Still having shift problems Help!!!

Hi
My 63 E van would only shift to into 2cd and 3 rd now only 1st and reverse?
Had the linkage, clutch, and trans. checked ok.
It's the bushings in the column? Are there parts still available?
I have taken it to three people one would not touch it, 2nd wanted $1000.00 to replace the bushings in the column(Leon's Transmission Costa Mesa,CA what a joke!) Third was not sure about the parts? Old skool emailed me but no price or where to contact him. So if anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Rally72

Yes

Wow, glad to see this post. I am having similar but not the exact same difficulty. The trany and long linkage arms are fine, I can shift into all the gears with concentration and "finesse" but the up and down motion has severely been compromised because the cross over pin bushing is shot, probably about 1/8th of an inch shorter than it should be. I am also a little concerned about the sloppiness in the slots in the linkage arms @ the bottom of the shifter tube because they have enlarged. I have not been able to find the parts. I am going to take the Truck off the road to pull the carb, head and manifold, resurface the steering wheel, etc. so I'm planning to disassemble the shifter tube to rebuild it at that time. I saw a suggestion of building up some weld on the "key" @ the bottom of the tube and machine them back to matching sizes in the slots. I think I can "fabricate" a cross over pin bushing from some kind of pipe, sleeve or other suitable material I can find. Any suggestions to help would be appreciated, should I email Vic as well?

Here is an old Vic post,,,,,,,

There is no factory bushing at the bottom of the column, the SUPPORT bracket that bolt up on the bottom is only for vertical support, the only bushing that is in the column from the factory is a plastic one in the aluminum mounting bracket.
The only greasable zirc fitting there is,, is on the upper shift arm itself.
I turn the end of the shift tube down, re-weld in brass, and then re-cut it to .750. Then I bore out the aluminum mounting bracket for more clearance, and install a bronze bushing cut down in the lower support bracket. Also, a MAJOR problem with the column is the shift pin, it is hardened and the shaft is not. You should be able to put in a 1/4" Phillips head screwdriver into the alignment hole and in both of the two matching alignment holes in the shifters. If you can then move the shifter back and forward more than a 1/2",, that indicates the hole in the shift tube is worn out. To fix that, get a 17/64th cobalt drill bit and carefully drill out the worn out 1/4" hole. Then make a new shift pin out of the shank of the drill bit to match the original length. That usually helps the slop situation there.
Here are some pics showing a rebuilt 4spd, 3spd,and the alignment points so you can properly adjust your transmission shifters in neutral.
vic

Wow, best picture so far thanks. So if my only problem is that cross over pin, the 17/64ths drill bit remedy will solve that. I still need to get the crossover pin bushing back to shape which I now think is my biggest problem. I emailed "Vic" and hope to get the words of wisdom that will put this all in perspective and get me passed this issue (& on to the next one).

I hate doing many small repairs to the same components.
It increases the possibility that something will get lost, broken or damaged. I prefer to get all the info and take it all apart once, fix it all to as new or better and reassemble/adjust.
If you are going to pull all this apart, figure on fixing the crossover pin, the shift arm holes, the bushings, the ends of the rods and cleaning all of it and lubricating properly. Get any new parts (bushings, washers, zerk fitting, clips) needed before taking it all apart.
Then you can concentrate on the other end by the trans. Once all of that is done, you should have a good tight, smooth linkage.

I completely disassembled the column assy to clean and re-lube it. The biggest problem was dried grease which created too much friction to allow the lever pivot to move up and down smoothly. A little time, a lot of patience (and carb clean) and it works better than new with no hard part replacement required. Clean (or replace) the zirk fittings as long as you have it apart to ensure easy greasing later.

