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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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G-Man
EcoPU
6 posters

    New 64 Pickup

    EcoPU
    EcoPU


    Number of posts : 104
    Location : Oakland, CA
    Registration date : 2013-08-28

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    Post by EcoPU Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:25 am

    Hi Guys,

    I just bought a 1964 pickup with a 289 bored to 302. Here is a link to a walk around


    I need some advice / help. The ford master tech who worked on the engine for the PO before selling it did some questionable setup on the carb. It has a rubber band and wire wrap on it...Also sounds like it has a vacuum leak maybe.
    He was supposed to get it running for me prior to purchase lol. Didn't change oil, didn't change spark plugs.. anyways.

    Here is a video of the carb and engine running


    Needless to say I don't think it's really working correctly, it lags when i hit the gas and the time it takes to reach the engine. I can get a edelbrock performer 289 2121 intake manifold for 100, then maybe a 4 barrel 500cfm carb from like edelbrock. Or do I find another 2 barrel carb, pretty sure the one on there is a motorcraft 2100.


    Next issue is the transmission. I've identified it as a C4. It shifts hard and sometimes won't go into park, so I'm not sure if I should rebuild it. Or buy a rebuilt C4 $400-500 and new 2000-2200rpm Torque Converter and have those installed?

    Thanks for your advice.
    EcoPU
    EcoPU


    Number of posts : 104
    Location : Oakland, CA
    Registration date : 2013-08-28

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    Post by EcoPU Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:28 am

    Walk around video

    youtube.com/watch?v=qDt9u7k7ais

    Carb / Engine

    youtube.com/watch?v=TcGajYxZi4Y


    Last edited by EcoPU on Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:24 am; edited 1 time in total
    G-Man
    G-Man
    Mayor
    Mayor


    Number of posts : 30743
    Location : Fowlerville, MI
    Age : 63
    Registration date : 2008-05-06

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    Post by G-Man Mon Sep 02, 2013 1:03 pm

    Welcome to VV!!!
    Big W
    Big W


    Number of posts : 3282
    Location : Saskatoon,Sask,Canada
    Age : 60
    Registration date : 2011-01-13

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    Post by Big W Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:16 pm

    Welcome to VV EcoPU. When you are able post some pics of your truck.
    EcoPU
    EcoPU


    Number of posts : 104
    Location : Oakland, CA
    Registration date : 2013-08-28

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    Post by EcoPU Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:14 pm

    Thanks for the greetings guys. I'll try to take some more pictures soon.

    EcoPU
    EcoPU


    Number of posts : 104
    Location : Oakland, CA
    Registration date : 2013-08-28

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    Post by EcoPU Wed Sep 04, 2013 6:19 am

    Man so many decisions

    Carb/Manifold - Solved
    =================
    Currently Equipped: 2v Motorcraft (2100 or 2150)
    =================
    I've decided to replace the 2v carb and manifold.  Weiand 8124 for the manifold and Holley 0-81570 for the carb.


    Rear End - Unsolved
    ===============
    Currently Equipped: 7 1/2" rear end with 4:1 ratio.
    ================
    I've read that the 7.5 rear end is rated for about 225 HP, which I'm most likely going to be at with the carb swap and the 289 already bored. I've found a few 9" rear ends from mustangs of the 60's for 750+. I also read that that a 95+ explorer 8.8 rear end would work well and give me disc in the rear, I'd need to weld on some leaf spring perches. I've found the Explorer 8.8 for around $250-$300 It would give me a 3.73 ratio with posi. I need to measure and confirm fitment of the 8.8.


