GEAR RATIOS AGAIN , BRAKES ,AND I CAN BREATH

Ok ,been having a problem getting worse on my stock 153 four ,a cutting out that got worse as appling more gas while moving . again i./m no mech, niether play one on tv . finally got it looked at today , was blessed to find out the cheap pep boys chrome /and paper filter air cleaner wasnt letting no where near enough air flow ,changed air cleaner ,now purring like a 4 cylinder kitten .

but mech said in the future maybe think about this single barrel (magna flow w/electric choke i tthink) might be better if replaced by a original to 65 van single barrel, and go back w orig oil bath cleaner . i saw a thread here or vcvc , w/ someone selling nos or rebuilt 65 chevy single barrel carbs .anybody know about them and if they would fit a 65 153 ?
also might be looking for a small step(money wise) to better brakes . looking for info to sw/ 1st gen single brake set to duel set up ,maybe disc later .

also on rear end ratios , i got to raise up rear end and do the wheel /driveshaft turn thing /
the drive shaft turned 1 3/4 to the 15 in tire turned 1 full turn , so
the ratio would be ..........?



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This is the carb link, I meant to post it over here too but forgot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Carter-1Bbl-YF-Carburetor-4376S-fits-1962-1967-Chevrolet-Van-GMC-Van-NEW-/180770936602?hash=item2a16c9971a&item=180770936602&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

It's a 4376S which is different than what Don is saying came on the vans, but they claim in their ad it is correct. They are a carb shop in New Jersey and it sounds like they have a lot of everything. My only complaint is that they said they would start the kit that day or the next and ship it right out but it took two weeks. Turns out I didn't need it quick anyway so I wasn't too bothered. I was bothered they tacked on $15 to my Visa for shipping without informing me, so make sure you get everything agree upon up front.

OK I see now that once I again, I shoulda done more research - the one I bought may or may not work for whatever replacement engine I get.

Here is an interesting link for seeing what you should need (and matches Don's #'s for your van)

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/TruckkitsC.htm

.on beefing up stock brakes inexpensively , is there a duel master cylinder that will bolt up in that small area in a 1st gen .

No duel master cylinder is a direct bolt in.

You have to cut out some of the master cylinder bracket , then many duel cercuit master cylinders will fit onto the same bolting mount as the original. This will be manual brakes only, If you want power brakes thats whole different ball game requiring much fabrication and relocation of the master.

If you have a sway bar it will have to be spaced down from the frame mounts by 2" using blocks and longer bolts. If you do that you also have to notch out the belly pan to clear the lowered sway bar.

Since you are going duel circuit this will be the time to replace all the steel brakes lines with new cuz its cheep to do and its a saftey issue.

You can use the early 70's corvete style master, you will need the one with the "deep hole" for the brake linkage push rod and you should go for the 1" bore. This will work well for Drum/Drum and Disc/Drum set ups. You should use two 10lb residual check valves, one in each drun brake circuit.

When you go to discs you will need to change just that circuit to a 2 lb residual check valve and you may need to add an adjustable proportioning valve into the rear circuit

you can read some more about it here.

http://www.vintage-vans.com/discbrakeinstallation.html


M1D

ok i see one on ebay , but it says power only . so if i intend just to make separate front and back lines only ,not disc or power brakes , this unit wouldnt work?

is that a new floor pan ? i guess you couldnt use the orig. 1st gen round access hole, and what is that piece thats cut iout

dude , thanks for the info , that i/ll need to take to my mech friend. is there a certain model number 69 master cylinder (i noticed on ebay there were diff. numbers). and i guess you can still access the lid thru orig. round floor hole
also do i have to think about any of this i found on another thread


((((((Here are the basic requirements to be considered.

#1 Need to know if and what residual check valves are inside a master. Masters came with all kinds of arrangements of built in residual check valves depending on what vehicle they where made for. Unfortunately the only way I know of being sure is to know what the brakes will act like if you have the residual valves wrong. So I choose a master cylinder that has none, and I added then to the outside. ( or this )
Our vans need residual valves for each circuit whether it’s a disc/disc or disc/drum or drum/drum set up. Street rods and vehicles like our vans which have the master at or close to the same level as the calipers will gravity feed the fluid back to and overflow the master (a sure sign of this is always having to pump the brake once even though there is no air in the system). This can be prevented with the use of a single 10lb residual valve on the drum brake line and especially a single 2 lb residual valve on the disc brake line mount just out side the master cylinder. Residual valves will also attribute to a better brake pedal feel.They are available from aftermarket suppliers.))))))))))))



thanks for all info w/ parts mentioned in your pic , that should take care of all basic needs for a duel change over drum/drum > again your info looks so clear to me , i do appreciate it , just wanted to clear up the earlier stuff i read ,i think that had to do w the corvette master.

The reason most all aftermarket suopliers provide the corvette style master cylinder is because it has no built in residual check valves. You need to know what your master has or not because disc brakes and drum brakes use different valves. With no valves in the master you know what you have and can add what ever you need on the outside.

E bay sellers and other parts counter people often say a master is power or manual and they have no idea why they are saying that other then a book infront of them says it was used on a power brake application in some other car.

You are building a customised brake system and YOU need to know what you are installing and why.

So here it is, absolutly the ONLY difference between a power master ond a manual master is the depth of the hole where the brake pedal push rod inserts. Other things can be different in any master cylinders but thats for other reasons.

If you are going manual, you need the deep hole (not the shallow hole).

The bore size has to do with the size of the wheel cylionders and or disc caliper pistons sizes and numbers and the brake pedal ratio plus some other factors.
I can't explain it all here unless you want to sign up for an automotive engineering course. For what you say you want to do I recomend a 1" bore master with a deep hole and no built in residual check valves.

Like the 2021NB found on this link

http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/Category_ID=210/home_id=-2/mode=cat/cat210.htm

If you are going to install anything else, you need to find out if and what it has for built in check valves.

Also you need to know which port out of the master is for the rear brakes and which is for the front brakes. "It makes a difference" most GM masters use the port closest to the mounting bolts for the rear brakes, however I do think the 2nd gen master is opposite to that. Most fords , some dodges and some inports are reveresed to that, you can't go by the size of the reseviour.
Look here
http://www.mpbrakes.com/uploads/documents/mcplumbingpdf.pdf

hope this helps.
M1D