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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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sasktrini
elmonto
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    alternator swap help?????

    elmonto
    elmonto


    Number of posts : 56
    Location : san diego
    Registration date : 2010-07-09

    alternator - alternator swap help????? Empty alternator swap help?????

    Post by elmonto Tue May 03, 2011 10:13 pm

    My og generator took a dump today and i want to buy an alternator. Anyone got any tips on which one to get and what kinda brackets i need. I havent looked inside to see yet.
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    Post by Guest Wed May 04, 2011 3:39 am

    The previous owner of mine ditched the generator for an alternator but it looks like the stock brackets were adjustable enough to fit what he put in it, as the brackets look stock. The one in mine is from a 67 GTO. I had to get a 67GTO voltage regulator as I couldn't get it to charge using the Econoline one because it didn't have enough tabs sticking out of it. But to replace both alt and voltage regulator cost me about $75. I wired it myself and it charges great and the dash light even turns on and off as it should. I say this because when it comes to eleteical I am just aweful. If I can do it you can do it. Goodluck!
    sasktrini
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    alternator - alternator swap help????? Empty Re: alternator swap help?????

    Post by sasktrini Wed May 04, 2011 12:09 pm

    I have seen that you can upgrade to a Chevy Internally regulated alt from a pickup, mount it with a spacer for the lower bolt, eliminate some wires... just off the top of my head, tossing the suggestion out there if you are curious. I was able to buy an alternator and voltage regulator in our Canadian Tire stores, so I'm sure Autozone or whatever would stock direct replacements.
    elmonto
    elmonto


    Number of posts : 56
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    Post by elmonto Fri May 06, 2011 3:53 pm

    Cool i think im gonna go for the gm one wire alt.
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    Old Skool
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    Post by Old Skool Fri May 06, 2011 8:35 pm

    Respectfully speaking but the Chevy single wire has been the hot one that a lot of people have been using for quite a long time,, HOWEVER the new rage is the Ford 3G alternator. Its smaller than the Chevy 100 amp, and puts out 90 amps at 600 RPM,, from 130 full out to as much as 150 when worked. I have bought four of them, one chromed, one plain Jane (new),, and the two at the bone yrd for $15 bucks each. Its a single wire, so you can dump all the wiring back and forth to our regulator.
    vic

    alternator - alternator swap help????? 100_1116

    alternator - alternator swap help????? 100_1118

    alternator - alternator swap help????? 0041310

    alternator - alternator swap help????? 0031610
    elmonto
    elmonto


    Number of posts : 56
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    alternator - alternator swap help????? Empty Re: alternator swap help?????

    Post by elmonto Fri May 06, 2011 9:32 pm

    Hey vic, what cars have you pulled those off of? Id like to keep it all ford just on principalities.
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    Old Skool
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    Post by Old Skool Fri May 06, 2011 9:34 pm

    95 Mustang,, as I recall, one was on the ground so that doesn't count,, LOL....
    vic
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    Post by Old Skool Fri May 06, 2011 9:36 pm

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    Post by Old Skool Fri May 06, 2011 9:38 pm

    One more, SUPER info and I like this guys discussions and thinking...
    vic

    http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=33
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    Old Skool
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    Post by Old Skool Fri May 06, 2011 9:41 pm

    Last one was bad,, it was supposed to be his discussion of belts and what AMP loads a single or double or serp can handle,, I cant locate it on his site anymore,, and the last post was not it,,, here is on specifically about his alternators though
    vic

    http://rjminjectiontech.com/collections/alternators
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    Post by Guest Sat May 07, 2011 8:54 am

    elmonto wrote:Hey vic, what cars have you pulled those off of? Id like to keep it all ford just on principalities.