    Transmission - Unsolved
    ==================
    Currently Equipped: 1968 mustang C4 with 24 splines
    ==================

    a. C4
    I've called a few transmission shops and the best price i've found on a rebuild of the tranny is 1150 with 2 year warranty. Most expensive quote was 2200... But I've read the 24 spline C4 is rated for around 300 hp. I've also found some rebuilt C4's; post 70, without Torque Converter for $400-$500 including a 2 to 3 year warranty. $1150 rebuild vs ($400-$500 + $200(TC) + $300-$500 for labor R&R) new C4. With the newer C4 comes 26 splines and more than 300 HP capability.

    b. AOD
    I've found one(post 88 AOD) for free, or some others AOD's for around $200-250, then a rebuild and R&R . I'd have an overdrive with the AOD. I've read that AOD's are good if you handle the VC link. I don't know what additional work or fabrication would be needed to swap out the C4 to AOD, or even if the transmission tunnel has room (i think it does).

    Kinda leaning towards AOD + 8.8 explorer rear end, but also think this might be the most work.

    Any opinion/advice is appreciated ?

    Thank you.
    sunny


    Last edited by EcoPU on Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:27 am; edited 5 times in total (Reason for editing : Clarification / Formatting)
    Twinpilot001
    Twinpilot001


    Number of posts : 6186
    Location : spokane ,Wa.
    Registration date : 2009-09-28

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    Post by Twinpilot001 Wed Sep 04, 2013 7:09 am

    Good choices so far!! esp the intake & Holly!!Now!!= suggestion -the tranny - look for an AOD =pref from an 82 up  model with a 351 - best -as for rebuilders - hah =stay away from the tranny shops - rip ur eyes out!! Try to find a guy thru friends & craigs list doing trannys @ home or homeshop?? here we can get most all done for 350-450 always with kit! as for the rear end - great -my personal choice is that 3:73 ratio -posi always ! works good whit the aod & any weight ur have in the van & gives u good fuel mileage anyways.Happy building!!

    EcoPU
    EcoPU


    Number of posts : 104
    Location : Oakland, CA
    Registration date : 2013-08-28

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    Post by EcoPU Wed Sep 04, 2013 6:52 pm

    Thank Twin Pilot, I'll be sure to try to find an AOD from a 302 or larger Smile

    The stock 7 1/2" rear is 56 1/2" long.
    Ford Explorer 8.8 is 59 1/2. I'm thinking it should work.
    If not the the ranger from 1990-92 has a 56 1/2" 8.8
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    Old Skool
    Econoline Guru


    Number of posts : 1306
    Location : North Hills, CA
    Age : 72
    Registration date : 2009-06-13

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    Post by Old Skool Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:55 am

