I was wondering if anybody has run their van without the crash pan on. It's supposed to act like a venturi to funnel air , but in southern california it runs exstremely hot!!! Any suggestions? Thanks
+7
67a 100 pickup
DanTheVanMan
sasktrini
gp70
jkr
benwah
wylee
11 posters
Cooling without Crash Pan
wylee- Number of posts : 922
Location : middletown,ny
Registration date : 2009-04-03
- Post n°2
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
good qustion, i dont have one either...
benwah- Number of posts : 1135
Location : the land of broken dreams and shattered hopes CT
Registration date : 2008-07-05
- Post n°3
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
It runs hotter without one. Ive modified one on my 65, added a hoodscoop out of jc whitney, try to force more air to the rad. Ive seen other vanners mod their bellypans. It didnt hold up, the scoop cracked in half . So I replaced it before I left for the nats with a stock one and to my surprise it ran cooler than the one with the hoodscoop.
jkr- Number of posts : 1148
Location : prince edward island canada
Age : 66
Registration date : 2008-05-29
- Post n°4
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
did the same thing back in 77 with my van. cut a hole and added a scoop and it ran warmer. it lets the air escape rather than force it through the rad.
gp70- Number of posts : 162
Age : 68
Registration date : 2008-05-22
- Post n°5
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
I'm not an "A" guy but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn.
Here's a little info on hot A100's from the very knowledgable Yahoo A100 Group.
Hot Slants at Highway speeds.
Went through this 3 summers ago in my automatic, 225 with 2bbl, '67 PU. The Fieldmarshal was a big help on this too.
Tried everything, AND went overboard a bit too.
Exact same issue you are having. Took a few miles at 70, but climbed right up there just past the "P" of TEMP.
Made me uncomfortible so I would back er down to 55-60. Had the original stock (TALL) 2 core /6 rad.
Went to a new water pump and thermostat. No better.
Had a reman head handy so threw that on in case the previous owner of the engine never checked for cracks. No better.
Popped all the freeze plugs and flushed the block out. No better
Went to a correct Radiator shroud on a recored (3 core) HD /6 radiator. No better, BUT now it cruised in stop and go traffic perfect - normal.
At highway speeds it got HOT quicker???????
Changed Temp gage AND sending unit. Read a little lower but same highway results.
Changed the water pump to one with a different (AC it said) impellor. No Better.
Went to a bigger w/pump pulley to slow the pump down. No better
Tried every fan blade imaginable.
Stock 4 blade (2" smaller than the ID of the shroud). No better
Bigger stock 4 blade (1" smaller than the Shroud ID). No better.
5 blade. Again ran cooler in traffic. Highway - No better.
7 blade. Again cool in traffic. Highway No better.
Note here that the Fan WHAILING was almost unbareable.
5 blade Ford (wide blade) steel flex fan. No better.
Plastic 5 blade flex fan. No better.
REMOVED THE SHROUD ??????
F I X E D !!!!!!!!
Ended up with a Mopar 5 blade factory steel fan, NO SHROUD, 180 T/Stat.
At 70mph on a hot (over 80 degrees) day it just got up to the "P" but stayed there fine.
That shroud and the hi speed of the fan were actually BLOCKING the air flow through the Radiator.
One more issue with our "A"s is the dog house. The Fan can fill the it with all that hot air and it has to GET OUT some where. Make sure any sound deadener/insulation isn't blocking its path back OUT around the engine.
Also, with all that heat in there I found that cold air induction from outside the Dog House and an exhaust fan for after you shut it off, makes for a happier Carburetor and easier restarts too.
Here's a little info on hot A100's from the very knowledgable Yahoo A100 Group.
Hot Slants at Highway speeds.
Went through this 3 summers ago in my automatic, 225 with 2bbl, '67 PU. The Fieldmarshal was a big help on this too.
Tried everything, AND went overboard a bit too.
Exact same issue you are having. Took a few miles at 70, but climbed right up there just past the "P" of TEMP.
Made me uncomfortible so I would back er down to 55-60. Had the original stock (TALL) 2 core /6 rad.
Went to a new water pump and thermostat. No better.
Had a reman head handy so threw that on in case the previous owner of the engine never checked for cracks. No better.
Popped all the freeze plugs and flushed the block out. No better
Went to a correct Radiator shroud on a recored (3 core) HD /6 radiator. No better, BUT now it cruised in stop and go traffic perfect - normal.
At highway speeds it got HOT quicker???????
Changed Temp gage AND sending unit. Read a little lower but same highway results.
Changed the water pump to one with a different (AC it said) impellor. No Better.
Went to a bigger w/pump pulley to slow the pump down. No better
Tried every fan blade imaginable.
Stock 4 blade (2" smaller than the ID of the shroud). No better
Bigger stock 4 blade (1" smaller than the Shroud ID). No better.
