Looks good! Drives like a moped! Now what? Your oppinion.

Quick recap.

Drove to South Dakota, bought this 66 G10 van, bought killer rims and tires from a VV member, and now its in storage waiting for an engine plan.

Here's an image:



There is some body work and interior work I have plans for, but before I even touch that stuff, I really want it to drive well. So my priority is to focus on the performance end of things first.

As it is, it's a straight 6, (I think it's a 250), and it tops out on the highway at 110 kph, (that's like 65mph). I find the three speed sloppy, and gutless, and the brakes are a battle.

So my question to all you members who have been here probably several times, if I'm not planning to be a slave to 'original' parts on this ride, what should I do to this van. Here's my criteria:

I want it to perform at least as well as a GMC safari as far as acceleration, top speed. Can I get that with the 250?

Can I just rebuild my existing 6 - 250? Or am I looking at a new engine altogether?

Is performance in a new engine, or just a different tranny?

If there's no way to make the 3 on the tree gear shifting any more effective, can I go auto without a second morgage?

With my new found fear of losing my legs from a fender bender, I need better brakes. Discs the only way?

Bottom line is, as everyone has there own taste with respect to the miriad of mod options, is there a basic 'standard' package of modifications that most van enthusiasts would agree upon as the minimum to bring this old beast up to standards for performance with todays' mid class van's?

Its just going to sit in my buddies garage until I figure this out. Throw me a bone. I just need a plan.

Heavy

Well you got me wondering to and I like looking up specs, this is from what i read, the 250 (150hp) is about 40hp short of the vortec V6 (190hp), the safari runs a 4 speed auto so you have lower gears to get it moving quicker and an overdrive to run highway, and the rear end might be the same , sounds like the safari runs a 3:73, have to check the ratio in the 66 to see where your at there. I'd bet good money a few of these guys here know how to tweak a 250 for the extra hp. And there are plenty of posts on the transmission swaps, I dont think anyone would disagree that going with front discs is a great idea. Good luck with it , it looks like you have a great van to work with.

I came across a book dedicated to boosting L6 motors. At home I have a copy I got from Amazon, Chevrolet Inline Six Cylinder Power Manual by Leo Santucciso. Also check out CliffordPerformance.net, they have intakes for the 250 that are hipo. Google the topic and a lot of sites are there discussing this. I could imagine between a trans and a boost to the L6 250 a screamer might emerge.

Here's the book. I have it and it's got some great ideas in it. And some killer mods as well!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Truck-GMC-250-292-Engine-Inline-6-Power-Manual_W0QQitemZ390045589798QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Manuals_Literature?hash=item5ad0876126&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

My 64 has a 250 L6, 350 TH trans and 3.36 gears. When I'm not loaded down (rare occasion) acceleration is great. The 1bbl carb leaves a little to be desired. Top speed?? I dunno?? The flat windshield flexes inward noticeably at about 90MPH. If you've driven yours 65 and hit a 35MPH headwind or passed a semi head-on you know what I mean.

Leo's 1000HP 292 would be a wild powerplant in an early!

If I remember right, Optik has a hot little L6 in his early. Mike is running a hopped up 200 in Vanishing Breed. Sixes can be great, manual or auto.

As it has been said, at the very least, upgrade to a dual master cylinder. I went all the way because I could, I wanted to see how far I could go with it and I needed something that is easier on my knee (power brakes).

If you go very far with the brakes you'll soon have more money there than what you have in your engine/trans. "It doesn't matter how fast it goes if you can't stop is safely" - Dad

Wow, did I say all that, I must be tired (or buzzed)

If it is a cruiser/daily driver, my vote is a mild 350 chevy with a 200r4 tranny. You can get a goodwrench engine with 300 ft lbs, 250hp for about $1600. Install it with a 2nd gen doghouse and radiator swap. If you can't find a 1st gen auto column, you can adapt the 3 on the tree shifter to work with the 4 speed auto. The result will be clean, simple proven SBC power and reliability with an overdrive for economic highway operation.

The 200r4 is shorter than the 700r4 and fits better in our vans. When used with 3.73 gears, the gear ratios are a little better on the 200r4 also.

