Major upgrades

The make a 22 gal '70 mustang efi tank, but it's $235, by the time you add the pump and sending unit it's close to $500.

Dangit that looks like it would have been the way to go. Unfortunately im pretty deep $$$ and time into the tank I have. Do you kow Is that high flow high psi EFI fuel pump OEM? Can I get it at NAPA? Lol if so it might be worth the do over?

They make the pump bodies and use walbro pumps on them. The same guys make these pumps for retrofitting into regular tanks:

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm

What kind of fuel injection are you planning to run?

I haven't decided on the management system yet, and am all ears. I'm most impressed with Holley and a smaller company called fuel tech. Anyone heard of fuel tech or used them? Sorry if this is a dumb question but are walboro pumps OE? I like those tank Inc ones too are the using OE pumps?

It's a USA mfr. I don't know much about efi but I'm interested and plan on converting my van to TBI. I was wondering what type of system you are going to use, ie throttle body or multiport injection? TBI doesn't need alot pressure unlike multiport. You can buy walbro pumps and parts. If you're crafty enough you could build you're own in tank pump setup a lot cheaper than buying one.

https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gss-fuel-pumps

I'm going to go full sequential multiport. I want a lot of torque at a relatively low rpm. Haha I know I was just sitting here trying to figure out how to baffle the stock mustang sending unit without slicing and dicing the tank all up?

Figuring out Engine Management is key to any fuel injection project. And it can be some large $$ not to mention a major learning experience. I went with MegaSquirt, but there are other systems out there. Affordable Fuel Injection offers a TBI kit specifically for the Ford 240 -- but it's for "stock or lightly modified" engines. However, I read somewhere they can re-program their computers for boosted applications. I don't have any experience with the company or its products. Link to AFI TBI

That is a pretty cool looking kit I will give them a call for sure. Yeah I have budgeted in quite a bit for the EFI system other than the motor it is going to be the most expensive part of this project. Then header then turbo lol.

There's a guy on fordsix forums converting his 90's 300 f-150 to megasquirt control and documenting it. That may be useful. Are you using the oem 300 mpi setup and modifying it or building something custom? My f150 is stock 300 mpi, if the computer ever dies I may go that route. The big problem with 240 mpi in our vans with the 300 stock set up is the size of the whole intake assembly I think. It don't fit. A modified oem mpi intake with the throttle body on the passengers side may work. Its gonna be tight no matter which way you go tho. Anyway, it's the nature of these old rigs

Nice I think I've seen his thread I'm a member over there too and have been getting tons of advice on this build from those guys. They are very knowledgeable and very helpful. Do you mean it won't fit into the dog house? My plan is to cut the lower half of a stock EFI intake manifold and then weld on a pipe plenum style. Something like this made out of the second pic.

Yeah, in the doghouse. You may have to shorten the length of the runners to get it inside.

Oh yeah they need to be shortened big time. I'm trying to find find a fuel rail and nail down the injectors I'm going to be using. Im worried that the fuel rail will cause a clearance issue with the plenum due to the amount of cut down on the runners needed to fit in the dog house? Don't know.... it's going to interesting lol. Don't worry my major goal for this project right after tons of torque is to not modify the dog house. It's going to be a miracle if I pull all of this off with a stock looking dog house.

You cannn do it! It looks like it could be easily chopped off and have a flange welded to it. Do the runners connect through that middle part? Put a box on the stubs and mount the oem throttle body on it, ala jd. Maybe at the end of a duct from the box, low profile, to the other side of the engine. Like factory, with fresh air duct and remote filter somewhere in the fresh air. Compact but sufficient lol

Yeah the runners are connected in the middle gonna try to cut it almost to that part that connects them. Put a box on the studs and mount the throttle to it? Lol I'd love to understand can you maybe draw a pic. My plan was weld flanges on to the six runners or weld a plenum right to all six runners. The front of the plenum would then have a throttle body on it. I think it would be cool to try to hook the throttle body to the stock Econoline throttle cable.