    Been thinking of a reply to all of the above now for a day, but also understood that it would be a long reply,,, sorry   but a LOT of points to cover.
    Firstly,, I was not able to view your walk around yet,, as been very busy with Mom and orders, but think I need to say a few things here to help.
    As yours is a 64 it is an early, however at the cusp of all the improvements for the lates. That year being the ONLY year with two transmission mounting holes in the frame member. It was the ONLY year for a donout mount case fill small six C4 with its one year only special dropped sheet metal engine hangers. The reason being that you also had NO hump in the back of your doghouse from the factory, so they had to drop the engine height down, both in the front and in the back.
    You make some statements that I find a bit confusing as to the strength of the C4 and its input shaft spline count. 1st of all the C4 is a very fine transmission by itself and actually the most effecient. The C6 with a 15% parasitic loss of power over the C4. In regards to the input shafts there were some 70/s models that had a larger spline input shaft as well as the different front pump to match, also SOME with hardened shafts.
    Some thing you need to realize is that your engine has the cast iron heads of which you will only be able to get a certain amount of horse power from. UNLESS you go all the way with that motor, take it apart and check some things out, you basically have a 2bbl 302!!!! There are a lot of other things that you need to do in order to support a larger intake and carb.  One is a camshaft to let it breathe, headers, a roller chain, higher compression and better breathing heads and most importantly a real distributor!!!
     Right now you dont even know what cam is in there AND OR if the chain is sloppy creating some timing issues and or lax gas pedal????????????????
     In regards to the C4 handling it,, YES, ,it is a very strong and good transmisison,, HOWEVER we are back at your engine height and your tranmission mount.  The 6 cylinder breaks the stock donout mount and it is expensive and only one person making a replacement mount.
    I have done a lot of V8 conversions and have seen and fixed many that were shoe horned in place. At least the frame thickness of youre 64 is thicker than the earlier years, however I am very curious as to how the engine was installed???  IF YOU DO NOT have a real cross member going under the motor from one frame rail to the other frame rail you will be able to watch your passengers seat move up and down as it flexs and tries to break the frame rails..  I make V8 cross members and also transmission cross members for other transmissions and tail stocks that I will get into in a minute.....
     There are some heating and cooling issues to address as well as increasing the doghouse size for BOTH breathing as well as spark plug and wire access.
    Regrards to the 8.8 it will handle the horse power and the T bird clip axle rear end is weak. There are two issues with the rear end you have now, firstly,,, you WILL TWIST IT,, its not strong enough, it also has 2" wide brake shoes, and the wrong gearing. In order to change the gearing, you need to rebuild it, and it will still not be strong enough.  Youre BEST BET is an Econoline 9" rear axle,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,It is a BOLT IN AND IT HAS 2 1/2" BRAKE SHOES.  More than enough for your needs.  Also, a subject you have not talked about yet besides radiators and alternators is brakes.  NO SENSE in gong fast if you cannot stop!!!!!  So, you need to consider front disc brakes at the very least, and far more important that rear disc brakes. Especially if you put in the Econoliner 9" rear axle with larger brakes.
     In regards to the all of the other transmissions that you are talking about,, NONE HAVE A TAIL STOCK that will allow you to bolt into your donout mount. There are some combinations for the C4 that are much easier. REGARDLESS of all of them,, you do not want a long tail stock with a sliding yoke drive shaft which makes a short drive shaft and alignment issues more critical. On the C4 there are three short tail stocks that are made. One is the one year only donout mount C4 (case fill) short solid output yoke tailstock,   the 65 to 67 Econoline short solid output yoke tail stock, and the later year solid output yoke, short tail stock with an under transmission type mount. Of this last one the transmission mounting location is identical to the car type under transmisson tail stock, but using the strongest mount.
     Of the C4 tail stocks they are ALL interchangeable and all interchangeable onto the car type C4 with the long tail stock and the sliding yoke drive shaft.  
     Of the C6 there are two types of short solid output yoke tail stocks made in additiion to the weaker and longer tail stock transmissions, and these also will interchange.  
     Of the AOD by far the best to use is from a late 80's THUNDERBIRD or Mustang  as it has the SHORT tail stock. Of the AOD'S there are NO SOLID OUTPUT YOKE tail stocks, they are ALL sliding yoke tail stocks. Of the AOD's,, you want the NON COMPUTOR controlled lock up transmissions to use with your carb and no computor. AND of these there are two versions. The highly sought after models with the LOW 1ST AND 2ND GEAR PLANETARIES,, or the standard geared planetarie transmisisons. Of these if you do not adjust the line pressure in the transmisson correctly YOU WILL FRY IT in about 5 miles, so be carefull.
     In order to use any of these transmissions EXCEPT for installlng a donout mount onto your C4 you will need and under transmisision type mount cross member. I make and have them in stock and with all the bugs worked out for you already.  BEWARE,,, that the sides of the frame rails ARE NOT AT 90 DEGREES!!!!!! SO you CANNOT simply use a 90degree piece of angle iron to construct your frame mounts. I weld them in using two pieces to construct them and then have the bottom part parralel with the bottom flat side of the frame.
     MUCH MORE TO SAY,, however,,, youre 64 with a 2bbl and a 9" rear axle will easily use 3:00 gearing, will go much faster than you realize and there are a lot of other issues to deal with also. You will need to upgrade your alternator right off the bat in order to support all the new fans and electrical,,, the stock one will not put out enough amperage at idle, which is when the truck is most susceptable to over heating. Your doghouse will not have a hump in the back of it for bell housing clearance, and not big enough for headers and such,, you will only get so much out of those cast iron heads, and doubtfull you will twist up a C4, you will need a larger radiator and better brakes for sure.
    I sell 9" ECONOLINE rear axles here for $500 drum to drum (new drums included), I make disc brakes, I make automatic steering columns, shift rod to shift cable conversions, 67 master cylinders and remote reservoir conversions kits, V8 cross members, transmission cross members and much more.
    I knew this would be a long post,, but,, had to do it.....LOL,,   and much more I can help with,,,
    vic ((Old Skool)

