Thermostat, yes or no?

My Econoline pu with 302 small block is running at 220 plus. It reaches 250 before I head for home..it does not go down while driving. I have made a vent for air to get to the radiator which I have an electric van attached to. I just installed a flex fan and cut a vent in the rear wall so air would flow...no improvement..took the thermostat out tonite and it had a 195 stat.
I am trying to decide if I should run without a stat, have read many different opinions on this. It could make the engine run rich, develop "hot spots" etc etc.
or
should I go with a lower stat like a 160? will this help it run cooler?
Anyone run without a stat? any problems?

I would try a 160 thermostat. I wouldn't run without one.

After reading some of the posts by the other guys, I'd try running with your DH lid open and grab a set of ear plugs and roll the windows down. That might tell you if your running into an air dam problem at speed. Is the temp running with the thermostat at stopped or slow speeds?

Maybe just a bad thermostat. I put a new one in. If you plan on driving in cooler to cold weather a 160 thermostat won't give you much heat in the cab though. I've had good luck with a 180, but I only have a 240/6 not a V8, so maybe a 160 is good there.

Hey Donn sorry to hear about your problem...

Is this a new problem ?
Did motor run fine before ?
Or
Is this a fresh motor ?

Stat-yes! 180=yes, remember these vans were not designed to have any cooling problems, when new- look for air or water flow slowing up?? maybe possible block/head problems =? if heating up quickly.

Im glad you posted this, because ive been wondering this myself. The 200ci motor im about to put in does not have a thermostat in it (came to me that way) and I wasnt sure on which temp to install.

I used to run a 160 degree in the summer in my Chevy & a 185 or 190 degree in the winter. I couldn't find a 160 degree stat last year & had to stick with a 185 or 190 degree stat. If your cooling system is working properly & you have no problems with the engine a 160 degree stat makes a big difference in the summer time.

good to know HandiVanMan our summers in Texas are harsh and our winters are mild. Id imagine not to different from GA.

I think that y'all get a little hotter in the summer than us but not much though. Installing a shut off for the heater core helps out a lot to in the summer.

I yanked a 180. and installed a 160. now i bought a hi volume 160 stat. just haven't installed it yet. but my vote is a 160 stat.

put in a 160 today and no improvement..still hot 250
ripping it out tomorrow and trying no stat..I'm getting desperate..and pissed, not something you want to do over and over..

maybe something else??? Radiator??? water pump????

Maybe a blowed head gasket if not the water pump or radiator. Possibly even could be a cracked head.

Im quite interested in your final results... I just had some overheating issues with my 6, the radiator was a two core and was partially restricted with crud, put in a new 3 core and now it seems ok.. What radiator are you running? New? Aluminum? 3 or 4 core?

Try just cutting the guts out of a stock t-stat, so you end up with a large washer. That way it will have close to the same flow rate. I've done that in the past with no problems.

How old is the water pump? I've seen the "back plate" of the pump rot and the pump will not move the water right.

Does your intake have room for a coolant crossover?

My wife's old turbo car had an issue like this and someone told me about this. I drilled and tapped the rear of the intake and ran a hose from side to side. This helped us a lot.

Here is the only pic i can find of it.

is the belly pan in place.??? and the shroud.??? did you flush out the rad.??? it may be bad.

Donn, the reason I asked if the motor was new was because back in H.S. a buddy of mine put the Head Gasket on wrong and blocked a water jacket.. could be something stupid like that..
The same guy also put his brake pads on backwards(metal facing rotor) just last year..

Put in a moroso restrictor, which is like a big washer..same problem. Really starting to get pissed now!
Motor is fine, no head prob etc.New rad 3 core, new hoses, open rad cap and fluid is flowing..
I do have the belly pan on. Monday taking the belly pan off. going to take as much of the floor, old heater type box, which I built into a ram air sort of tunnel using the old door that drops down to get air to the motor. Going to take the entire box out and see if that helps.
I am an expert at taking stats out now.

what do you have for a fan? if its a clutch fan, clutch could be bad and only turning at idle. if its electric, is it correct direction and enough cfm? are rad hoses kinked/ bent too sharp or colapsing? motor running right? timing off, either distributor or chain off a tooth?

Ill ask about this? have you replaced the water pump? what type are u using? Brand? Steel/ alunimum?? Whats changed before you had this problem show up??

Donn,
When you put the flex fan on it did you put a spacer on it?
The fan might need to be spaced up closer to the radiator for maximum cooling.