For all us Chev V-8 types-my realization today!!

For so many years i cant remember now- when ever i disassembled an early chev V - 8 engine -I mean early!! 265-283 & some 327 motors- I always looked for & saved the early oil pump drive shafts Pump to dizzy -steel rod! Saving & stashing for my own use!! Hehe Why?? cause these had made onto them the coupler that is steel!! The newer drive rods have the usual (now) nylon connector on them!! That can break & u know -cause problems!! Thumbing thru a new summitt catalogue -while studying on this mornings ="Constituional" I found those drive rods are being produced & sold!! WOW!! Modern technology =again!! Therefore Id recomend buying one if u need for a build!! Happy Trails & Happy Vanning!!

Good point. I like to use a quality steel driveshaft and collar too.

Something else I do= I always =after trial fitting the oil pan to the engine- spot weld the pickup tube to the pump!! I also add some small 10L washers inside the pump -behind the relief spring-add pressure & u can also buy some heavier springs that will add pressure to a new pump!! Always get the High Volume pump too! Not a High pressure one!! Volume is what these engines need for safe running!!

I had a new 71-elcamino 454 once -that I caught the oil pressure falling - due to a pickup coming off. Turned it off when i saw it & called a wrecker to tow to the chev dealership(warranty!!) --thats what they found! Pump pickup tube off!!

The standard pressure is set by the factory for a reason. Modding the pump to get more pressure out of it can create its own problems, like blown out oil seals and gaskets.

One caution I have read:  Running a hi volume pump can create a negative oil situation if the High Volume pump is used in conjunction with a stock pan.  If you run a high volume pump, use a deep pan with additional capacity.  Without additional oil, the HV pump can suck all the oil up faster than it can drain back at higher RPM's.

A standard volume pump is just fine for any normal street applications.

I have used HV pumps on worn engines that had excessive bearing clearances and were showing low oil pressure. This is a way to use the HV pump as a 'crutch' to make sure your bearings are getting engine oil.

The mods described above are old school racer tricks, and were done with high RPM operation in mind, without care for how it would effect the engine's longevity. I'm not an expert machinist, but its probably best to talk to a machinist before doing mods like that, to avoid actually shortening the life of your engine.

yea==ive herd the same -yet never had any problems at all- I believe that was due to having an engine RPM sustained @ over 5000++ for extended times !! Not out daily drivers. Like in race cars - seems like old grumpy Jenkins had that discovery -long ago.

My point is that using a HV pump is unnecessary on a normal street build, and the added force needed to drive the bigger pump, to always move the additional volume of fluid, creates direct parasitic drag within your engine, costing you a power/torque reduction that otherwise would be transferred to the flywheel in the form of power output.

That being said, I did use a HV pump on my new 413 in Hella Sunshine.  Simply because I happened to have one on hand.  With the 413, I'm running aluminum heads and a small B&M supercharger, so I'm not concerned about parasitic power loss.

This is a whole lot to consider when assembling an engine. The oiling system is definitely important!

Very True!! Yet in my over 50+ years of building engines- the only "Parasitic Drag" i have ever worried about =was getting my wife -OUT of the malls sales =so I could get back to building!!