by Drew Peacock Tue Sep 25, 2012 4:51 amI just rebuilt my Holley 1940 last night and hooked everything backup but may have made an error with how to set the choke dial in the front of it. I am seeking help for the three items below:
1) Choke dial setting when cold or even when up to running temp.
2) The base gasket in the rebuild kit doesnt rally match the flange or base surface on the intake manifold. On the manifold there is a channel machined into the surface which lines up with holes in the butterfly portion of the carb body. Should i cut the gasket to match the little channel that is in the manifold face or just use what was in the 1940 rebuild kit?
3) The biggest issue: It starts when cold and will kick down to the next step in the carb (automatic choke). The top most butterfly (choke) will open a little but never perpendicularly. It will open about half way (45 degrees) and will idle high without the curb idle screw even turned in. The idle mixture screw has some affect when turned in or out and i am starting at the 1 1/2 turns out from stop as recomended. When operating the choke butterfly by hand, if opened all the way up the engine shakes and stumbles violently then dies ESPECIALLY under load in drive with teh brake on. If i go to close it, it of course chokes the engine out.
I cant seem to get this thing to be set right. I used a premium rebuild kit so almost everything is new and all passages are clean. I reset the various arm per the instructions and set teh float as well. It seem to be centered around the choke dial and the choke butterfly at this point. I cannot get a low steady idle as the engine just idles on its own in the second highest step seting on the idler arm. If mes with teh choke dial and get it to stumble i can then use the curb idle screw to get teh revs up but the engne shakes and dies under load at a standstill.
1) Choke dial setting when cold or even when up to running temp.
2) The base gasket in the rebuild kit doesnt rally match the flange or base surface on the intake manifold. On the manifold there is a channel machined into the surface which lines up with holes in the butterfly portion of the carb body. Should i cut the gasket to match the little channel that is in the manifold face or just use what was in the 1940 rebuild kit?
3) The biggest issue: It starts when cold and will kick down to the next step in the carb (automatic choke). The top most butterfly (choke) will open a little but never perpendicularly. It will open about half way (45 degrees) and will idle high without the curb idle screw even turned in. The idle mixture screw has some affect when turned in or out and i am starting at the 1 1/2 turns out from stop as recomended. When operating the choke butterfly by hand, if opened all the way up the engine shakes and stumbles violently then dies ESPECIALLY under load in drive with teh brake on. If i go to close it, it of course chokes the engine out.
I cant seem to get this thing to be set right. I used a premium rebuild kit so almost everything is new and all passages are clean. I reset the various arm per the instructions and set teh float as well. It seem to be centered around the choke dial and the choke butterfly at this point. I cannot get a low steady idle as the engine just idles on its own in the second highest step seting on the idler arm. If mes with teh choke dial and get it to stumble i can then use the curb idle screw to get teh revs up but the engne shakes and dies under load at a standstill.
