SL6 engine swap

Hello ,
looking for some info about an engine swap on my 65 A-100 panel van 90 wb it has a 2.8 sl6 3 on the tree and im thinking about swapping to a 76 3.7 sl6 my 170 is old and tired the 225 is a fresh rebuild i want to stay with the sl6 i like it ~~ wondering if i will have any major issues with my swap or if it will bolt right up ~~ thanks in advance

VM2 Jim

As far as I remember if the 170 truly is a 1965 motor it shoud practically swap straight across. Been a few years but I think it was pretty even.

Auto or stick?
Motor mounts should be fine.
Throttle linkage/cable may not be the same. You can swap over your old intake/carb/exhaust or make the newer stuff work.
The biggie will be the back of the crank. If you have an auto, you will need to check the register for the flexplate and the nose of the converter.
If you have a stick, you need to make sure the parts will bolt up and the crank is machined for the input shaft bushing.

EDIT: also, the alt mounts on the left on your van, probably on the right on the late motor. It should bolt up, but check the pulleys to see if they can be swapped too.
The alternators (and wiring and regulators) are different. Use the van stuff.
The late model engine will have an EI dist. Swap your old one in or rewire the van and use the new one for no more points. There are threads here on that.

there should be no issues with that swap at all. but one thing to look for is if the crank has a bushing for the input shaft of thhe trans and if it is tight. your newer engine might have been hooked to an automatic and there would be no bushing at all. good luck......

jkr, I have not done it myself, but the guys over at slant six .org have.

AUTO The converter register is different on early cranks.
Take a look at the Crank section of this chart...
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/parts-matrix/jpg.htm

The way I understand it, an early converter will wobble in a late crank, and a late converter will not fit against an early crank.
STICK The flywheel centering ring on the crank is a different size.
The early flywheel will not fit on a late crank.

thanks everyone for all the information , might just do a rebuild on the 170 , mine is also a 3 on the tree we will see ~~ thanks again

Vanman, price out all the parts and locate a good machinist before deciding.
Parts can get expensive due to limited application, and machine work isn't cheap either.

480 for a master kit
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/rebuildkitschrys.html
900-1200 here (american parts)
http://www.kanter.com/p24-mon.html#mo2

Speed parts
http://www.aussiespeed.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=10&Itemid=33

RodStRace wrote:jkr, I have not done it myself, but the guys over at slant six .org have.

AUTO The converter register is different on early cranks.
Take a look at the Crank section of this chart...
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/parts-matrix/jpg.htm

The way I understand it, an early converter will wobble in a late crank, and a late converter will not fit against an early crank.
STICK The flywheel centering ring on the crank is a different size.
The early flywheel will not fit on a late crank.

interesting bunch of work to come up with this.very detailed too. nice bunch of info to have as well. now all i said or "meant" to say was this should be a simple swap. the difference IF any would be the crankshaft where the input shaft went into it. we all hopefully have some common sense here so a check to make sure things are the same or modified to work the same is all thats required. theres nothing that says his replacement engine is original or even what it appears UNTILL you get them on the floor side by side to compare. what you were told isn't always actually what you have. it comes down to comparing apples to apples not apples to oranges.my second life lesson below is not directed at ANYBODY here or elsewhere but goes straight to the point. an opinion on what you think you have is certainly different than what you eventually find out what exactly you have.
i have learned a couple things on internet fourms and in life;
not everything you read on the internet is fact.
opinions are like a$$holes, everybodys got one and they are all different.
again not directing or implying anything about any one or group so as not to offend anybody,how one reads print on a screen is certainly not what some others might think.

got this little gem ^ for one person on another site who is sure he is always right and proceeds to try to sway everyone to his beliefs.

jkr, I get it!
I just know that trying to install a motor is often under time and space constraints, and not always done checking every little thing before jamming stuff together.
Better to point out the stuff that is really important to check and hopefully plan for before the big rush!
We both pointed out the back of the crank as that area to concentrate on, I just found more info and posted it. I wasn't dumping on you. I was just picturing some guy with one greasy engine over to the side, the other on a hoist, and the trans hanging in the van. It won't fit all the way together and the typical thing to do is to go ahead and tighten the bell housing bolts and suck them together. That will shove the converter into the front pump, requiring the trans to be rebuilt. Better to show that the converter should be removed and held up to the new engine and flexplate to make sure this is fitting properly before you have the engine swinging from the hoist!

Since he's come back and mentioned that the van is a stick, I hope that he looks at the back of the crank and ensures that it is machined for an input shaft bushing and deep enough, not just a rough hole like Chrysler did often to auto cranks by the mid 70s.
Also bolt up the flywheel to the crank and make sure it fits properly. Maybe find a later model flywheel that does fit before starting the swap.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43462&view=next&sid=ff4cc458bb3214405b9e0a02bf46fe56