New can of worms...headers...no headers?

As I suspected...I have an exhaust manifold gasket leak.

So I got a case of the "might as well's"

If I am going to start pulling off manifolds...does anyone make headers (that actually fit without modifying anything) for a 1966 A100 with a 318/727?

Or am I just asking for a new set of hoops to jump through?

I would luv to hear from anyone who has already done this...to hear the pros and cons of course

Got a set of Hookers that were for a 70s pickup used.
Tried them on the old engine before I pulled the van apart.
Seem to fit well, but would not work with the 3-on-the-tree shift rods.
Should be fine with a 727.
My concern is the heat, headers put out a LOT more than manifolds.

I got this out of the "betwwen the seats" section.... jkr came up with these numbers earlier..
d-series half ton should be very close to the same both 2wd and 4wd.
jegs part # 30082
dynomax part # 2285032
either one "should" have little to no clearance issues.

I don't know if they ever put them on, but I know we were talking about this before and there are guys running headers with heat wrap on them. I am planning on a set for the '67 when I get that far.

The previous owner heat wrapped the headers on my race car.
It does make a difference, but the headers do not last. They were full of rust (no knowledge of age) and this has been reported on other forums too.
So buy new headers and wrap every few years and have reasonable doghouse temps or have very high temps cook the insulation, wiring, valve cover gaskets, etc.

What about alluma coated headers? Bill

Had coated headers on another car. Got REAL hot, just like painted headers.

Another thing; if the OP hates exhaust leaks, headers are not the way to go. They tend to leak a lot more than cast manifolds.

you actually wrap headers to keep the heat in and to keep pieces close to them from overheating. and i would only wrap the top 6 or 8 inches if i did do them. they will cool down faster than exhaust manifolds but won't "soak" as much heat from the engine when it's not running. at cruising speeds the engine bay should be cooler than with manifolds. and yes the d-series truck part #'s should work well with a-series vans and pickups.

my 2 cents worth.

One thing that can help with header leaks are the best gaskets you can buy and those header lock nuts help also.

I also forgot to mention that I found a set of "hi-flow 340 manifolds". Any thought on those?

And thanks for all the replies guys

Summit Racing has LA V8 Engine "block hugger" headers for $143.00, here. Comes with gaskets, collectors etc.

I would paint them with black header paint and definitely wrap them with header wrap as well to get the heat out of the doghouse. Don't be surprised if the header paint/wrap smoke a little after painting, just drive it off, it's the chemicals in the paint/wrap getting burned off.

It's on my list of things to do myself to help control the heat, wrapped headers are nowhere near as hot as iron manifolds in the bay.

RodStRace wrote:Had coated headers on another car. Got REAL hot, just like painted headers.

Another thing; if the OP hates exhaust leaks, headers are not the way to go. They tend to leak a lot more than cast manifolds.

They tend to leak at the head more often but the trick is to use high quality "metal mesh" or copper gaskets (instead of paper/fiber) and locking bolts.

jkr wrote:you actually wrap headers to keep the heat in and to keep pieces close to them from overheating. and i would only wrap the top 6 or 8 inches if i did do them. they will cool down faster than exhaust manifolds but won't "soak" as much heat from the engine when it's not running. at cruising speeds the engine bay should be cooler than with manifolds. and yes the d-series truck part #'s should work well with a-series vans and pickups.

my 2 cents worth.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing about the heat soak.

I ran the van for a while yesterday and the doghouse was hot FOREVER after. From what I remember, the headers on my 69 Charger cooled down real quick compared to the stock manifolds.

I am also looking into and electric fan now. The temp goes up 40 degrees when at idle for a bit

Thanks for all the info guys

my 69 has some Hookers on it and they fit pretty good except they touch the e-brake cable. But it alll works..

SIN BIN wrote:I also forgot to mention that I found a set of "hi-flow 340 manifolds". Any thought on those?

And thanks for all the replies guys

The hi-flow manifolds will flow well on your 318. Also the newer magnim engine exhaust manifolds 91-2? and up will work just as well as the older hi-flows. You will have to hone the rear hole in the magnum exhaust manifold for the bolt to go in the l.a. head. Those 340 manifolds must go for bigger coin then the newer ones id imagine.

SIN BIN wrote:

jkr wrote:you actually wrap headers to keep the heat in and to keep pieces close to them from overheating. and i would only wrap the top 6 or 8 inches if i did do them. they will cool down faster than exhaust manifolds but won't "soak" as much heat from the engine when it's not running. at cruising speeds the engine bay should be cooler than with manifolds. and yes the d-series truck part #'s should work well with a-series vans and pickups.

my 2 cents worth.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing about the heat soak.

I ran the van for a while yesterday and the doghouse was hot FOREVER after. From what I remember, the headers on my 69 Charger cooled down real quick compared to the stock manifolds.

I am also looking into and electric fan now. The temp goes up 40 degrees when at idle for a bit

Thanks for all the info guys

Mine does that as well, unfortunately my carb will start boiling when engine temp hits about 195 (ambient temp in the doghouse is probably much higher) and flood the engine. I've been fighting a heat battle myself and am probably going to make a separate post on it soon. In the meantime you might find this useful, I used a "Hayden 3710" 16" electric fan on the front of my radiator and it fits perfectly, moves 1500cfm and the blade is reversible. They have it at Summit but price check local stores first.

It draws some power so I put an 18 amp inline fuse and used a 30amp rated lighted toggle switch for on/off, feed it right off the battery if you can. The switch is a Dorman 30amp LED Toggle, PN 84894, available at most parts stores. It's worth mentioning that I use the electric fan and the mechanical fan, I only use the electric if I'm in stop/go traffic or hitting a lot of lights, no need for it running down the road.

Here's a pic of the install:

slowflapper wrote:

SIN BIN wrote:

jkr wrote:you actually wrap headers to keep the heat in and to keep pieces close to them from overheating. and i would only wrap the top 6 or 8 inches if i did do them. they will cool down faster than exhaust manifolds but won't "soak" as much heat from the engine when it's not running. at cruising speeds the engine bay should be cooler than with manifolds. and yes the d-series truck part #'s should work well with a-series vans and pickups.

my 2 cents worth.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing about the heat soak.

I ran the van for a while yesterday and the doghouse was hot FOREVER after. From what I remember, the headers on my 69 Charger cooled down real quick compared to the stock manifolds.

I am also looking into and electric fan now. The temp goes up 40 degrees when at idle for a bit

Thanks for all the info guys

Mine does that as well, unfortunately my carb will start boiling when engine temp hits about 195 (ambient temp in the doghouse is probably much higher) and flood the engine. I've been fighting a heat battle myself and am probably going to make a separate post on it soon. In the meantime you might find this useful, I used a "Hayden 3710" 16" electric fan on the front of my radiator and it fits perfectly, moves 1500cfm and the blade is reversible. They have it at Summit but price check local stores first.

It draws some power so I put an 18 amp inline fuse and used a 30amp rated lighted toggle switch for on/off, feed it right off the battery if you can. The switch is a Dorman 30amp LED Toggle, PN 84894, available at most parts stores. It's worth mentioning that I use the electric fan and the mechanical fan, I only use the electric if I'm in stop/go traffic or hitting a lot of lights, no need for it running down the road.

Here's a pic of the install:

Sweet!

Thanks for the tip!