The above is my plan for my 1st gen... along with front disc brakes.

This is what I'm talkin about..

Thanks for that.

My friend is suggesting I put a regular stock safari engine and tranny in it, (I think he meant a relatively newish one that has fuel injection), so I get enough power, and parts would be cheap and easy to find.

Is that anything like what your saying and or achieveable as a refit ?

Heavy Pants wrote:This is what I'm talkin about..

Thanks for that.

My friend is suggesting I put a regular stock safari engine and tranny in it, (I think he meant a relatively newish one that has fuel injection), so I get enough power, and parts would be cheap and easy to find.

Is that anything like what your saying and or achieveable as a refit ?

ummm, that would be a huge PITA swap. Why would you want to go to all that trouble for just a v6 from an Astro?? If you are going to go to all the trouble to swap in a modern injected engine, install an LS series v8 engine from a late model corvette/camaro or chevy truck. These engines are becoming affordable in the salvage market since they are now 10 years old... and its the hot engine swap in all the musclecar mags... 300+ hp stock, and potential for nearly 400hp with just a cam swap and a proper tune.

Me personally, I would keep it simple with a carb'd 350. MUCH easier to work on, much cheaper and no problem getting parts anywhere. The goodwrench engine I am talking about is available new from the Chevrolet parts dealer and it comes with a really good warranty too. that is the base $1600 model that makes 250hp/300ft-lbs. We just installed that very engine in my buddy's '72 Chevelle and it kicks ass. If you want more power, they have plenty of options... all the engines are new and warrantied by GM. If you stick with the tried and true smallblock v8, there are plenty of fuel injection options if you want to go that route later... the most popular is a tuned port system from a mid-late 80's corvette or camaro.


Gorgeous Van, BTW!!!

So this is the plan.

350 with a 200r4 tranny, auto, front disc brakes and a sic duel exhaust piped out by the rear tires.

Thanks

Sounds like a good plan.

Depending on cost and your needs ya the 350 would be the biggst bang for your buck,they are reliable and easy to work on, Next yes an overdrive trans would be nice but to keep it even less exspensive a basic turbo 350 if your gear ratio is ok will do everythig you need. Bill

Heavy Pants wrote:So this is the plan.

350 with a 200r4 tranny, auto, front disc brakes and a sic duel exhaust piped out by the rear tires.

Thanks

Awesome. I think you have a great plan. Whether you buy a new Goodwrench engine, or get a deal on a good running complete mill out of the paper or off craig's list, you cannot go wrong with a smallblock chevy v8.

The above is my same plan for my van... I'm planning to run chrome side pipes for that ultra cool vintage custom van look. Not sure what rear gears you have, but my van has a 12 bolt with 3.73's... so an overdrive tranny is the perfect choice. For your exhaust, I recommend either 'ram-horn' style exhaust manifolds or 'block hugger' streetrod style headers. With the 200r4 trans, make sure you get a good quality rebuilt unit. Don't try to run a non-rebuilt used transmission as they were weak in stock form. A quality rebuild should have heavy duty Grand National type parts, better pump, upgraded bands, billet servo, etc. Also when you install it make sure your TV cable is properly adjusted. I know this is a biggie with both the 700r and the 200r. An improperly adjusted TV cable will wear out the transmission quickly. Also add a good oil cooler for the transmission. With the transmission properly adjusted and kept cool with a good oil cooler, it should enjoy a long and happy life in your van.

BILLS66 wrote:Depending on cost and your needs ya the 350 would be the biggst bang for your buck,they are reliable and easy to work on, Next yes an overdrive trans would be nice but to keep it even less exspensive a basic turbo 350 if your gear ratio is ok will do everythig you need. Bill

Bill is right, if you have 3.23 or 3.08 gears in the rear, you can get by with a th350. Less expense and simpler install than the 200r4. A th350 is a great transmission also... the industry standard chevy 3 speed automatic: reliable and affordable, but no overdrive.

