Parking Brake

wondering where I would be able to find new parking brake cables or if I would be able to make my own or fix the ones I have. The drive side cable barely moves. Thanks

I could use one myself, looking for right rear?

Have you tried Mac's? Lokar is pricey, but they should be able to set you up with the right stuff. I have the first part, but need the 2nd part that connects to the actual brakes. I'll probably go with Lokar or similar.

While your under there...check the pully on the bottom of the E-Brake handle. These I found to be 2 piece and will open up and bind on the cable, not allowing the E-Brake to disingauge when your ready to roll... Very easy to make a new one piece pully.

..Using a brass or hard plastic hammer, tap on the edge and make the pully narrower to match the original and drill out the center to fit the factory ford pin and your done. You may have to sand down the OD of new pully to fit in E-Brake bracket so it will spin freely and that should do it....I did this becus I could not find a good original, and I prefer a one piece pully.

Great tips, while I'm under there, I'll check. Looks easy enough to make.

The outer jacket is made from a galvinized or stainless cable, so if you take the whole thing off the van, coil it up and soak it in solvent. It will loosen up the grunge. Then work the inner cable back and forth, wiping the grime, resoaking, reworking and rewiping until it works smooth. Then blow it all off with air, they will come out good as new. I threw mine into the blast cabinet with crushed glass first and they really clean up well.

There are two different cables used. 61-64 uses a one peice cable for both sides, 65-67 have a left and a right cable. I have some good used 65-67 cables.
Fred

Kilroy wrote:The outer jacket is made from a galvinized or stainless cable, so if you take the whole thing off the van, coil it up and soak it in solvent. It will loosen up the grunge. Then work the inner cable back and forth, wiping the grime, resoaking, reworking and rewiping until it works smooth. Then blow it all off with air, they will come out good as new. I threw mine into the blast cabinet with crushed glass first and they really clean up well.

I was considering doing just that, Ill just put that on my huge list of things to do!

I have anodized aluminum, stainless steel and nylon e brake wheels for sale already, as far as the E brake cable to the rear axles go, you can interchange a small axle cable with a 9" axle e brake cable, as long as they are the same year for the mounting plates on the truck. The earlies had a one pc cable and the lates with one cable to each rear wheel. I can get cables made for you at $45 bucks each, also can have cables made for the MKV11 rear disc setups.
vic

We got the two e-brake cables functioning again but are still waiting to see what NAPA to deliver what they say are replacements. New issue, we have the new master cylinder and looking at the old one, we have to transfer the distribution block but there's no way it's coming off the old one. Do they still make one? I'll throw a brake light switch on as well.

The 67 M/C "distribution block" is simply a mounting point for a pressure imbalance switch. Both circuit pressures at the block, one circuit on each side of the switch. If pressure is lost on one side it trips the switch to turn on the idiot light.
The fittings are standard brake fittings, and you need to use a "Line Wrench" on them, the same as any other brake fitting. If they are rounded because some one used the wrong wrench, last resort is vice grips and then replace them correctly.
Brake line fittings using a 45 degree seat, use a double rolled flare and are easy to replace using a flaring tool kit. You should be able to remove the toasted ones, buy some brake line (comes in different lengths with two fittings on it already) cut, bend and flare it to replace your bad ones.
I make a conversion remote reservoir for the 67 M/C's, as well as sell re sleeved masters, with the outlet ports machined to be able to use Bendix adapters if you want to use them. It allows you to use external residual valves and no longer needing the internal ones as well as the seats. The machining still allows you to use the OEM valves and seats if you like.
vic

Forgot to say,, if the fittings are toast,,, use a pair of vice grips, then replace them,,,, sorry,,
vic

We are using a flare wrench but these fittings will be toast if we push it so we'll go the vise grip and replace the lines method. We bought a '64 master cylinder as a direct replacement and it does not come with the threaded on block that the lines go into (and the light switch piggy backs onto). Should we return the M/C and get your upgrade package?

OOPS!!! There is the problem,, the 64 master is a SINGLE circuit master cylinder and does not use the idiot light. When I say idiot light, its kinda of a lame thing from the Feds,, it is supposed to tell a person that one side of the trucks brakes are not working... like duh,, a person could not tell,, LOL.. but they had to do it for legal krap.
Anyways,, the light switch is only for a dual master like the 67, and it was one year only as the 67 being the last 1st Gen..
Its not a bad idea to update yours to a dual master cylinder, as you would now have a back up brake circuit, the reason it became a Federal law in 67. It seperates the front and the rear circuits into two circuits. If you loose any one part of your single circuit (61 to 66), you loose ALL BRAKING, not just one side. Your single circuit brake system does not need the light, as you only have one circuit, and if it fails, you wont need a light to let you know it,,, OUCH!!
Unfortunately, the dual circuit 67 M/C is perfect for a disc brake upgrade (I will not drive any of mine without discs),, but it is one year only, one vehicle only.
Everyone used to think they were hard to get a hold of but that isn't really true, I have 8 of them in for re sleeving right now, for sale. Especially as I sell a disc brake conversion kit also.
Did you already have the "distribution block" on your truck?? if so, it didnt come stock. Did someone already put in a dual master and now you have a single. Does your master look like the dual one that I posted a picture of, if so, then you indeed have the dual setup.
Personally, I don't use the distribution block and the light unless a customer insists on it (see picture posted) as I don't need a light to tell me one side is not working. So,, I have at least a half a dozen of them here, also, the switch does seem to be problematic after so many years of krud in them,,,
Post a picture or send it to me PM and I will help you through it..
vic