250 ci with 4 barrel / clearance issues ???

Scott wrote:The more aftermarket stuff I added to my L6, the more I had to buy to make it work. If I had a do-over I would probably make the jump to a v8, or keep the L6 stock. My Offy intake pushed the carb to the wall. If I hadn't dropped the engine to accommodate the 200-4r transmission the Holley linkage wouldn't have fit. And when I had the Edelbrock, it was rubbing the paint off the doghouse lid.

And with a v8 you will have way more parts to choose from..

And once you hop-up your L6, it's just as thirsty as a small V8.

I originally kept my L6 because everyone always jumps to a V8. Kind of a coolness factor. Well, I should have kept it stock, it cost way to much to make the aftermarket stuff work / fit right.

Now that it's running I'm happy with it, but the V8 would have been much more simple, and less money.


Either way you go, I'm looking forward to pictures of your build.

Here's a couple of pictures of the two carbs I was working with.. The Edelbrock 600cfm was to much for the 250 L6. So I switched to the Holley 390cfm.

This one is the Edelbrock,


Here's the Holley,


As you can see, the Holley linkage is just under where the doghouse gets a little wider.

Scott wrote:If I hadn't dropped the engine to accommodate the 200-4r transmission

VANagain wrote:This weekend I made these spacer blocks to lower my engine 1 inch. This is to level out the whole engine/tranny since there isn't room to get the 700R4's tailshaft as high as it should be. Fortunately that engine crossmember makes it real easy. (Hard to believe the whole engine is hanging on just four bolts!) I bought four longer bolts, 1/2-13 x 2.75", Grade 8 so they're strong enough. And then, since you can see these block when you look in the wheel well, I got a little carried away.



I wanted them to look like stock parts, not just square blocks. Fortunately aluminum is real easy to work with. I picked up two chunks of aluminum: 2" x 1" x 12" for $6 each. The van's frame is 2.5" wide, with 1/4" radius corners, so the 2" blocks sit real nice on the flat bottom of the frame. Then I thought they would look nicer if they were a bit longer than the crossmember width, so I cut them 8.5" long. And I gave the ends a 15 degree angle to match how the frame angles down for the spring shackles. These cuts were made easy by using my table saw. If you use a carbide tipped blade and go slow, aluminum cuts just fine! Then I change the angle of the blade from 15 to 45 degrees so I could chamfer the edges! This was a good headstart on rounding the edges, which I finished with a course file. It took a while, and I worked up quite a sweat, but I really like how they turned out!

Oh, and don't make the same mistake I did. The front of the driver's side block needs to be shorter to allow room for the parking brake "wheel" bracket. Now I have to cut that end off and do some more filing!