If you've got lower gears, or plan to do much highway cruising, then you kind of need the OD. In my opinion, if you are going to the trouble and expense to perform the swap to an automatic... its worth the extra approximate money for a 200r4. You will get better fuel economy with the overdrive so you'll save the equivalent of your extra initial cost in gas, and also your engine will last longer with keeping the revs lower at highway speeds.

Wicked. My buddy is going to help me with any welding, so I will save some doe there. So if I do all that, (350, tranny with OD, disc brakes), can I do it for under $4000?

After tax $4500 is all I have left for this project.

Hoping to have at least part of a summer left after all this.

Thanks again.

Heavy

Heavy Pants wrote:Wicked. My buddy is going to help me with any welding, so I will save some doe there. So if I do all that, (350, tranny with OD, disc brakes), can I do it for under $4000?

After tax $4500 is all I have left for this project.

Hoping to have at least part of a summer left after all this.

Thanks again.

Heavy

Yes, assuming you will do the install work yourself, I think you can stay under that budget and do a really nice job. I'm not sure about the total cost for the disc brake conversion, but some other members have already done it, so hopefully they will chine in on that. The nice thing about a 350 chevy is most of the parts can be found for cheap. A new goodwrench engine is a great deal at $1600 and you'll get that wonderful warranty... or you might get lucky find a deal on a good used engine. If you go for the goodwrench engine, you can score the other needed parts (intake, carb, air cleaner, distributor, exhaust manifolds, pulleys, alt brackets, flexplate, harmonic damper) cheap off ebay.

The key will be to find a 2nd gen doghouse to weld into your van. If you can find a 2nd gen parts van, then also get the front floor tunnel, wide crossflow radiator, the radiator supports, the coolant tank, and (if you can find it) the v8 throttle linkage. Some guys are using a throttle cable instead of the factory linkage with good results. The 200-4r will run you about a grand with shipping if you buy it off ebay. There are a couple transmission builders selling on ebay, also you might contact a well respected local transmission shop and see if they can build you one (make sure to ask them for all the good performance rebuild parts).

You can contact me kookykrispy@yahoo.com and I am happy to give advice. I'm not a pro, but I've been into hot rodding and early vans for a long time. Its my favorite subject to chat about.

Hey kookykrispy,

Here's a question. Where would I get a 'new' drag link for my 66 G?I have spoken to everyone, the last source being rare parts in California. Even they said they don't have it. They said they could build it for me if I gave them all the specs, but that sounds expensive. Doesn't any after market parts company make this thing?

I would try a 4X4 place??? Probably still won't be cheep??? Whats wrong with yours??

It's apparently too loose to pass safety. I assume there are worn out bushings.

What those guys said... honestly, I haven't been into the suspension on these enough to give a better answer than what has already been mentioned here before.

The steering box may have play in it... There is a lock-nut with a place for a slotted screwdriver inside on the box and you can adjust it to tighten it up some extent if that is where the play in the steering is. Also those tie rod ends may be wearing out, so put your van up on some jackstands, get under there and locate exactly where the slop is and then you can go from there to replace the worn out parts and eliminate it.

This is according to my mechanic. He said I need a new drag link, ( which he called a steering bar), and because one of my tie rods is bent I need to replace both left and right. So that's according to him in order for him to pass it for safety, so I'm assuming he has explored the adjustments possible.

donivan65 wrote:,,,so he decides what needs to be fixed and how much you have to pay him to fix it so he can pass it????????

Yeah, pretty much. They have a pretty extensive check list, but I would imagine they always find a few things to make some money on. This is the downside of importing the vans into Canada...It would be nice to have a authorized mechanic as a friend for the inspection.

Actually, he specializes in audi and volkwagon but he's always done my safari work because it's easy. He actually didn't want to touch this van with a ten foot pole, and suggested I find a smaller shop in a small town north of Toronto to get a better rate for any work. So he's cool. When I was talking about having different size wheels on front and back, he said that wouldn't pass safety but he'd pass me anyways and if it ever came up he'd just say those weren't the wheels on the van when he passed it.

So he's cool. He does great work and he explains all my problem down to material science and physics which I love. Smart guy. I trust him . I have to assume my drag link is screwed.