G Van Swaybar

well to begin with, the dual line master cylinder is the problem,,,,,,,on our 1st Gens, we have a shorter single line master cylinder tucked up into the frame, so a straight bar sway bar just bolts to the frame, clearing the master cylinder,,,,,however when we put a dual line master cylinder on it,,it hits that sway bar,,,,,,but 2nd Gens come with dual line master cylinders and they put a loop in the sway bar to clear that master cylinder,,,,,,so you can be factory,,,,,,if you wanted to use a 1st Gen sway bar on a !st Gen and you put a dual line master cylinder on it,,,,you can use a 2nd Gen sway bar or put some 2" blocks on it to move it away from the frame to clear that dual master cylinder,,,,,,

let me know if your van aint set up to mount these bushings on the frame,,,,,,

After marking and drilling holes for the bushings, I bent a piece of threaded rod and stuck it up, over and down through those holes and mounted the bushings to the frame,,,,,on Jackes radiator crossmember, I welded 2 bolts to a plate then pulled it down into the holes with a wire,,,,,through either  from the end of the frame or a hole in it,,,,,

donivan65 wrote:After marking and drilling holes for the bushings, I bent a piece of threaded rod and stuck it up, over and down through those holes and mounted the bushings to the frame,,,,,on Jackes radiator crossmember, I welded 2 bolts to a plate then pulled it down into the holes with a wire,,,,,through either  from the end of the frame or a hole in it,,,,,

A lot of trailer hitch kits for jeeps, pickups, etc. come with bolts attached to long thin metal straps that you feed through the oval openings in the side of the frame to reach the mounting holes, just like you did! This is also handy for bumper brackets and other mounts to any box channel frames or other hard to reach spots.  My Jeep side step kit came with the similar U-bolts to mount them to the bottom of the frame....Our hands and fingers weren't designed to go everywhere as hard as we may try! LOL

My brackets hit the calipers so I just made new ones that moved them over about an inch. Pics are somewhere in the disk brake conversion discussion.

Hello Scott:  Which disc brakes do you have?

The fix is simpler than that

you put the calipers forward to clear the shocks, otherwise you have to move the shocks.

for the sway bar you swap the lower axle brackets to the opposite side , cut a bit of them off with a hack saw and they work great .

look at post 6 and 7 of the linked thread. its all there

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t42615-m1d-disc-brake-3-technical-updates-july-2014?highlight=disc+brake


M1D

Scott

You  might be right, they do seem to look as you say. Funny there must be other brackets out there also because some people have reported to me "No interference problems at all".

Start by switching the axle brackets left for right so it mounts the link directly over-top the axle like mine is. See what you have and take it from there.

This is a good example of what I have told many people about my disc brake conversion. " no two vans are completely alike". there are soo many differences there simply cannot be a "One Kit fits all". Which is also why the question "how much to convert my van" can never be answered.


M1D

Hey Scott had a van dream last night. Here is what came to me in the dream. Its just a "what if" thing.

The axle has the (steering stop bumps that capture the sway bar bracket) on both sides of the axle.

What if you put the sway bar axle brackets in between the shock and the axle on the shock side and use the appropriate bracket that places the sway bar link bolt directly over top the axle like mine is?

Yes that will angle the shock slightly but the sway bar link should be relatively straight. (a little angler on either shouldn't bother anything). But it may cause clearance of the caliper hose banjo bolt and hopefully with no other modifications.

Just dreaming outside the box>

Let us know if you try this idea and what the results are please.

m1D

when I did mine I reversed the sway bar brackets side to side
placing the bolt for the link/bushings directly on top of the axle
when I bolted everything up tight it all fit, it doesn't seem like
it fits until you tighten everything up. don't have any pics of it
but it does work after its all tightened up.

if you are having trouble getting the nut to start
because of not enough threads showing, I would take
the tubes and cut about 1/4 inch off of them, just make
both the same length, and no more than 1/4 inch