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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    250 compression

    sandyvan
    sandyvan


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    Post by sandyvan Sat Sep 15, 2012 1:31 pm

    So I finally got a chance to check the compression on the used motor I picked up. I always pick the hottest days to work on the van.

    Anyway, it reads 150, 120, 150, 150, 150, 90. Not real stoked about the 90, does that indicate a serious issue or maybe just a valve adjustment?
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:19 pm

    Squirt some oil into the spark plug holes of those low cylinders and see if the compression comes up,,,,,if it does not, take the valve cover off and hit the tops of the valves for those cylinders to try and seat them and run the tests again,,,,
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:39 pm

    A cylinder leakdown test will pump air into each cylinder and tell you the percentage of air escaping as well as where it is leaking from......


    250 compression Cyl_le10
    sandyvan
    sandyvan


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    Post by sandyvan Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:23 pm

    Yeah, I was told about the leakdown testers - will it work with a tank of compressed air? I think I read it's only supposed to need 15psi, any more it can move the pistons...???

    I did fill each cylinder via the plug holes with Mystery Oil and let it sit three weeks, and manually cranked it a couple of times each week. Before hooking up the starter today I hand cranked with the plugs out, and no oil squirted out. So I think it successfully seeped through as it was supposed to. Was told it would get rid of any carbon deposits that might cause a false high pressure reading.

    I've been told to pour some Mystery Oil through the oil fill hole too, free up the workings there, but didn't do that yet. I read it's basically a kerosene base fluid. ???

    Hopefully AZ loans out the leakdown testers too....
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:40 pm

    My tester needs 45-150 psi to work,,,,I think your engine was sitting out there in the elements with the valves on those 2 cylinders open and they are rusty and won't seal right now,,,,anything you pour down the oil filler hole just runs down into the pan,,,,and the engine has to be running for the oil pump to distribute it throughout the engine,,,,
    sandyvan
    sandyvan


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    Post by sandyvan Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:55 pm

    OK, so bang on what part? I tapped a bit on the top of some of the springs (hammer on a short block of wood) and not much seemed to happen.


    250 compression Head
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:34 pm

    So which cylinders have low compression? look into the ports on the side of the head and see what the valves look like,,,,,the idea is to turn the balancer until both pushrods of a cylinder are down, which makes the valves closed,,,then hit the springs down to break loose ant rust or dirt on their seats,,,,
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:53 pm

    You could also loosen that rocker nut a certain number of turns, move the rocker out of the way,,,,beat on the valve, let it snap open and shut a few times then put the rocker arm back on the same of turns you backed the nut off,,,,just keep running these tests and see if something changes,,,
    sandyvan
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    Post by sandyvan Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:10 pm

    It's that first cylinder, up by the water pump. I took the rocker arm off completely, but just sort of pinged on the top of the valve. Didn't know how hard to tap it and didn't want to bust anything.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:31 pm

    That is #1 cylinder,,,,and you need to do the first 2 valves on it,,,,bang it so it goes down about 1/4 inch, AFTER you stick a straw or something down into the spark plug hole to see that the piston is not all the way up,,,,,,,that engine has problems in 2 cylinders,,,,and you are just trying to find out how bad those problems are,,,,,
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:55 pm

    Do a compression test on the engine in the van,,,,,you might have to use that head if it is better than the new one,,,,,,
    sandyvan
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    Post by sandyvan Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:35 am

    A dowel goes into the cylinder 5 inches past the plug threads, so it seems as though the piston is down a bit. But I don't see any movement on the valve, giving it a pretty solid hit. But I am not hammering it like you would a big nail. I can see gunk on all the valves, like a Techron commercial. Should I pour a little oil or something on top of each one through the manifold openings and let it sit a bit?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:52 am

    Valves don't move very much in there,,,,,put your finger in the ports and feel the stem as you hit the spring down and feel if it moves down and up,,,,look in all those ports to see how much a valve opens,,,there are always some valves open and they all go up and down as you turn the balancer,,,,tap on another valve to see how it is supposed to move,,,,but it is just one more test to get to the bottom of the low compression readings,,,,,,you could kind of use a crowbar under the nut to try and force the spring down to see if it and the valve actually moves,,,,
    sandyvan
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    Post by sandyvan Sun Sep 16, 2012 3:24 pm

    crowbar? How about I tap the top of the valve with my sledge? haha Anyway, haven't been able to do much, kid wrangling duties today.

    But I'll check the compression on the engine in the van, then pull the battery to retest the "new" one.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Sep 16, 2012 4:56 pm

    A flat washer under the nut on the rocker stud and a crowbar will let you know if the valves will move down, since you say they are not moving at all when you tap down on the springs,,,,and use a board or brass hammer on the end of those valve stems,,,,you still don't know if that engine is any good,,,,,you are probably looking at at least a $200 valve job right now for starters,,,,,


    250 compression Repair97
    sandyvan
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    Post by sandyvan Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:03 pm

    that is one nice looking fuel line...

    After the crowbar check the valves and pushrods move freely, #5 went from 120 to 150, but #1 still stuck at 90 and I gave it several tries. So now I am at 150, 150, 150, 150, 150, 90

    >:-(

    What I can see of the valves and seats, it's pretty gunky in there. Could it be I just need to flush it out somehow for a better seating? Or probably just needs a valve job...

    >>:-(
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:20 pm

    Next test is to adjust the valves on #1 cylinder,,,,,bring the piston up all the way making sure that the pushrods are both down, then loosen the nut until you can spin the pushrod with your fingers,,,,then tighten the nut until you can't spin the pushrod, then crank the nut down 3/4 turn more,,,,,do both valves on #1 cylinder, then see if compression changes,,,,,
    sandyvan
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    Post by sandyvan Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:44 am

    And that should be when the timing mark on the pulley matches the tab on the timing gear cover, right?

    The valves are surely out of adjustment after I messed around with the rocker arms to do the crowbar test.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:48 pm

    The notch can be AM or PM,,,,when it is on the AM position,,,#1 cylinder valves are closed (and can be adjusted) and #6 cylinder valves have the intake closed but the exhaust is open,,,,and on PM, the opposite happens,,,so when the notch is lined up to 0, #1 and 6 pistons are ALWAYS up at their top positions,,,,,but you need to watch the exhaust valve on both cylinders to see if it is safe to adjust the valves,,,,you want the notch on 0 AND the exhaust valve, (and that would mean the pushrod on that rocker pushing up, which is pushing the valve down) open on #6,,,,then that means #1 valves are closed and you can adjust them...

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