OK, all sounds logical. I have free unrestricted movement, so I do not see it being a dried grease condition. I like the idea of ".....no new parts needed" and allot of Carb Cleaner will do the trick. I want to ask, if you look at the swagged edge of the cross-over pin sleeve (opposite the cut out for the zirk fitting) in the picture in the previous post, mine is completely gone, the sleeve has lost about 3/16" of length and the edge is wragged and uneven. I cant believe this does not need replacement, and that a cylindical shaped metal tube with the close I.D. and a O.D. wouldnt be an adequate replacement. I think I am hearing no one has ever had to replace this part? I think the tube, linkage arms and bracket are fine. I believe I will have to replace the cross-over pin itself and the sleeve.

Yup, in email communication with Vic now, thank you..........

The shift tube is mild steel, the pin and the shift arms are hardened, so,, the shift tube hole wears out.
This allows the pin to end up in different positions, no matter how many times you adjust the shifters. It needs to go up and down into each of the two column shifters without hitting the other one, the slop in the shift tube does not allow it to repeat itself and shift correctly without locking up.... SO, that is the FIRST thing to be addressed.
On top of that, the lower z bracket (support bracket) IS NOT INTENDED TO CONTROL ANY SIDE movement, its ONLY FOR VERTICAL SUPPORT,,,,and the upper plastic bushing always gets worn out or stuck!!!! SO,, I make a replacement lower support in my rebuilt columns that uses a bronze bushing that I adapt to ours. Also, I cut the end down, braze it up, and then re cut it to fit the bushing with no slop. Ending up with brass against bronze,,, lasts for ever..
Also, the NEXT spot is the upper support/fulcrum, ours are weak and I replace them with a GENII unit as it is much stronger. The came in the GENII's,, HOWEVER, 99% of them are automatics,,, sorry....
Get all that slop out, and you will be able to adjust it and get a consistent up and down for neutral and not lock it up,,,
vic

BTW,,, THANK YOU GUYS FOR KEEPING MY POSTS AND THE PICTURES,,,,,

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO EVERYONE....

BETWEEN THE SHIFT TUBE AND SHIFT TUBE BRACKET THERE IS A NYLON/PLASTIC SLEEVE. IS THIS PART AVAILABLE ANYWHERE?

Rally72 wrote:Hi
My 63 E van would only shift to into 2cd and 3 rd now only 1st and reverse?
Had the linkage, clutch, and trans. checked ok.
It's the bushings in the column? Are there parts still available?
I have taken it to three people one would not touch it, 2nd wanted $1000.00 to replace the bushings in the column(Leon's Transmission Costa Mesa,CA what a joke!) Third was not sure about the parts? Old skool emailed me but no price or where to contact him. So if anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Rally72

Did You try adding bushings to the shift rods where they pass thru a crossmember/bulkhead under the driver's seat area ? The weight of the long rods will cause then to drag and bind.

Hey guys!!!!!!! I am back kinda sorta,, still busted up pretty badly from the crash and work is very hard for me to do very fast,, but,,,, IT SURE IS NICE TO SEE MY PICS,, LOL...
anyways,,, I would offer to fix his right now, but still catching up,,, feel free to call if you must, but please early am or late as it is really aggravating to get in and out of trucks all day to answer it,, sorry,,,
Old Skool,,, aka,,,,vic

Call me,,,,,, I will go through it with you,,,,, the shift arm slots are hardened, but I have BOXES of them and I understand these shifters from top to bottom. Just please dont make me crawl out from under a truck,,it hurts
Old Skool,,,,818-335-3033

good information . did not know about putting screw driver in from the top to adjust rods. been doing it from the bottom not much room to work with.

i found a used column on craigslist that must of had 10,000 miles on it at the most. i cleaned it up put new rubber gromets with brass sleeves on the arms and it works like butter, couldn't be more pleased. thanx for all of your suggestions, also put a new rubber on the shifter itself.i'm no expert but my repairs make me feel like one lol!

Got the 63 started to get the cobwebs off but now I have this exact issue, stuck in Reverse and 1st. Tried the wd40 and carb clean etc but still will not budge. Looks like I may have to take apart, but thinking I should replace the parts while I'm at it...

Vic you still selling rebuild shift assemblies?

Don, you holding any Ford parts?