metal for the metal mirrors.
  THEY DONT STAND UP, BREAK AND I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY REPLACEMENTS for over ten years now. Regardless,,, I DONT USE THEM,,, LOL,,, not yelling, just saying,,,,
  The original mirrors were not at a 90 degree to the floor of the truck and here is a mod that I have been using for many years..
 I took a level and put it on the dash of the truck and leveled the truck exactly from left to right so that I had something to measure from that was equal. Then I used a level on the vertical bars and found that they are actually 1 1/2"s out of level vertically. Its been many years so that may not be exact or correct but still my point......
  On the top of the mirror post there are two rivets (actually the locators that index in the tempered washer) the idea being that you can move the mirror arms to retract them, however they forgot the fact that the lower bolt is tight and fights the movement. Those thin locating washers are tempered and are ALWAYS BROKEN. In over twenty years I have exactly ONE that isnt!!!
  SO, my soloution is this,,, remove the two locating rivets in the top and cut the end off just outside the bolt hole. Now re drill a new hole in the other rivet location. This moves the upper part of the arm inwards the exact amount for the mirror arms to now sit exactly plumb vertically.....
  DONT USE HOME DEPOT acorn nuts,, THEY RUST....(the rusty ones in the picture) I have a surplus source here that sells full stainless acorns that are colored black by the lb. It polishes off very easy and the nuts are high quality stainless that WILL NOT RUST. GOOD QUALITY acorns are about $2 each!!!  times twenty pieces,,,, as in OUCH!!!
 Also, I bend the tabs so that they lay flat and straight outwards. Also,,, I use brass toilet seat bolts for the upper studs as they sit right under the door gasket and work perfectly. the pictures of the mirrors are over ten years old and have never been touched since I polished them!!!!!
VicSoCal

Thanks for the help Vic. I've got a nos stainless 2nd gen mirror and noticed it wasn't plumb. It looked like that outside rivet hole may be in the right spot. I'm going to do like you said, I'll post a pic. I have 2 mirrors, but only one stainless, it's "ford". I need another stainless one with the wind breaker thing. The painted one I have is the same style with the wind deflector nos, but "fomoco". Maybe we could work out a trade? I need a stainless bracket, bottom(old) style for the top of the one I have as well.

I know what you mean about cheap stainless or 'chromed' acorn nuts and so on. It rusts. I can get good boat hardware at work thankfully

I was thinking about taking a piece of like 18 or 16 ga stainless, smoothing the edges on it and drilling and tig welding 1/4-28 stainless studs into it for the lower door mount.

Respectfully,,, I have two dozen mirror sets or more in stock as I purposely looked for them LONG BEFORE they were not around anymore. I passed up many, many painted versions as not worth my tying up moneys for no return.  As a fellow Econohead interested in helping but not really interested in trading,,,  It seems that I have very little time for myself anymore let alone the time to go through them and cherry pick--> pack it and take it to UPS so on for a trade???  Nothing personnel and hope you understand that. Usually I sell them in pairs for $125 but  I WILL send you one of the one that you need  along with the matching bracket(s) that you need. I have probably 50 or more brackets as I also scrounged those off of the pickup versions when I was able to find them as I knew they would also disappear in the future. Also all of the wind breakers when I saw them. Even those are almost impossible to find in perfect ten condition and almost impossible to work out the tinniest little nick and re polish to perfect in anything less than that. 
 I can also send you some of the anodized black acorns if you like for whatever it costs me for the batch..  I think to double them up as I did there were about 20 of them,, dont remember at the moment...  If I spend the time to ship I might as well make it count for you,,,
PM me as much easier if you like... Stainless is not the easiest thing to work and if I can send you some brackets that surely is a lot easier I would think? Its been a while but seem to recall using thin nylon plastic to make the bushings for the mounts,,its pretty thin but needed to keep them tight,, forgot buy maybe it was a milk jug?? You can use stainless bolts from the inside of the door leaving the stud on the outside to bolt to for the lower brackets,, much less involved and works just fine....
Vic

That makes sense Vic, the stainless is the way to go. Thanks for the help. I'll PM you later today.

I use a SS "Elevator Bolt". It has a square shoulder like a carriage bolt, w/a lg. flat head. I grind down the head to a t-bolt style for the top mounts.
Works well replacing the carriage bolt at the upper steering col. mount too.
Check out the " Bolt Depot " https://www.boltdepot.com/ . large selection, little on the pricey side.