Interior Wall Insulation.???..

I will have it spray by professionnal not with cans

Spray on foam has some real drawbacks. 1st like M1 said it will promote rust. 2nd it makes it almost impossible to do any repairs if needed. 3rd almost impossible to resell. Something that will allow some air circulation between the metal and interior would be a better choice. I'm in Michigan, NOT the hotspot of the midwest. I found a little insulation goes a long ways here. Just my 2 cents.

What do they use on campers as insulation

Ronin: You might also look at 'Roxul' insulation batts. No itch, great sound deadening, good 'R' value, and you can split them for thin spaces. Still look for the aluminized 'Resisto' stuff. Usually they have samples in-store for your fondling pleasure. Might have to get them to order it in the roll size you may want.

Thanks Oscarm

I have a custom kit that I purchased from member (or former member? ) Roman that was made by a sound proofing specialty place.

My kit is essentially strategically placed Dynamat strips combined with the silver foil bubble stuff used in HVAC systems that is commonly used to line the doghouse.

It fits in between the ribs using a spray mount glue, I believe.  I started it but have not completed it yet.  I'll post some photos when I get to the van next.

I am definitely using Lizard Skin ceramic spray insulation and was considering spraying the interior walls and floors before putting down the rest of my kit IF that makes sense.

In terms of breathability, it mounts directly to the wall of the van.  I had spoken to the company rep myself before purchase, and she said it would be fine.  They are specialists in this arena and she had a lot of techincal know how.  She definitely said that people go overboard with Dynamat and use far more than they need.  

For what it's worth...

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Finally after talking with old school people that used to customized van interior, i will spray Urethane to insolated and isolated my van

Mine has two layers of the foil bubble like in the pic above on the roof held on with spray adhesive and spun wooley carpet underlay on the walls, also glued on. I'd have used the bubble on the walls but the PO already glued the underlay in place.

Here are the photos of the "custom" kit I purchased from another member here.

The kit was made from a company in Cali that takes measurements, etc and figures out strategic placement for Dynomat.

It applies directly to the sheet metal using spray adhesive.  I spoke at length with someone at the company very knowledgeable with the science of the product and etc and she indicated that direct application would not trap humidity, etc.  

http://www.lobucrod.com  Found this place online. Anyone use it?

samsvan wrote:http://www.lobucrod.com  Found this place online. Anyone use it?

Looks similar or the same to my product.  Mine is not the bubble insulation stuff, either.  I will find the maker next time I am in my van.

Anyone have experience with this stuff?
http://www.jcwhitney.com/p2010475/sku-328425.jcwx?filterid=c2663u0j1

Or an opinion on best insulation(s).
I want to also use it to line my doghouse and floors. So heat and sound are a must. I'm not married to one type of insulation but budget is important.

I used a 3/8 fiber/aluminum product in my DH. Does okay, it will still build some heat in stop n go traffic on a warm day but overall it isn't to bad. Cut down the sound quite a bit. For the price I think I would try it, that's pretty reasonable. If you go that route get the tape also. I used 3M heavy duty trim adhesive to hold mine on . spray can stuff is holding up after 3 plus seasons.

Thanks Digz,
I'll Probably Try that one, And ill get a couple rolls of tape and a spray can.

My plan is hardwood floors, and re-do the dogbox.

I have an a108 travco camper and it has fiberglass walls. When I get there I'm going to check behind them and see whats happening with insulation on the walls. who knows whats going on back there.

I have used white elastomeric roof coating for numerous auto and home projects and I have yet to cease being amazed at how well this stuff covers, sticks, and wears..... So far, I have completely encapsulated the plywood decking on a car trailer, painted a patio, deck and stairs, and the inside floor and walls of my 3-door suburban....These projects are all between 2 and 6 years old and still look great!....
I'll probably do the entire  sheet metal interior and the outsde roof of my van with this stuff for heat and rust protection and waterproofing..... After that I'll probably stick this stuff:  http://www.thermotec.com/products/14600-suppressor-acoustical-heat-control-mat.html everywhere I can for heat and noise suppression..... Hopefully this will be enough insulating before an interior, but I might also consider sticking this foil stuff on the back of paneling

First time posting pics......That misplaced thread is gone in "G10's for sale, so I'll post pics of my elastomeric burb interior here....    

After three coats before blue camo....



After some quickie spray-can camo....









For those that are unfamiliar, the 67-72 Suburban and panel trucks have plywood flooring behind the seats and my plywood had previously had a tough life....I literally poured this stuff down and it ran out underneath in places that Chevrolet had never intended to be watertight.... so now the floor is entirely sealed! I had intended to eventually put carpet or mats, but I've kinda decided I like it in this form! It's been over five years and the floor still looks great! I did the blue camo to give it some character and color and because I knew the white would look dirty in a very short time..... BTW the 2x4 tube armrests hide the popper solenoids and provide door pulls...the door panels behind the armrests are textured with the white elastomeric...

I know it's not a van, so I just posted these pics to show the use of elastomeric roof coating for metal interiors....even though they aren't the burb's best pics.....

On the subject of insulation, I have used white, 1/2" EVA closed-cell foam on a couple of different projects......

When I was restoring a 63 Chevy shortbed pickup for my son, I ordered enough of this stuff to completely cover the floor and up the firewall before putting carpet in.....I pieced it in and glued the pieces to the newly-painted floor and to each other.....That truck drove as quiet as a Cadillac and I was VERY impressed! We sold the truck three years later without ever again looking under the carpet....
A couple of years after that, I bought some of this same stuff to glue to the ceiling sheetmetal of my Suburban.....The stuff is very hard to tear or gouge and even a little challenging to cut.... Anyway, I cut the pieces and put them in my storage shed for about a year (till I was ready to install!) When I got them back out to install, the material had become dried out and crumbly and easy to accidently tear..... I'm torn as to whether I'd use it again, but if I did, I'd use it right away and in places where it would hide. Even on cuts, there are no air pockets at all to absorb water, so, other than any condensation that might form between surfaces (Which I'd coat the metal with elastomeric) there is no place in this foam for moisture to fester (except possibly after it begins to dry and crumble).....the stuff is available in thick enough pieces to potentially fit the entire space behind paneling

Hi.  This is how I did mine, and all my other wheels as well.

I start by making sure it's nice and clean, no rust or critters:


Next I install some sound proofing material (Dynamat, FatMat...) which is simply a butyl rubber bonded to an aminum alloy skin which cuts the "tin can" effect. No need to cover everything, just some patch in the middle will do.

Next I use closed cell foam (carpet underlay from Home Depot) to cover the entire panel. It won't absorb water, easy to cut and fairly cheap. As you can see there's one side with pattern. Put that side against the panel so air can circulate between the ridges.


I finish it off with Roxul insulation. This brand doesn't absorb water or humidity like the typical fiberglass one. It's also way easier to work with and doesn't itch! I cut mine in half thickness with a large knife then add it as the next layer making sure I don't compress it.

I guess one could add a layer of poly sheet (vapour barrier) on top but in my case I just put the panel back on top and call it a day. My van is now cool in the summer/warm in the winter and very quiet.

Cheers
Mr. D

Ps. Sorry for the pictures that fell on their side, no idea why...

Have seen ads for this product on Facebook. May be the same or similar to product Vantasia has used from eBay.

http://www.carinsulation.com/buycarinsulation.html