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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    Voltage Regulator, Oil Leak, Cracked Solenoid, Wire Fire, & Poor

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    Post by Guest Sat Sep 03, 2011 4:22 pm

    Ok, I have a few more issues again.
    I'm wondering if it would be easier to by pass the voltage regulator and go one wire alternator.
    Also, How do I do this the right way??

    I got the valve seals replaced and resealed the valve cover, but now more oil is blowing out the back (bottom see picture below).
    and I'm still getting some white smoke after shifting gears.

    I got a little wire fire the other day from having oil getting in between one of the wires that was connected to the voltage regulator. It's burnt all the way back to my new wire harness I installed. ( no new engine wire harness YET)

    I'm loosing faith. I've spent so much money on this van. I'm almost about to give up and sell it. I'm almost there though. It's a solid van. I just think it might need to have the engine rebuilt, and I can't afford that. It's just been so frustrating. Well, enjoy my little document of the issues that are at hand and any help will be greatly appreciated


    Note: Click on the pictures to get the full view of what I made in photoshop. It gives more details about what is taking place. Thanks!

    Voltage Regulator, Oil Leak, Cracked Solenoid, Wire Fire, & Poor  Wirefi12
    Twinpilot001
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    Number of posts : 6186
    Location : spokane ,Wa.
    Registration date : 2009-09-28

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    Post by Twinpilot001 Sat Sep 03, 2011 5:45 pm

    So Sorry to hear the bad news!! White smoke =usually rings & rebuild time - Sad yet - dont be too discouraged. If too much for ya =pm me sometime -ur not too far away- still -Hope you keep it and get her done right-happy vannini]
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Location : San Diego, California
    Registration date : 2008-05-12

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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 03, 2011 10:01 pm

    If your alternator has the field wire connector in back, it needs a regulator,,,both those wires go to the regulator, the 3rd wire on the regulator is hooked to the output of the alternator and the 4th wire on the regulator goes to the idiot light,,,,you need to put a fusible link on that van so WHEN,,,not IF,,,,the old wires short out and burn the van to the ground,,,,,and here is a 3rd Gen alternator with the regulator already built in,,,,I would probably say you could get one at Autozone for maybe $25,,,,,


    Voltage Regulator, Oil Leak, Cracked Solenoid, Wire Fire, & Poor  Repair94


    Voltage Regulator, Oil Leak, Cracked Solenoid, Wire Fire, & Poor  3rd_ge10
    donivan65
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    Number of posts : 12220
    Location : San Diego, California
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 03, 2011 10:10 pm

    That blue wire bolted to the base of the regulator will cause a fire if you connect it to one of the 4 terminals coming out of the regulator,,,,its a ground wire someone added,,,,,that connector by the dipstick goes to the oil sender,,,,,you can put a female spade terminal on the end of the wire and it will do the job,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:43 pm

    Thanks Guys for the help!

    I think I would like to keep things simple and get a single wire alternator. Now I could be wrong, maybe get a 3 wire alt instead???
    I have replaced most of the old wiring inside the engine.
    I'm going to get a new solenoid too. Also going to get a female spade terminal and give that some new wiring too.

    Any ideas on what type of alternator to use & How to install it the right way?
    Thanks for all the support with the voltage regulator hook up but wouldn't be easier and less risky with getting a newer alternator? and doing away with the voltage regulator? I'm just worried that thing might light up again.

    my engine is a straight 6 250 GMC 1982. I got under the van a little more and it looks like the oil pan could be resealed. A rebuild would be better though. Anyone live near me that rebuilds engines?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:01 pm

    A 3 wire and a 1 wire are the same,,,,,and a 3 wire is better, you can control the output,,,,and hook up?,,,,put the Alternator on,,,hook up the output wire and run a wire from the output post to #2......you are done,,,,in some cases, you might have to hook the Brown wire that goes to the #4 spot on the regulator to the #1 on the Alternator, but its the middle one in that connector by the carburetor,,,,Ask for an Alternator for a 1978 Chevy Van, G-30, 350 engine and trans if you are buying a rebuilt,,,,or get one from Pick a Part,,,,,


    Last edited by donivan65 on Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:18 pm

    Voltage Regulator, Oil Leak, Cracked Solenoid, Wire Fire, & Poor  3rd_ge11
    Twinpilot001
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    Number of posts : 6186
    Location : spokane ,Wa.
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    Post by Twinpilot001 Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:14 am

    Hey donnivan- what web site did u get that alt - pic from? the one priced?[i]
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Sep 05, 2011 9:46 am

    That is Autozone,,,,probably all GM vehicles use that same Alternator from 1976 to 86,,,,,,the last 3 Alternators I put on worked without hooking up the #1 wire from the idiot light, so basically you put a jumper from #2 to the output terminal and then hook up the output wire that goes to the battery. 1st Gens don't have a Fusible link installed in the feed line at the terminal where the battery cable goes on the starter solenoid, now that is a MANDATORY fix to keep the van from burning up......
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Sep 05, 2011 9:49 am

    Voltage Regulator, Oil Leak, Cracked Solenoid, Wire Fire, & Poor  Fisibl11
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    Post by Guest Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:39 pm

    Thanks Don,
    I got that Alternator and I got a new Starter too. Hopefully I can get to it tomorrow and I'll post up pictures of the install for people.

    Looks like I'll have to have the Engine rebuilt Sad the rings might be bad... it's still smoking after the valve seal replacement. I'll up date on that when I can get to it. Hopefully it will be soon.

    Thanks again for everyone's help.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:26 am

    If you take off the oil filler cap when the engine is running, it should suck air down into it,,,,,,HOWEVER,,,,if you feel pressure, fumes and smoke coming out of it, your rings are worn out and that engine is done.
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    Post by Guest Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:11 pm

    Done? as in time for a new engine? or I can rebuild this one? Smile

    I know the answer but done just sounds like the hope is getting sucked out of me hahaha
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:36 pm

    ,,,,,,it's done being good,,,,,you got to make it good again,,,,,,

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