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    EcoPU
    EcoPU


    Number of posts : 104
    Location : Oakland, CA
    Registration date : 2013-08-28

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    Post by EcoPU Fri Sep 06, 2013 2:54 am

    Hi Vic, That was a long and well thought out post. Thank you for taking the time to do such.

    I'm going to crawl under there tomorrow and snap some pictures to show you how the v8 is mounted. I know for sure there is no cross member on the c4 that is in there now. The front area is covered by a shroud so I can't see a motor cross member yet.

    The C4 in the truck is from 1968 mustang attached to a 1968 289. The tailhouse on the C4 isn't short like the one you pictured, it looks longer and more narrow. The doghouse has been modified to give much more room, I'll take some pictures, or in the engine video I posted you might be able to see.

    I agree the C4 is a good transmission. In 1970; like you said, it was upgraded from a 24 spline to a 26 spline with hardened shaft. This change enabled it to support more than 225 HP. Since I have a 2bbl 302 I'd say I'm close to 225hp. Once an intake and 4bbl Carb is put on there I'm sure it would be past 225hp. I'm concerned with a C4 geared at 2.72-3.00 being to slow/boring around town and requiring more throttle to increase responsiveness.

    I like the 8.8" rear end for 31 spline strength, locker, and 3.73 ratio. I've called two shops and have been quoted 500 if I bring in the axle and they'll do all the grinding welding and fitting. Or 800-1000 I just bring in the truck they do it all. I can also get disc brakes in both front and rear. There are some 8.8's with drum brakes, but I think i'd just get disc.  

    Your 9" axle is still a good option, due to it being a direct fit. I'd have to gear it to 3.5 to use with AOD. I believe the 9" to be a 28 spline vs the 31 spline of the 8.8, but not sure.

    Comparison C4 vs AOD RPM

    3.00 gears C4 26" tire 75 mph = 2973 rpm
    3.00 gears AOD 26" tire 75 mph = 2027 rpm
    AOD reduces the 3.00 to 2.01 in OD

    3.73 gears C4 26" tire 75 mph = 3696 rpm
    3.73 gears AOD 26" tire 75 mph = 2520 rpm
    AOD reduces 3.73 to 2.49 in OD

    What I have now
    4.11 gears C4 26" tire 75 mph = 4073 rpm
    4.11 gears AOD 26" tire 75mph = 2777 rpm
    AOD reduces 4.11 to 2.75 in OD

    Seems with the AOD I get the best of both worlds. Around town can keep the foot out of it or into it, and on the freeway It's cruising.

    How much are your cross members? Do you have a website? Shipping to NorCal on the 9" is at least 100+.

    Some AOD's I've found
    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/4030485167.html
    http://stockton.craigslist.org/pts/4012196938.html
    http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/4042707095.html

    I appreciate you talking with me about this, I don't really have many to bounce my ideas off of. I do plan to open the motor up and address the issues you brought forth, but again my budget now is just making it driveable. The transmission for sure is bad now. It leaks from the front seal, shifts a little rough, and when i turn off the truck I can hear it rotating and kinda popping sound. I'm thinking of Stopping of course, but right now, I'm just trying to make it drive at all. Then when more budget I put disc in the front. I also have been shopping for a new radiator because when I do the manifold I'll replace the radiator. It seems 64-66 mustang radiators are the right dimensions.

