Fuel Tank Substitution

Can anyone sugest a good substitute fuel tank for for a 1968 G-10 108???

yes many in the archives -yet the later 2nd gen are larger & after that look for 80's tanks - some are larger too -new straps needed & the rear xmember must be moved to refit - yet been done before .

I plan getting a tank for our 1st Gen from this guy. He makes many different sizes and shapes.

[url=Aluminum Fuel Tanks]http://www.ebay.com/sch/ww8701/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686[/url]

The cost of finding a used one out of a vehicle and redoing it just isnt worth it to me when I can get a new one. I might see if he can make one that will be specific to vans and others could look at getting them. Problem is that Vanners are cheapos and I dont know if he could get any interest in more than one or 2.

Vanners are cheapos???

I think he meens limited budget...lol.

political correction:
"Cheapos" plurel (compensation efficacious)finance, economically challenged person or group of people, one who contemplates expenditures prior to execution or deployment.

Not to be confused with:
"cheap ass" (compensation efficacious anus)finance, economicaly foolish or stupid person, usually retentive in distribution of ones own funds.

m1dadio wrote:political correction:
"Cheapos" plurel (compensation efficacious)finance, economically challenged person or group of people, one who contemplates expenditures prior to execution or deployment.

Not to be confused with:
"cheap ass" (compensation efficacious anus)finance, economicaly foolish or stupid person, usually retentive in distribution of ones own funds.

Rofl! M1D to the rescue!!!!

LOL I read Matts post this morning and LMAO. Ya do have to admit that as a group we are so into DIY that it comes across that way.

Lol Digz it goes a bit further... I will give an example... (and I am not immune to this either!!!)

I (not me but I will lump myself into this...) put in a new carb and I am going to use a different air cleaner. I paid $150 for a nice carb, got the air cleaner for $25 from a parts van, adapter plate for $25. Now instead of going and getting some nice TUBING ($20 maybe??)for a air inlet, I go to Walmart and buy a $3 piece of dryer vent hose to use... Just saying...

I have seen things over the years being here and just shake my head. We will fork out $2000 for a paint job but use duct tape and tarp straps to hold the tranny in place. Not really, but I can see someone doing it!

I seen one guy a few years back spent a bunch of money on a motor and tranny. To put it in he used 4 come alongs on the branch of a HUGE tree to lift the van so put it in from under neither. Now while I found this AWESOME, I just have to say... wow...

Reel it back in guys. I've see alot of jack leg stuff too, but what about the fuel tank? I did go to the archives and for the most part see some good suggestions. I just need to chose fuel injection or carbed. Carbed is usually a suction set up with no recirculation line, just the vapor/carbon canister collection stuff.
Anyone ever try a Jeep Cherekee set up? It fills from the left...

the 3rd gen van tanks are about as close as you will get. around 88 they should fit denentionaly but you have to relocate the filler neck and get custom lenght straps. The filler vent hose will go to the sender which is actually better as the later tanks where built not to overflow on corners.

You can get the sender for carbed or FI to fit that tank and will have to make sure you have a 90 ohn gauge.

http://www.spectrapremium.com/products/fuel_tank.html

you can bring these guys part numbers to any parts suplier

they also still make 2nd gen I6 radiators.

M1D

I've toured the Spectra Premium plant, they are an OEM supplier, not just a knock-off shop.

(The company I work for has sold them stamping equipment)

Spectra still suplies new rads for 2nd gen I6 engines and other Early van stuff if you search their catalog

M1D

Sorry for any confusion, my point was only that they are OEM quality. Yes, they supply repair parts as well.

Kaypee wrote:Reel it back in guys. I've see alot of jack leg stuff too, but what about the fuel tank? I did go to the archives and for the most part see some good suggestions. I just need to chose fuel injection or carbed. Carbed is usually a suction set up with no recirculation line, just the vapor/carbon canister collection stuff.
Anyone ever try a Jeep Cherekee set up? It fills from the left...

How about a jack leg install of a fuel tank?

While I feel slightly at odds having my fuel tank held in by ratchet straps, the whole Red Green suspenders reference the previous owner inadvertently made is kind of awesome. To be honest, if I can get the filler lines to play nice and stop leaking, I'll probably keep it. Going to have to weld in a new cross member and relocate the mounts to hold the tank level though. Once I'm done (which could be a while the way I work on things) I'll give a report.

More info: It looks like the tank under my van was from a 1994 Blazer.

The good: It holds 20 gallons of fuel. The filler hookup is in the right (left?) spot, and the filler vent is located top middle of the tank.
The bad: The tank inlet is designed for a 2" connection, so I'm going to need to either weld on a smaller fitting, or fab up an adapter to go from 1.5" to 2". There's also a mismatch on the filler vent line. I'll also need to move the frame crossmember forward to fit the tank in properly if I can't find anything better. It also has a 90 ohm sending unit, as was discussed earlier in the thread, but I know of a fix or two for that.
The ugly: Pretty much the whole install the PO did. The original filler hose was just stuffed into the hose coming off of the tank, and the same was done with the vent hose. Which explains my leak. They took the fuel pump off of the sending unit, but didn't install a longer pickup tube or a filter of any kind afterward. That explains why I can't seem to get any more than half a tank of fuel into the old girl. (pickup line doesn't reach the bottom of the tank) the wires for the sending unit weren't connected at all, so I'm getting no information of remaining fuel at all. The 'extra' fittings on top of the tank (return line & vapor line) weren't sealed off properly, so they were letting gas vapor escape under the van.
For now I've welded the ends of the extra lines so they don't vent, and tomorrow I'll make a 1.5" to 2" adapter to connect the filler hoses. Some basic plumbing supplies will fix the filler vent hose. I'll get some immersion rated fuel line and try to find or fab a filter for the end so I don't suck crud up into my carbs. I don't want to go any further than that for the moment as I might have a line on a solid tank from a '70 van that I'll swap in if I can get it.

Cool, thanks for the info Donnie. I knew of those, just not where to find one. Now I have a web address and a part number to work off of.

I have seen some interesting thing done in the way of adapting newer fuel tanks the mid to late 80s seem to work the best the later ones have a low pressure fuel pump but must b regulated down to 6-8 psi at carb Also. Being the frugal group of people we are. Boat parts offer lots of options I have an old 60 throttle/shifter I used for my auto trans swap bolted to side of doghouse lid and when it's in park it swings down outta the way plus it's clean and the cable just runs back behind the motor very easy set up I used the throttle cable cause finding v8 linkage isnt gonna happin so the cable hooked to the pedal and a nice l braket made it all work smoothly