What do you think can I cut it all the way to where I'm pointing pretty much all the way up to that support that connects them? Then do I weld on flanges or weld each runner straight to plenum?

You have about 7.5 inches from the head to the side of the doghouse. If you figure 4 inches for the injectors and fuel rail assembly, that leaves room for a plenum 3 inches thick. I haven't measure the injector/rail combo, but that would be good first step to see how much room they would need.

Flanges would need a gasket. But if you had flanges, you could make a mild steel plenum and bolt it on. Maybe more flexible in design that way.

One other alternative to consider: A guy on ebay sells intake flanges for the 240/300 engines. You could build an intake from scratch using mild steel, mandrel bent tubing. That's what I did when I built the simple log manifold for my TBI setup.
ebay intake flanges

Yeah I'm trying to find a fuel rail and injectors now. I found some tiny injectors that should make it possible if I cut it to where I'm pointing. Yeah I think I'm going to shoot for welding it on. I'm looking for durability I kinda rally the old girl!!!! Lol I'm no engineer but I think that welding it all together will be the strongest right? I talked to some pros so correct me if I'm wrong but they say that injector location is kinda important. They said I should try to use the stock part of the manifold so I get the stock injector location that the Ford engineers liked the best. If the manifold causes problems I will definitely be looking into totally custom.

Finally made some steering progress. I mocked up my new pitman arm, and am going to send it to rare parts. They will send me a chrome olley heat treated powder coated one back oh yeah baby!!


The top part/splined hole fits a late 1960s Chevy pick-up Saginaw steering box. The bottom part/smaller hole is off of a Chevy Blazer, and fits a ES2027 tie rod end that I made a drag with. Pretty excited I really hope this fixes my steering slop/play!?!?!?!

Turbo showed up today!!!! Woooo hooooo still waiting on custom pistons though.....😫


And my van official has no front floor kinda scary!!!!

I need some advice. I've pretty much cut out my entire front floor except this little lip that wraps around the front of wheel well.



I don't know if I should leave the lip to weld the new floors to. The stock floor had a lip folded downward that is welded to the wheel well. Do I leave that part of the old floor and put the new floors on top of that lip? Or do I get rid the lip and just butt the new floors up against the wheel well and weld it? Or do I weld a downward lip on the new floor boards so that it is more like factory? Any ideas are always welcome.

It really cropped my pics a lot. It's the lip I'm pointing at in the second pic.

If that little lip was below the floor pan, leave it and set the new over it. Drill some holes in the new floor pan and plug weld it onto that lip. If you're proficient enough to run a bead, you can always run a complete bead around the wheel hump to attach the floor to it also. Try and get it as close to the original design as you can. They engineered it that way for a reason.

Thanks for your advice wolfster. That lip is part of the old floor I just left it thinking I might want to plug weld to it like you were saying. I think I'm going to cut it off and weld a down lip on the new floor boards. That will keep it almost identical to the stock set up. Does anyone know where to get or a number for something similar to the little round seal that goes around the windshield wiper

Where it comes out of the body. I know MACs used to have them but they don't seem to have them anymore?

So get this I get everything steering wise on my van put together. I have a custom chrome Olly drag link, custom milled and hardened pitman arm, a plate heavily tack welded in with a 1960s Chevy saginaw steering box bolted to it. Then a custom shaft connecting the input of the steering box to my steering wheel all inside of my stock steering column. We jack up the front of the van to test the full range before we weld it all the way in and I have a Wonka van. The steering wheel turns right And the tires go left, vis versa. The company I got my box from messed up and didn't reverse it don't worry it's all fixable and I should have a new box, the same kind but that turns the opposite way as the one I have now this week. I still need to cut and adjust the clutch pedal and hook up the shifters which we will be doing tomorrow. As soon as the new box shows up I'll be pushing her around the parking lot to lest the steering. I'm pretty excited to drive it once the motor is done. even though it's backwards the new box still feels super tight compared to the one I had in there. And the new floor boards are tacked in.