by Drew Peacock Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:49 pmI took the sender unit out of the gas tank and shook it and heard rattling. After opening the little box, i found the copper arm that rotates with the float arm and contacts the boxes radius wall had fallen/snapped off. I epoxied it back on the arm and i heard it scraping the radius in the box when i move the float arm but the fuel gauge on the dash doesn't respond and way the arm is positioned. Did i mess something up by epoxying the copper piece back on? Do i need fuel in the tank for it to actually start registering? i put the unit in the tank and checked again and that didn't help anything.
4 posters
fuel guage sending unit help
Drew Peacock- Number of posts : 63
Location : Jersey
Registration date : 2012-08-21
Twinpilot001- Number of posts : 6186
Location : spokane ,Wa.
Registration date : 2009-09-28
Twinpilot001- Number of posts : 6186
Location : spokane ,Wa.
Registration date : 2009-09-28
Drew Peacock- Number of posts : 63
Location : Jersey
Registration date : 2012-08-21
C&G also has them as well, but was hoping i could diagnose or having someone on here help me with a mistake i might have made in my repair and the way im testing my repair. The first link is a good one for me as they are only a few hours away. Thanks for that.
Mr Hill Billy- Number of posts : 213
Location : Oklahoma
Registration date : 2009-12-23
the copper arm carries current so it needs to have continuity .Solder repair is best also needs a button on the end to contact the coil inside .
Drew Peacock- Number of posts : 63
Location : Jersey
Registration date : 2012-08-21
So my epoxy fix was the problem it sounds like - what do you mean by a 'button' on the end? what type of button and at the end of what? When you say coil inside, do you mean the piece that the copper arm scrapes against? I don't recall seeing any coil of the whole sender piece.
Mr Hill Billy- Number of posts : 213
Location : Oklahoma
Registration date : 2009-12-23
button is like a spot of solder at the end of the copper piece that contacts the coil.Yes what i call the coil is the piece the copper arm scrapes against.It also must have contiuity from one end to the other.Also make sure your ground to the sender is good.Drew Peacock wrote:So my epoxy fix was the problem it sounds like - what do you mean by a 'button' on the end? what type of button and at the end of what? When you say coil inside, do you mean the piece that the copper arm scrapes against? I don't recall seeing any coil of the whole sender piece.
Murdock- Number of posts : 313
Location : Seattle, WA
Registration date : 2010-12-29
You can also take your sending unit on the bench and test it with a DMM. Clip the ground the the face and the positive to the stud, you should see the resistance change as you move it (I'm guessing in the neighborhood of 0-100 ohms).
You might end up spending more money in time on the old one than replacing it. I went through the same then I found it on page 100 of the Pick Up catalog at Obsolete and Classic Auto Parts or even on Amazon. It was well worth the headache savings to me to just replace it.
I also found that the gasket they send with those do not fit exactly. I ended up ordering this kit from Summit and it worked great.
You might end up spending more money in time on the old one than replacing it. I went through the same then I found it on page 100 of the Pick Up catalog at Obsolete and Classic Auto Parts or even on Amazon. It was well worth the headache savings to me to just replace it.
I also found that the gasket they send with those do not fit exactly. I ended up ordering this kit from Summit and it worked great.
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