Pig removal from 8-3/4 rear end

I wanted to remove the differential pig from the rear end due to an oil leak from the case. However, after removing the 10 bolts and the drive shaft, I could not remove the pig. It occurred to me then I should probably remove the axle shafts as described in my repair manual.

The pulling I did on the differential seemed to disengage the axles somewhat since I can spin the wheels (off the ground) somewhat freely with out the end of the pig turning. I got the wheels off but my problem now is I cannot remove the plate with the wheel studs on top of the drum because there is no leverage. The axle just spins so I cannot get any torque on the bolts.

I tried reinstalling the drive shaft and pig but I can tell the axles are not seated right.

Any ideas?

are you using a air gun ??
the axles should be into the center section by at least 2 inches a side,
here is something you can try , cut a wood say 2 x 4 to fit between the wheel studs
tight , and long enough to reach the ground, vice grip or c-clamp it to the back plate
and then remove the nuts, read up in your manual when reinstalling how to adjust the slack adjusters

No air gun.
To be more specific I cannot remove the adapter plate that has the different bolt spacing. I tried using a 2x4 and a piece of pipe between studs but to no avail, bolts are just too tight.

jseiff wrote:No air gun.
To be more specific I cannot remove the adapter plate that has the different bolt spacing. I tried using a 2x4 and a piece of pipe between studs but to no avail, bolts are just too tight.

Are you talking about the 5 bolts (per side) that mount the axle flange to the axle housing ? Also once you get the axles removed & the bolts that hold the center section in. You can take your floor jack and lift up on the nose of the center section (a bit) to crack the center section away from the axle housing. But just lift a little bit, should not take much to split the gasket /seal. Have a drain pan ready. Then remove the center section

i think he tried removing the center section with out pulling the axles

rustytoolss wrote:
Are you talking about the 5 bolts (per side) that mount the axle flange to the axle housing ? Also once you get the axles removed & the bolts that hold the center section in. You can take your floor jack and lift up on the nose of the center section (a bit) to crack the center section away from the axle housing. But just lift a little bit, should not take much to split the gasket /seal. Have a drain pan ready. Then remove the center section

I did loosen the center section and drained the oil. However I couldnt remove it all the way out to replace the gasket since the differential is still locked in with the axles.

What I'm hearing is fighting a wheel adapter keeping him from getting to the bearing housing bolts?

try to retighten the center section to put it back in the axle housing. Be careful doing this. Tighten the bolts around the center section evenly, by doing a 12 oclock-6 oclock/ then 3 ocloclk-9oclock etc. tighten each nut slowly so that you don't bind anything up.
Once the center section is back in the housing. Then remove the 5 nuts that hold each axle retainer. Using a pry bar '2x4 . Pry between the axle flange and the brake shoe radius, to pop out the axle.
Then do the other axle the same way.
Once both axles are out. Loosen the nuts around the center section. Place a floor jack under the center section to remove the center section.
One question .. does the van have a posi rear end ?

I replaced the center section and the drive shaft, tightening the ten bolts in a 'star' pattern. I cannot remove the 5 nuts on the adapter plate (in front of the drum) because the axle does not have enough resistance from the drive. In other words the axle spins when I put pressure on the bolts with a ratchet.

Not a posi rear end.

I would say..get an air impact gun. sounds like the bolts are to stubborn for ratchet power. Need a strong snap to break them loose. Could you post up a pic so we can see what you're up against.

jseiff wrote:I replaced the center section and the drive shaft, tightening the ten bolts in a 'star' pattern. I cannot remove the 5 nuts on the adapter plate (in front of the drum) because the axle does not have enough resistance from the drive. In other words the axle spins when I put pressure on the bolts with a ratchet.

Not a posi rear end.

Are you saying that you van has wheel adapters/ and you can not get those off, and have not even gotten off the brake drums yet ? If so you can not remove the center section until thewheel&tires are off/ drums  are off/ axles out/ then center section.
If you do have wheel adapter, and the axle is turning while trying to remove them. Have someone push on the brake pedal, to stop the axle from turning.
P/S incase you do not know this early Chrysler vehicles had (LEFT HANDED THREADS on the WHEEL "STUDS"on the drives side of the vehicle) (Front and rear axles), Also there is the possibility that at some point in the vehicles life, that someone install a lefthand axle into the right side of the vehicle/ meaning you "could have 2 lefthand threaded rear axles, just athought.
You may be able to use a small hand help propane torch to heat up the nuts, to help loosen things up. Just be careful . Keep us posted.

rustytoolss wrote:Are you saying that you van has wheel adapters/ and you can not get those off, and have not even gotten off the brake drums yet ? If so you can not remove the center section until thewheel&tires are off/ drums  are off/ axles out/ then center section.
If you do have wheel adapter, and the axle is turning while trying to remove them. Have someone push on the brake pedal, to stop the axle from turning.
P/S incase you do not know this early Chrysler vehicles had (LEFT HANDED THREADS on the WHEEL "STUDS"on the drives side of the vehicle) (Front and rear axles)

yes, there are wheel adapters and that is what I cannot remove to even access the brake drum. I will try to get someone on the brakes.
So only on the drivers side the studs have left handed threads?? Did not know that! Thanks!

Yes all early mopars up to about 1971 (unsure of break off date) or so had "lefthand thread" on the lefthand side of the vehicle.

Thanks to everyone's advice, I got the adapters off!. Now I'm having a bit of trouble deciphering my manual. What's the next step to remove the axle?
I removed the 5 axle flange nuts already. Now what?

Place a prybar or a 2x4 between the axle flange , and the outer radius of the brake shoe. And pry the axle out. Sometimes you have to give them a healthy quick pop. You'll be pushing the prybar toward the vehicle/ away from you. ( Sometimes) the axle retainer flange may get a bit hung up on the flat bar that goes between the brakes shoes . That flat bar operates your Ebrake, and is just above the top 2 axle retainer nuts. Just be aware that the retainer may get caught a bit at that point. Not a big deal. Glad to have helped out.

keep us posted

I just replaced my bearings and seals today.. if you want to save some cash grease those bearings.I might replace atleast the inner seal while you in there. This will insure oil not leaking into bearings.Just a thought.

Van crazy wrote:I just replaced my bearings and seals today.. if you want to save some cash grease those bearings.I might replace atleast the inner seal while you in there. This will insure oil not leaking into bearings.Just a thought.

I agree pack the wheel bearing while the axles are out. On the 8 3/4 reaend the wheel bearings DO NOT get lubed from the differential/ gear grease/lube.

Got the axles out with your 2x4 trick, rusty. Thanks!
And got the center section removed finally!

Now maybe this is a dumb question, but how do I remove the bearings from the axles if I want to replace them?

The bearings are pressed on (usually at machine shop) . And there is a retainer behind the bearing(thick donut type thing) (also pressed on).
Also when you put everything back together. There is an axle bearing preload adjustment. Look at your factory servise book.
Don't forget to grease those wheel bearings.

Get green bearings they replace the style you got on now. no adjustment nessesary if you go that route. But you need a press and bearing spreader. do you have one? You have to cut the colar first and then press off bearing.

No I do not have a press. I've never used the green bearings yet. Glad you got everything under control.

I am using the green bearing. i will need them in place if i move forward with the rear dics. i was careful and just used a grinder to remove the old ones and had the new ones pressed on

I went with the green bearings from Dr Diff ($75). Had a local shop remove the old bearings and press on the new ones since I don't have a press. Cost me half an hour labor ($43).