    Thanks
    Andrew
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    Old Skool
    Econoline Guru


    Number of posts : 1306
    Location : North Hills, CA
    Age : 72
    Registration date : 2009-06-13

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    Post by Old Skool Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:49 am

    A BIG advantage of my helping you is stop you from making all the mistakes that I have seen already plundered over the years.  
     Your C4 will take anything that you can throw at it, and I would not get to far into worrying about a hardened and larger shaft unless you are going to go Pro.  I helped build one that Tim in Kentucky now owns and it is a C4. Although far from a stock C4 it also has a 4????? I forgot stroker in it, and we tubbed it also. (two hours to change a rear tire),,,,
     Anyways,, I suspect you may be going a little over board in your research????  RESPECTFULLY,, you need to consider that pickup will only do about 140 mph before it starts being a little scary???
     LOL............????????????????
    I am very pressed for time today, as now Mom is terminal and lots of issues to deal with and on my plate... but dont want you to go down a road you may regret either.
     I have a brand new Mustang radiator here, complete with fan and thermostat, etc if you want to go that way. I am replacing it with a 4 row BRASS 240 radiator.  I can give you a very good deal on that Mustang one if you really want it. There has been chattter about radiators in these trucks for at least 45 years that I can PERSONALLY vouch for !!!!!!!   my first V8 in a 63....
     The Mustang AND the aluminum ones on Ebay are shorter in height than the 240, which directly transfers into less cooling surface. About 18" wide by about 4" in height right off the bat !!!
     You WILL need my trans cooler setup (which I make ZERO off of)  and for sure the Ford 3G alternator as it puts out 90 AMPS at 600 rpm.   will get into that more when I have some more time.
     IF you were to put in a big stroker in that truck I could see going up to a 31 spline rear end !!!  AND IF YOU are interested I have a custom 9" axle here with Disc brakes I can sell you for a good price.  Personally, I prefer the LIncoln rear dis setup and can send you all the info there....
    You CANNOT BEAT the Econoline 9" rear axle.  If all you are going to do with your motor is put a cam in it, an intake and a carb and good distributor then it will still scream but its not a big motor at all.... IF you are serious about a big mill?????  start with a ROLLER BLOCK,,  and put on some decent breathing AFR or Dart heads or the likes.  Those cast iron heads do not have raised ports and will only flow so much no mater who does the porting and polishing !!!!!!!!! You will invest in studs, guide plates, valves and springs and STILL ONLY HAVE CAST IRON breathing heads.  EVEN if you make the change to some GT 40P HEADS,, it is still a bad investment versus some good heads.

    MY POINT IS,,,,,,,,  be aware of who and what you are listening too, to include myself and be reasonable about your expectations. Listen to some who have crossed your path many times already,,,,,,,,  
     It sound like perhaps ANOTHER one of those installs,,,,,,,,,KRUD !!!!     The trans tail stock needs to go!!!  and as yours is an early it will need the transmission cross member at the very least. It will bolt up to any trans of the three so no difference there at all. Regards to the engine cross member???????????? YOU NEED ONE if you dont have one now. IT WILL CRACK YOUR frame from the motors torque lifting up the drivers side and pushing down on the passengers side. IF THERE  is not a cross member to absorb it and spread the forces, YOU WILL crack the frame. I hope you have a good one in there. HOWEVER if the person already used the wrong tail stock now,, I have my doubts as to the rest of it???  From you you tube,,, it looks like the front of the oil pan is rear ward of the front axles tie rod as it should be but perhaps too far rear ward as ALSO the picture of hte back of the motor looks too far jammed to the back of the doghouse??  Just my 1st observation,...  ALSO,,, use the motor craft SHORT WATER PUMP,, ( standard rotation for the standard rotation timing cover)...
    IMO,,,  Get a roller block, some good heads, good ignition and fuel system, a 3G alternator, Taurus 4500 CFM fan and shroud, 240 four row radiator, remote fan cooled transmission cooler, an AOD and an Econoline 28 spline 9" rear axle, 67 master cylinder, front disc brakes and good THREE POINT harness and a roll cage... LOL....

    I will TRY to get back to the thread as soon as I can,, its already TOO HOT to work on things so gotta go..