    Lol I know what you mean, I was kind of bummed when I found out that my replacement alternator was from GM, but it already fit so nice with the brackets it had already I wasn't going to go through the hassle. The previous owner put a mopar electric fuel pump on the van and after a week of having it on the road it crapped out. That junkyard alternator seems like a great idea.
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    Post by Old Skool Sat May 07, 2011 9:37 am

    Forgot to mention, the most important part of using this alternator, in case someone hasn't noticed??????? its cranking out 90 amps at idle!!!! how many times in stop and go traffic have you had to put it in idle and or slip the clutch and sit on the gas to keep the r's up???? this one puts out just about as much as the GM at idle!!!! the GM will only crank the amps at full speed..... important for headlights, heaters, fans and stereos when your stuck in traffic watching the temp gauge hit self destruct,,,, LOL..
    vic
    score602
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    Post by score602 Tue May 10, 2011 7:30 pm

    so how do u eliminate the voltage reg when using a 3g? what wires go where from the back of the new alt
    elmonto
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    Post by elmonto Thu May 12, 2011 9:59 am

    So im going to use a 1g alt (regular style) i had laying around from a previous 302 build. Im not sure about the new volt reg wiring though. The old volt reg has a tab that says ARM? Theres a small box under the old reg that wires up to it what is this? BTW wiring is not my forte haha.
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    Post by Guest Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:27 pm

    score602 wrote:so how do u eliminate the voltage reg when using a 3g? what wires go where from the back of the new alt

    I second this question. The previous (hack) owner of my van "converted" to a one wire alternator, now my battery keeps dying. Also, where in the world is the fusible link coming off of the alternator located, or supposed to be located. I'm about ready to burn my van to the ground if I can't get my battery to charge Evil or Very Mad
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Nov 21, 2011 8:52 pm

    Fusible links are put where the Positive battery cable ends,,,,usually at a starter relay,,,where the smaller wires connect to the cable,,,,,they are put on the end of the feed wires, that go to like the alternator output,fusebox, and ignition switch,,,,,


    alternator - alternator swap help????? Fisibl13


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    Post by donivan65 Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:01 pm

    As for that drain on your battery,,,,disconnect the output wire from the alternator and put a 12 volt test light between the wire and the terminal that it came off of,,,if that test light glows,,,that is a drain,,,means juice is flowing out of the battery,,,do that to a battery cable at the battery,,,the 12 volt test light goes in series with a wire,,,,if that test light glows when everything is supposed to be off,,,,you have a drain,,,the battery WILL go dead,,,,,
    elmonto
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    Post by elmonto Wed Dec 14, 2011 10:38 am

    I still haven't resolved my charging issue, i was just gonna replace the whole damn wiring harness when i get a chance.
    Rayallen
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    Post by Rayallen Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:21 am

    I am having the same problem. My battery charged over night and is almost full. My neighbor and I are going to try and tackle this issue tonight. I think adding the new alternator is causing my regulator to drain the battery. These old vehicle and their electrical problems are a nightmare.

    good Luck on your new wire harness. Im going to give this ago on my own and if I cant fix it I will take it to a mechanic and unwillingly willingly fork out the cash.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:44 am

    Don't be scared of a little electricity,,,,these old van charging systems are simple, ONCE you understand what you are looking at,,,,and thats where the people on this website come in,,,,,we can tell you what you are looking at, explain what it does and how to check it and fix it if you find a problem,,,,,,


    alternator - alternator swap help????? Ford_c10
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    Post by Old Skool Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:17 pm

    THE FUSE-BALE IN ours is the pink wire from the switch up front and not at the solenoid,,
    vic
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Dec 14, 2011 10:32 pm

    If that is so, it is in a dumb place,,,,,does that mean the the only protection is when the key is on? Most fires start in the Doghouse. You surely need to protect the wiring in the doghouse ,,,,,,you don't want the alternator and regulator unprotected,,,,,,that is why the Ford fusible links were put at the relay at the source where the positive battery cable comes into the van,,,,something goes wrong and it cuts off ALL power to the van. So its a good idea to upgrade your van to make it safer,,,,,,
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    Post by Old Skool Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:40 pm

    Actually,, I believe I am wrong, it is a resistor wire to the coil, and no fuse able link at all,, sorry.
    vic
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:45 am

    But the bottom line is you NEED a fusible link in your van,,,,,,,and its easy to add one,,,,,they started putting them on Chevys in 1967,,,,so we put them on the 64-66 ones to protect them,,,,50 year old wiring is in pretty sorry shape, and if it touches metal its going to burn....
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    Post by Old Skool Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:10 pm

    Curious, as the AMP load on the link you used. If its a main line, I would suspect it be pretty high amps. Is there a reason why you simply wouldn't just use a breaker, so at least to not be stranded on the road if it tripped?? I had a Dodge years ago that left me out in the sticks one time,,,
    vic

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