Early GM Power Steering?

I found these on a GM diff out back, they fit the tie rod sleeve perfect and theyb are strong. (U joint clamps) They will work as part of the cylinder attach to the tie rod.





M1D

Lookin good!

Built up the bracket to attach the cylinder to the tie rod





Its made out of 1/4" 2" X 2" angle iron. and will use some GM "U": joint bolts to attach it to the tie rod sleave as seen above.

M1D.

Well I put the tie rod end together tonight









with a new boot




m1d

Great work...as usual M1D!!!!!
B.W.

Won't hurt it a single bit! Strong axles!
B.W.

Old time drag racers drilled 8 to 10 one inch holes to reduce wieght. Then bounced big blocks up and down doing wheelies all day long for years. It was usually the spindle or hub that broke first.

downward Forces allpied by the leaf springs are resisted on the spindle side of the axle. The centre section of the axle does not carrry near as much loading in any direction, it mainly keeps the two sides tied together. I think if you applied enough force to break that axle with a hole drilled in it you would likely tear the leaf spring perches off the body first.
M1D

AS it turns out to my suprise, the local NAPA dealer makes hydraulic hoses.
They lent me a fitting catalog so I could pick what I needed and today I ordered up some hoses. which will be ready thursday.

at this site

http://www.greenlinehose.ca/_pdf/pulsar/Crimp_Couplings.pdf


for the cylinder hoses at 47" long I used the 9242-05-04 fitings found at the top of page 22. they have the fitings in all angles that will be good for the GM valve as well.

The pump hoses: the return is easy because you just use flaired tubing with rubber clamped as required. The presure hose is different of couse.

I used a 34" long hose with the 3215/3415 fitings. These are 37* flair fittings. Most automotive use 45* but aviation and most other industrial uses 37*. which is convienient for me as I have 37* flairing tools. I will take the steel tube coming out of the punp on the old pressure line, cut and flair it to attach this hose to. Same at the valve end using the 0005 sleeve and 0035 nut found at the top of page 67 on this link http://www.greenlinehose.ca/_pdf/pulsar/Adapters.pdf

This attach method is more work but I trust it much more.

You could do as the CCP hoses come. They have fittings that have the nut and furrel to clamp onto your steel lines. You would use the 9215V/9415V "flairless" fittings found at the top left of page 11.

these hose fitting come in many fastions including feild changable fitting you could use to make up hoses in your garrage.

Check the links into these catalogs on this link
http://www.greenlinehose.ca/pulsar.htm

M1D

Probobly the only early still on my van is the steering colum, wheel and sheet metal all around.

I have 1988 Trans am GTA engine, trany, wireing, electric cooling fans and seats.
1980 camaro 10 bolt rear end.
front disc brake mod, rear 1988 camaro disc brakes. "Tuff Stuff" brake booster and master cylinder, same as 70 corvette.
1979 trans-am brake rotors 74 chev van/nova callipers.
1957 chev belair spring shackles.
69 GMC van dog house, 4 core V8 automatic rad.
1988 Chev Van FI gas tank.
will be all autometer gauges.
69 mercury cougar PS valve and cylinder.
64 corvair car park brake handle.
will be getting a rear seat from a 90's dodge van that folds down into a 6' bed.
tons of other little parts from I don't know how many different vehicles and
after market manufacturues.
Oh ya, plenty of scavenged aircraft parts and hardware as well.
I told you guys this was a real to life "Frankenstien creation".
Like I said the only real thing still original early is the sheet metal and not even that is true with the different dog house.

M1D

Its the 305 tuned port injection (TPI) with the mostly electric 700r4 so yes all the computer and wireing and emision controls that go with it.

the rear gear is 3:42 posi, its a little too tight for the 90" van . a 308 open would probobly be a better choice. I'm not sure what size the gas tank is but its bigger then the 2nd gen, I think its a 33 gallon

I have enjoyed following this thread alot. I was wondering if the ball joints are the same on both ends of the stock draglink and if it would be feasable to tap a section of 4130 on both ends and make an adjustable drag link that way, using jam nuts?

I certainly see no reason not to! Hey Digz...what was the actual part # for your rear Disc Brake hoses ? I'm just about ready to button mine up and am at a Stalemate on the rear hoses???
B.W.

Thanks Don, I have thought of that, in fact have a set of SS from CCP sitting on the bench, but they are only 12" long and I believe too short???

I noticed on mine with just a 2 inch lift it changed the steering wheel, Just was confirming whether or not the G30 tie rod ends matched our drag links joints.. Im going to be using steel to hose on the rear brakes got some retainer tabs to weld on the axle tube.

Not yet Don , I got it all bolted back on right now, was hoping I could maybe get one built in my spare time without tearing it apart again right now. I have a 1 ton chevy truck thats got alot of new steering hardware on it to that can be salvaged, I will cross check those with the van #s if M1 thniks it will work.That pic you have of the adjustable drag is just what I was thinking of.

According to the current Truckin magazine (Volume 35, #8, 2009) the new Chevy 'Terrain' comes standard with Electric Power Steering, and adds about 11 miles of range to each tank of gas.

I know its got to be Rack & Pinion, but thought the electric part was interesting.