emergency brake cables

Whats the scoop on replacement ones? I'm missing the single front one that goes from the handle the straddle and the two rears that go from my straddle to the rear drums are frozen up. It seems I have all the individual parts but the cable are shot or missing. Is there cables from other cars that work? There aren't any econo cables in macs catalog. Thanks.

Nobody has ever needed to replace their cables, know of a place who sells them, or know of anybody who makes replicas?

I had email exhcange with some photos for support with a company that can reproduce them...Im not sure if other cars will work or not? Seems like a reasonable option, otherwise finding used ones or junkyard?

Here is a copy of an email I had with Vic, "Old Skool"  here:

If you like try calling Vic at Control Cables, tell
him that I referred you to them, give him the info and get a price.(562)
949-0455

Here is their email: sales@controlcables.com

I believe they are in California

My 62 pickup is up on the lift at my mechanic's place down the street. The right rear emergency brake cable is frozen. I read the post about removing it, soaking it in solvent, working the cable back and forth and getting all the gunk out. Will try doing that. But it's weird. I thought there would be separate left and right rear cables, but there's a single rear cable that goes to both sides. There are no ball ends that fit into the yoke by the bar in the middle. The cable is just continuous through the yoke. I looked on Mac's Auto Parts online and don't see a replacement cable that matches this configuration. Each side is about 55" long. I hope the solvent soak treatment works and that the spring is still strong enough.

I just found a replacement rear cable, NOS from Green Sales. They sell NOS parts. Only $34 too. In case anyone's interested their number is 513 731-3304.

This is a very old subject,,, LOL...... A 1962 Econoline DID NOT USE TWO BRAKE CABLES to the rear axle!!!!!!!!!!!  Wake up!! It used a single cable that went from one backing plate to the other backing plate!!!  The mounts that are welded to the frame for the cable to mount into are all the same from 1961 to 1967 EXCEPT FOR THE FACT THAT THEY are welded in different positions on the truck. One position for the single cable and a different location for the later double e brake cable rear axles. Several different equalizers used. I have been posting for many years to simply use the early single cable by simply removing your double cables from the backing plates and re use the original single cable if the rear axle has been changed (which seems to be obvious thing here,,)
 SO,, IF YOU WANT A LEFT REAR CABLE that means someone has changed the rear end (probably a 9") and didn't know what they were doing,,,,  and MORE THAN LIKELY part of  your issue as it puts too much strain on the outside sheathing,,,,,, LOL....
OLKSKOOL,,,,,,,,still trying to get to work,,, ?????????

Whatever you do don't call bruin, f*ck those guys.

Had to post a reply,,  With all the new people over the last few years, there seems to always be a new person that may not know of what they are or are not getting into and this perhaps another one of them?  No offense made, but really hate to see someone perhaps wasting moneys and crying about it later on. Here is a copy of another reply which hopefully will help someone else at the same time.. 
OLDSKOOL,,,,,,,,,,,,late for work again,,, 

I no longer include drums of which are easily available for about $42 bucks each.  This a typical question that has been over talked about for ever,, LOL..


1st of all,, that rear end is most common to be trashed as its too small to begin with let alone a 200 in front of it. NEXT  of all a 200 WILL CRACK THE FRAME as the 62 had issues to begin with using a THINNER frame gauge thickness!!!!!  The frames cracking with original SMALLER 144 motor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE EARLIES DID NOT USE A CROSS MEMBER and the smaller motor would CANTILEVER the engine by using the two SHEET METAL engine hangers. The DRIVERS side LIFTING UP and at the same time the PASSENGERS side pushing downwards!!!!!!!!!!  Recently did a 63 with a THICKER FRAME GAUGE THICKNESS and could watch the floor MOVE in front of the passengers seat WHEN I SIMPLY SNAPPED THE THROTTLE  IN NEUTRAL!!!!!!!!

As in many years of posting,,, HORSEPOWER AND GEARING WORK TOGETHER!!!  That truck was NOT DESIGNED to go fast!!!  It had a small motor and low gears in it to make up for NO HORSEPOWER.....(MAKE SENSE?????????????????????) oh,,,,,
  For over fifty years I have heard the same old story about screaming RPM on the freeway,, (really????),,,and broken rear ends!!!
  IN ORDER TO REBUILD that rear end it needs to be pulled out of the truck and BENCHED, it has no strength in the front yoke for the 144 and now with a 200????????? It has SMALLER WIDTH brake shoes than an ECONOLINE 9' rear end and once you build that smaller rear end, you ARE STUCK WITH WHAT EVER GEAR RATIO you decide to use, and still have a weaker rear axle and smaller brakes than the 9" rear end!!!!!! 
 You can swap  a 9" third member out in one hour if you are slow and pick what ever gear ratio you will ever imagine of gearing you may or may not want, you CANNOT BREAK IT and your issues will be over FOREVER,,, If want to change gearing its as simple as changing the 3rd member out,,, I sell third members of any gearing you want for $175,,,,
  WHY would anyone even consider rebuilding the small rear end when you can replace it with an Econoline 9" for the same amount of money??????????????  Sorry, but after 15 years of this answer its getting very repetitive........................ How much is you mechanic going to charge to rebuild it???  Cheap labor rate @ $100 per hour plus parts??  You will have an easy $500 in it, lessor strength, stuck with the gearing that you pick, AND SMALLER BRAKES.
  On top of that crack the frame with a 200 in it???
OLDSKOOL

I'm just now realizing why the picture below is important. The hose compresses the little spring tangs that hold the end of the cable to the brake backing plate. That is a a very clever way to remove a cable. I just removed mine with a screwdriver and a tiny pry bar, but the hose clamp is an excellent idea.

THANK YOU,, I had thought so toooooooo... LOL