King pin kit on Macs...

It lists it as "Correctly made, USA manufacture."

Has this been confirmed? The engrish has me concerned...

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_econoline/king-pin-and-bushing-kit-4-91-long-e100.html

it says bushing must be reamed,,,,,,,are you ready for that?

I'm not worried about the reaming. I suppose I can have a shop manage that. I'm talking about the depth of the set pin slot. .644 vs .662

If it's wrong, flip em and have a shop cut a new groove. Just stay away from TRW. Those for sure are bad.

Summit has them cheaper, Moog brand. Whether they are proper, I don't know. Moog is generally a trusted parts brand and it isn't TRW.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-8485b?seid=srese1&gclid=CPGxm-Wwh78CFYhafgod_6UADA

Better still, Amazon and it ships free

http://www.amazon.com/Moog-8485B-King-Bolt-Set/dp/B000HPWGOG/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=Econoline%7C6990&Year=1964%7C1964&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleType=7

I'm going to call them tomorrow. Just to find out what that means.

this thread is perfect timing. I'm very interested in doing the same job.

Moog should be good.

Moog can be cut wrong as well. It's hit or miss with them. Trayer is the company that has been cutting them wrong. They are a supplier. When Moog made their own pins they made them right. Now the are buying them from Trayer and Trayer makes them wrong. Most companies have been buying from Trayer for years. Trayer has been told they are making them wrong and refuse to do anything about it. You can have them recut to the correct dimension or drill out the axle to the incorrect size and make an oversize locking pin. Once you drill the axle you can never go back to the correct pin. I'm not sure but I think the Speedway pins were correct but I think they were the 61-63 type. Speedway pins were made to use Econo spindles on their tube front axles for their T-bucket kits. Speedway was sold a few years ago so I'm not sure what's going on with their pins not. They could be buying them now.

Duane in Tennessee

That's disappointing about Moog, I may order a set just to measure them. Would definitely be worth the extra $35 or whatever dif+shipping is to get a correctly made set, assuming the Mac pins are right...   

Ok. good news.

The operator on the tech line found notes that stated that these are indeed ground to the "correct shallow depth".


Boom.

All things considered, its probably more cost effective to go this route than roll the dice and have to spend more $ and time on getting them corrected.

I ordered the ones from rockauto and they worked great and the price was pretty good too.



https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1441351,parttype,7340

In regards to "REAMING" the bushings its or has been a way of sizing and aligning them into each other using a reamer for at least or over a hundred years or so!!!
 No matter if you hone them or use an adjustable reamer ALL the bushings must be fit to the OD of the pin and so ALL of them are undersized in the box. The bushings need to align perfectly to each other and no other way to it.
  Having owned an automotive machine shop I used both methods for years and using the Sunnen hone did not leave any gouges or low spots as the reamer does. Its worth the money to have them honed.
  Regards to all the conversations and gazillion threads and posts regarding the bad cuts,,, I just assume they are all bad no matter who promises you they are cut correctly. For as touchy as ruining an axle can be I just order them re cut from Ted,, no fuss, no muss, done deal and RE-GROUND not re cut.  Just got two more sets from him and all is perfect...
Vic

Vic, do you have Ted's contact info?
Thanks in advance!

I had asked about getting a set from Ted and thought I was told that I would have to mail him a set and wait. Is this the case, or does he 'stock' them?

Here you go,,  usually you simply need to send him yours,,, email him and talk to him,,,
vic


I have one set of 64/67 Econoline kingpins with new correct grind for locking pin, $115 including shipping.

 

Ted Johns ♥ Woodinville, Washington

 

__._,_.___


Posted by: "Ted Johns" <ted@for-d.com>

...on my break,,,,,,I could go over to C&G, which is in the next town over, and measure exactly what they got,,,,,,,and what is different about the 61-63 kingpins?

I wouldn't bother as I have not heard of a good set yet,, other than used ones you just pulled out. Seems like a lot of work to TRY AND FIND a good set. LOL...... If you have Ted re grind on the other side there is NO doubt.  If you can find a good set that would be great....
  The "EARLY" pins (61-63),,, were much different than the picture you posted above.  The pins were longer in length and sealed with large O-rings on both the top and the bottom. They were greased by zirk fittings that were drilled and tapped into each side of each spindle end for each of the two bushings. The ones above in your picture using shorter pins and greased with screw in end caps that had the zirc fittings in them with the bushings DESIGNED TO have the grease enter them from the caps. The early bushings with a diamond shaped entry hole that matched the zirck fitting side placements in the spindle ends. So also, the bushings are different than each other,,, (DUH,,,
  There were NO OVER SIZED LATE PINS available HOWEVER they were available in .010 over sized in the early pins only.  SO,,,,,  this means you can make an oversized late pin out of an early over sized pin.  To do this, (to save a ruined axle, duh),,,,  you can cut the ends off of the early pin in order to match the late pin length, and then cut a entry groove into the late bushings in order for the grease to be able to enter from the caps.
 ALL BUSHINGS are made under sized on purpose so that you can hone them to the correct size and also align them at the same time...
vic

I have a set coming from Macs, as part of a larger order. I will report back with the findings.

I asked a question on my Gallery page, but will ask again here. What does it mean when my passenger side spindle moved up and down when I pumped grease into it. The driver side did not. Worn bearing?

,,,or someone did not put the correct free play shims in it,,,,,

wait a cotton pickin minute.. there are shims in the mix?! Why haven't I heard reference to these 'free play shims' until now? are these in the typical king pin kit?

Look up at my picture,,,,,,those 4 big silver washers are shims that go on top of the axle over the kingpin shaft, to tighten up the spindle,,,,,I would say if you look at where the bottom of the upper bushing sits above the axle, that should be like less than .005,,,,,,otherwise the spindle slides up and down on the kingpin shaft,,,,

All the kits have them,, however the spindles are or usually always are worn and its difficult to install them unless you take a file and dress that worn area down flush again. When I install them I take a file and dress that area down until its all flat again.  The shims are exactly that shims,,, the weight of the vehicle is supposed to bear down on the bearings and the shims to take out the slack. When you take yours apart you should see what I am explaining.
 If when you grease it with no load on it and it raises the spindle that would indicate to me that the shims and or the support bearings are worn out and there is free play.

 
vic

...I guess the real question is, did someone just do kingpins in that axle,,,,