fuel gauge unit removal

I've gotten this far (you're looking at the top of the fuel tank). the maintenance manual says "remove cam lock using special tool J-8950".  I surely don't want to tear anything up, but don't have a J-8950 special tool handy, either.  i'm going to go at it with a couple of screwdrivers and channel locks if I don't get some good advice real quick.........suggestions, anyone?

I think if you spray a little penetration solution like PB Blaster and gently tap the tabs with a flat head screwdriver and hammer, it should slide out for you. At least that worked for me with my Ford.

makes sense. i'll give it a try.

That's how I got mine apart as well. I used a dull flat blade and tapped a little on each tab and it turned out great. Soaking it in penetrating oil helped a lot. A rubber seal underneath is keeping it tight along with dirt and rust.

If you want to be extra safe, use a brass or other non-sparking metal block or even hardwood to hit the tabs with!...unless you are sure its completely flushed of all gas and vapors.....

Be sure to wear safety goggles- welders Gloves, Face shield , a Abola approved suit, and then use an approved Smoke Wrench to cut off / heat the gasket - flange area- it will eventually open then!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -- Just Kidding !! just tap the seal tangs to move them & all will be fine!!---Counter clockwise!!

I've changed a few gas tanks over the years. You don't need a special tool, just a punch or a big flat blade screw driver and a hammer. If its really rusty, a liberal amount of penetrating oil. The locking ring goes back on the opposite way it came off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-vPZ2RXWZI

ok, so I opened up my 50 year old fuel tank and here's what I see.  any way to treat the internal of the tank for this rust?  also, as far as the fuel gauge and strainer unit, how readily available is a replacement, or if the action of the parts is still freely movable, just clean it up and put it back in?

I am going to ship my sending unit off to this company to have it rebuilt.
http://tristarrradiator.com/Classic%20%20Vintage%20Page/Classic%20%20Vintage%20Page.html

I got a fuel tank liner kit to line my gas tank. I hope your tank doesn't look as bad as mine. I am having a patch panel welded on.

Use a pressure washer if you have one or take your tank to a car wash to wash out the inside of your tank. Drain as much water as you can through the filler neck then set the tank up so the remaining water drains down into a corner. Then take a piece of stiff wire and fasten a rag or paper towel to it to sop up the remaining water. the inside should dry over night or you can blow air into the tank to dry it up quicker.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=3305

no, GMman, i'd say mine looks GREAT compared to yours!

LOL!!! That's good. When it's done, mine will hold gas just fine.


Patched up, sealed inside and epoxy paint outside, it will be almost as good as new.

softesttouch wrote:ok, so I opened up my 50 year old fuel tank and here's what I see.  any way to treat the internal of the tank for this rust?  also, as far as the fuel gauge and strainer unit, how readily available is a replacement, or if the action of the parts is still freely movable, just clean it up and put it back in?

There is no direct replacement for the sender/pickup so if it tests ok with an Ohm meter 0-30 I'd just clean it up and inspect it for pin holes. The floats get brittle with age but I believe there are replacements available. Getting one rebuilt may be a little pricey but it should be a once in a lifetime thing.
GMman you have some big holes to fill! Good luck.

Update to this thread...I just acquired a nice used sending unit that tests out perfect when hooked into the circuit with a clip lead from the rear plug by the tail light, gauge reads full F with float up and exactly E with arm down.  I also found this tool on eBay for only $15 that should do the job without banging anything...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360986170272

It does the 4 prong GM lock rings like the vans have.  I'm also using one of the replacement floats that fit the senders:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301435555261?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT