king pins of the under carriage world...

now that the wheel bearings are all done another wobble is disturbing the force. can someone relate their experiences with changing
out king pins thanks. and also thank you all for the help since last summer, its made keeping the van running a breeze.

I have never replaced any but I just bought new ones for my 65 Econo. I was told they have to be pressed in.

It depends on what you mean by "tap", I suspect... I haven't tried this, but most other assemblies are requiring brute force for disassembly! However, my "brute force" is probably your "tap"

I haven't done them on the van yet, but had them done on my '40.
I hope you have the service manual, and have a good garage in town that has experience in doing them.
The new parts should include the kingpin, bushings, bearing and washer and lock pin. It may include new zerks and caps for each end too.
As mentioned, a bit of force is needed to get old worn parts out. Try not to damage the spindle and axle end, of course.
Bushings usually need to be reamed for fit after installation. That's why I mention a shop, since the tools are one time use (unless you have multiple vans) and require a bit of feel.

http://www.etoolcart.com/adjustable-king-pin-reamer.aspx

Look for a shop that does big trucks, street rods or an old time shop.
It's also a good time to clean and paint all those rusty, dirty, greasy parts!

EDIT
wrong year, but should give you some idea of the parts. It also does not mention replacing bushings and reaming.
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/94ll-hi-my-husband-is-replacing-the-kingpins-on-his-1979

oh my god

Steve,

Best to remove the axle, drive out the lock pin. Then put the end in a press and heat to push out the old pin. They are usually rusted into the axle.
61-63 is diffferent than 64-76. Both are the same diameter and the new bushings must be reamed to size before re-installing.
Check over at OldEconolines@yahoogroups for a more complete description.

thanks for the info guys, i'll do this job in the spring when it gets a bit warmer. i'll post some pics as i go. thanks again!

Howdy all,

I've recently recieved my new bush kit - and left them in the van.

It's been two days and they still haven't installed themselves......so I guess I'm going to have to do them (if the van is to pass the licence inspection).

No doubt in 7 - 10 days I'll know all about this job.

Regards,

Rhys

A shop press and torch to heat the rusted pin in the axle is useful.
Once the new bronze bushings are pressed in, they have to be reamed to size so the pin will fit with clearance for the grease to lubricate.
Be sure NOT to use TRW pins as the locking groove is cut too deep and will let the pin moove in the axle and destoy the axle.....

I just finished replacing my kingpins on my 67. My axle was damaged due to excessive wear. I had to take it to a machine shop and have a sleeve intsalled in both sides where the kingpin fits. What I thought was going to be a do it yourself $65 kinpin job turned into a $300+ project! But it there was a LOT of play in my drivers side wheel. Now its all good, along with a new tie rod end and a steering box adjustment. I might point out that the previous owner told me that the kinpins were bad. I just wasn't planning on the axle being damaged. Oh well on to all the other TLC that this this is crying out for!

Hi all,

I've stripped and replaced the king pin bushes (and shimmed any remaining play).

Having some difficulty knocking the pins in that secure the shaft in place. Seems that they don't want to go the last 1/2" to sit flush.

Anyone else had this problem.........am I worrying about nothing?

Regards,
Rhys

I believe that is what is expected. If the locking pin hole in the axle is tight, the locking pin will probably not go all the way in, stopping a little short of flush and swedging or mushrooming the head as you drive in until it stops..

Do a visual check to see if the slot is aligned vertically and is flat where the lock bolt goes in. The other pictures on page 1 should explain....

Thanks for that

The locking pin is positioned correctly on the groove of the king pin. In fact when turning the axle, I can detect a tiny ammount of movement in the kingpin as it turns with the steering then stops as it makes contact with the locking pin.

I'm guessing, therefore , that the locking pin will only go in as far as the locking pin hole ID in the axle will allow. The locking pin sits about 5-8mm proud (bit less tham the 1/2" posted earlier).

This concearn anyone else?

Cheers,
Rhys

That king pin shouldn't move at all in the axle. Like Don said , I would be checking if it is even the right pin. Something sure isnt right. Do the pins look okay? any sign of being beaten in alot?. Im not a Ford van guy ,but I have been around enough kingpinned axles..

First guess is to try inserting it in the other direction, but they are tapered so this is not likely.
Second is wrong parts.
Third is "make it work"
Open up the hole (kingpin out) a bit at a time until the locking pin fully seats in the hole without passing through AND locks the kingpin in place.
Not the best solution, but sometimes with old stuff this is the only choice.
I see that you are not in a location where there will be a local guy who has done a hundred of these vans.
However, heavy truck axles are universal. There should be someone that can look it over and help decide a reasonable fix.

Thanks again.........

Yes the king pin moves - slightly.

Bushes are new as are the kink pins and locking pins (Federal-Mogul kit). Picture below is one of the new locking pins, with one of the old.

No play between the new bushes and king pin.

Certainly the locking pin is tapered - as is the hole. They are the right way around.

mmmm...



Regards,
Rhys