    I have some EXCELLENT threads and links as to the 9" rear axle, the cooling system, the alternators and why, a VERY LONG AND EXCELLENT thread about the C4 and the input shafts, AOD's,,,
    vic
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    Vannin Ken
    Vannin Ken


    Number of posts : 292
    Location : Brighton,MI
    Registration date : 2012-12-29

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    Post by Vannin Ken Sat Sep 07, 2013 5:17 am

    Very interesting post since i have been working on the same thing with a 200 with a C4 auto. One thing at time. I sure would like to find the 64 drop down hangars so i dont have to shim the originals down to match engine and trans height in a 62.I like the to get the short tail shaft from a 2nd Gen.,so i can use the stronger trans mount. The 64 tail shaft with the donut mount looks a little fraile.Thanks Vic for all the insight on this issue..Hope Mom gets better. Good Luck Eco Pu!
    EcoPU
    EcoPU


    Number of posts : 104
    Location : Oakland, CA
    Registration date : 2013-08-28

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    Post by EcoPU Sat Sep 07, 2013 8:07 am

    Vic,

    Real sorry to hear about your Mom, my condolences in this hard time.


    I've made a video of the underside of truck

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLBQRFw-PtM

    A neighbor was driving by while I was changing the shocks and thought I had an 8" rear end, so maybe you can clarify from the picture. If i do have an 8", I'll just use that, have it rebuilt. It also looks like I do have a cross member that runs under the tranny. The engine has two mounts that have been welded to the frame rails on each side and bolt to the motor, but don't go under it.

    I don't plan to go pro or even race haha. I just want a strong daily driver that I'm able to have some fun in from time to time. I don't think I'd even want to get close to 140 in it haha. I have a motorcycle for that kind of fun. I think I'll keep the engine pretty mild.It's already a lot of HP for a light weight truck. I really just want to be able to drive it reliably.

    Thanks for your time, I'm sure you're real busy.
    EcoPU
    EcoPU


    Number of posts : 104
    Location : Oakland, CA
    Registration date : 2013-08-28

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    Post by EcoPU Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:17 am

    Got the acetone out so I could clean the tag on the rear end.

    WCZ-F1
    3.006LB931

    Which should be - http://www.fordification.com/tech/rearends_ford02.htm

    WCZ-F
    Comet '65 SW
    Cougar '67-68
    Falcon '64
    Mustang '65-71

    3.00 8 in NL 28

    This is good news for my low budget, looks like I don't need to replace the rear end. Odd that I can only go 60 mph right now, maybe the c4 isn't shifting into 3rd. So now I just have to decide on rebuilding the c4, or swap with an AOD.
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    Old Skool
    Econoline Guru


    Number of posts : 1306
    Location : North Hills, CA
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    Post by Old Skool Sat Sep 07, 2013 10:05 am

    Surely sounds like it,,,, GREAT NEWS if so. I just posted some pictures for you and will post a link as but will have get it and come back with another post ,,, I hope this is not ANOTHER long post that Yahoo has tossed again, as I dont see popping up yet,,,,,,,,, really aggravates me when I spend all the time, post it and it doesnt come up,, KRUD,,,,,
    VIC

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    Old Skool
    Econoline Guru


    Number of posts : 1306
    Location : North Hills, CA
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    Post by Old Skool Sat Sep 07, 2013 10:20 am

    MAN that REALLY AGGRAVATES me to go through such a long detailed post and Yahoo tosses it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Will try later on again,,, KRUD
    Here is a link and the pics that didnt post,,, aggravated,,,,,,  details all about torque, full cross member, cracked frames, rear axles,,,, raspberryzzzzzzz

    Last pic of ANOTHER botched V8 install, the person did not know that the frame was not at 90 degrees and tried to weld in a piece of angle iron to add the outboard frame mount for the V8 cross member.  I use the 65 to 67 full cross member, but have a jig fixture to construct new towers onto it that set the drive line angles and the correct placement... man I hate trying to remember all the stuff I typed before,,,,,,,,,,,,

    vic


    ~~~~~~~it better post this time !!!!!!!



    Here is an EXCELLENT link to the rear axles,,,,

    http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm


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