Does anybody know where to get an original Dodge 15" steel wheel? The van I just got had a 14" spare on the back.And can anybody tell me how to figure out what size 6 cyl my van has, Is there a code on the block?
+2
67Dodger
RodStRace
6 posters
Wheels & Engine
RodStRace- Number of posts : 3046
Location : Chino Valley
Registration date : 2010-01-21
- Post n°2
Re: Wheels & Engine
Finding an original 15" wheel of that era is kind of tough, due to the Super Stock guys (resto and clone) that want 'em.
Do a search here, I laid out the differences in early and late wheels.
If you just need any old 15" wheel for a spare, it's pretty easy to find a later one.
EDIT here's the link. I really should just post a This Is How It's Done post on wheels.
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t34085-stock-type-wider-wheels
Slant sixes were 170 or 225 originally. It could have been swapped at any time over the years, so the ID tag isn't the best way to determine it.
The 225 and 198 are taller block than the 170. The quickest, easiest way to spot the difference is the bypass hose length. If it's too short to remove and replace without removing the WP or head, it's a 170. If it can be R&R'ed, it's a tall deck engine, probably a 225.
More info here
http://www.allpar.com/slant6.html
The first one (silver block, Orange head and tins) is a tall deck.
The second one is too, but the bypass hose is Orange, not the Black cap on the heater hose fitting.
If you scroll down to the B&W picture that shows a 1960 Hyper-Pak engine with a Valiant sticker on the valve cover and air cleaner (also has a 4BBL!), you can make out the shorter bypass hose.
Allpar is very sticky about posting their pictures on other sites, so I have not linked them here. I hope the descriptions will guide you.
http://www.slantsix.org/
This site has articles that cover the casting numbers for the parts so you can get pretty specific about what you have.
Do a search here, I laid out the differences in early and late wheels.
If you just need any old 15" wheel for a spare, it's pretty easy to find a later one.
EDIT here's the link. I really should just post a This Is How It's Done post on wheels.
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t34085-stock-type-wider-wheels
Slant sixes were 170 or 225 originally. It could have been swapped at any time over the years, so the ID tag isn't the best way to determine it.
The 225 and 198 are taller block than the 170. The quickest, easiest way to spot the difference is the bypass hose length. If it's too short to remove and replace without removing the WP or head, it's a 170. If it can be R&R'ed, it's a tall deck engine, probably a 225.
More info here
http://www.allpar.com/slant6.html
The first one (silver block, Orange head and tins) is a tall deck.
The second one is too, but the bypass hose is Orange, not the Black cap on the heater hose fitting.
If you scroll down to the B&W picture that shows a 1960 Hyper-Pak engine with a Valiant sticker on the valve cover and air cleaner (also has a 4BBL!), you can make out the shorter bypass hose.
Allpar is very sticky about posting their pictures on other sites, so I have not linked them here. I hope the descriptions will guide you.
http://www.slantsix.org/
This site has articles that cover the casting numbers for the parts so you can get pretty specific about what you have.
67Dodger- Number of posts : 78
Location : Phoenix, Oregon
Registration date : 2013-02-10
- Post n°3
Re: Wheels & Engine
I may have a set of original 15" wheels and caps. I will check in my shop. I dropped my truck with 14s so my wife could get in easier.
Guest- Guest
- Post n°4
Re: Wheels & Engine
Ok Thanks.....Now I am trying to find a new gas tank,not having any luck
RodStRace- Number of posts : 3046
Location : Chino Valley
Registration date : 2010-01-21
- Post n°5
Re: Wheels & Engine
Guest- Guest
- Post n°6
Re: Wheels & Engine
I found some 15" stock steel wheels. Believe it or not they are from a Studebaker Lark that we junked. Exact same wheel, even my center caps fit perfectly. I finally found a radiator guy that is going to boil and seal my gas tank at the tune of $300-$400 bucks, oh well nuttin is cheep these days.Next is to hunt down some fuel lines and I will be in business. Thanks to all for your help, I will be bask soon, i'm sure the fun has just begun.
busman78- Number of posts : 483
Location : Oklahoma City, OK
Registration date : 2012-07-11
- Post n°7
Re: Wheels & Engine
$300 to $400 to boil and seal you need to do some calling around, I just paid $150, find another shop.
Guest- Guest
- Post n°8
Re: Wheels & Engine
Anybody know where to find fuel lines for these vans? none on ebay
slowflapper- Number of posts : 957
Location : GA
Age : 55
Registration date : 2010-07-29
- Post n°9
Re: Wheels & Engine
cowboy65 wrote:I found some 15" stock steel wheels. Believe it or not they are from a Studebaker Lark that we junked. Exact same wheel, even my center caps fit perfectly. I finally found a radiator guy that is going to boil and seal my gas tank at the tune of $300-$400 bucks, oh well nuttin is cheep these days.Next is to hunt down some fuel lines and I will be in business. Thanks to all for your help, I will be bask soon, i'm sure the fun has just begun.
yikes!
I paid $125 to vat and refurb my gas tank.
slowflapper- Number of posts : 957
Location : GA
Age : 55
Registration date : 2010-07-29
- Post n°10
Re: Wheels & Engine
cowboy65 wrote:Anybody know where to find fuel lines for these vans? none on ebay
Go to any auto parts store (Advance, AutoZone, O' Reilly), they have metal tubing (brake line) in various sizes, use a tubing bender to take it where you want it. Rubber fuel line is there as well obviously.
Guest- Guest
- Post n°11
Re: Wheels & Engine
All the advise has been awesome, just ran my new fuel line,had my tank boiled,sealed.Went to check oil before starting it up for the first time in 23 years,and the dip stick tube broke off at the block. Just another time consuming problem. only way I can get it out is to drop pan and knock it out.Now my problem is I cannot find the dipstick tube anywhere. I never knew these vans were so hard to find parts for,however I love a challenge.
dix- Moderator 1st Class
- Number of posts : 8769
Location : pittsburgh pa
Age : 67
Registration date : 2008-05-29
- Post n°12
Re: Wheels & Engine
the end of the tube should not drop down. And still should come up to come out
_________________
still vannin since 1974
A100 Wrench- Number of posts : 572
Location : Sunnyslope,AZ
Registration date : 2013-05-12
- Post n°13
removal
Thread a tap or screw into the tube piece.Clamp on vice grips and tap with hammer.Also spray with penetrating oil.What size motor do you need a dipstick tube for?
dix- Moderator 1st Class
- Number of posts : 8769
Location : pittsburgh pa
Age : 67
Registration date : 2008-05-29
- Post n°15
Re: Wheels & Engine
cowboy when i broke mine i had a hard time finding one .what i had to do was work the old broken tube out. then find anything that did fit. install that, then drain the oil and refill with the amount of oil the book /manual said , then with my dipstick slide it down to read what it said, so i had to extend my tude by about 2 inches. I used a tight fitting rubber hose over the tube till it read correct, and went with that, Also when mine did brake i was 300 miles from home so i cut a small rag and stuffed it in the hole..most of the aftermarket tubes are the wrong leangh... hope this helps
_________________
still vannin since 1974