5 blade. Again ran cooler in traffic. Highway - No better.
7 blade. Again cool in traffic. Highway No better.
Note here that the Fan WHAILING was almost unbareable.
5 blade Ford (wide blade) steel flex fan. No better.
Plastic 5 blade flex fan. No better.
REMOVED THE SHROUD ??????
F I X E D !!!!!!!!
Ended up with a Mopar 5 blade factory steel fan, NO SHROUD, 180 T/Stat.
At 70mph on a hot (over 80 degrees) day it just got up to the "P" but stayed there fine.
That shroud and the hi speed of the fan were actually BLOCKING the air flow through the Radiator.
One more issue with our "A"s is the dog house. The Fan can fill the it with all that hot air and it has to GET OUT some where. Make sure any sound deadener/insulation isn't blocking its path back OUT around the engine.
Also, with all that heat in there I found that cold air induction from outside the Dog House and an exhaust fan for after you shut it off, makes for a happier Carburetor and easier restarts too.
wylee- Number of posts : 922
Location : middletown,ny
Registration date : 2009-04-03
- Post n°6
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
thanks so much for the info...
benwah- Number of posts : 1135
Location : the land of broken dreams and shattered hopes CT
Registration date : 2008-07-05
- Post n°7
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
Neither of my As have a radiator shrowd,- didnt even know they came with one. Mabee just the late modles had these? My next mod on my van will be a late 80s Dodge air cleaner with the flexible hose to get cooler air to the carburator.
sasktrini- Number of posts : 2067
Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Registration date : 2008-05-20
- Post n°8
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
Good info!
DanTheVanMan- Commissioner
- Number of posts : 7905
Location : Escanaba, Michigan
Age : 62
Registration date : 2008-10-08
- Post n°9
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
gutter1,
Many things have been tried to help with the cooling. Adding an Electric fan an or "Tunneling" your dog house seem to be the only two things that really work..
Many things have been tried to help with the cooling. Adding an Electric fan an or "Tunneling" your dog house seem to be the only two things that really work..
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DanTheVanMan
1965 Chevy G10 Sportvan Custom
1984 Jeep CJ-7 Laredo, Restored
2004 Kawasaki KLR650
1997 Jeep TJ Sport
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67a 100 pickup- Number of posts : 1319
Location : ann arbor, mi
Registration date : 2009-01-29
- Post n°10
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
My /6 doesn't have a shroud, but both of the 318 radiators have shrouds... maybe it's a V-8 thing???? Mine stays cooler with the pan on, but if you have any damage to the panel under the grill it can be a real bear to install the belly pan.
thecruger- Number of posts : 205
Location : North East Ohio
Registration date : 2008-11-27
- Post n°11
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
my 70 does not have a shroud (don't know if it ever did) .. running a 318
and i have been running it without the belly pan.
the temp stays between 195 and 200..
i took the belly pan off when i replaced the brake system and
never got around to putting it back on..
will have to put it back on just to see if it runs any cooler..
and i have been running it without the belly pan.
the temp stays between 195 and 200..
i took the belly pan off when i replaced the brake system and
never got around to putting it back on..
will have to put it back on just to see if it runs any cooler..
oo3- Number of posts : 290
Location : new orleans
Registration date : 2008-06-01
- Post n°12
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
my 66 with 6 has the metal shroud - i also have had my belly pan off for awhile - changed timing set, water pump and had rad checked - meaning to do some brake line redo and electrical so have not put pan back on - according to my aftermarket gauge i run around 190 - when i first had the van it did run a bit hotter - after timing set and timing ignition closer to what it should be it ran cooler - even without the pan - interesting about no shroud for hiway temp improvement - may have to try that someday - oo3
itruns- Number of posts : 1605
Location : Chicago, IL
Registration date : 2008-07-03
- Post n°13
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
benwah wrote:It runs hotter without one. Ive modified one on my 65, added a hoodscoop out of jc whitney, try to force more air to the rad. Ive seen other vanners mod their bellypans. It didnt hold up, the scoop cracked in half . So I replaced it before I left for the nats with a stock one and to my surprise it ran cooler than the one with the hoodscoop.
How far forward did you place it? I'm hoping I didn't make a mistake by doing mine. Took me months and months to get it from my fabricator.
69 a 100- Number of posts : 142
Location : Rochester,NY
Registration date : 2009-01-03
- Post n°14
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
i have the origanal belly pan and i have no problems never over 185 with the 318
67a 100 pickup- Number of posts : 1319
Location : ann arbor, mi
Registration date : 2009-01-29
- Post n°15
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
it runs... the front edge of the pan bolts to the lip of the body below the front grill. I think it was four 1/4-20 bolts.
itruns- Number of posts : 1605
Location : Chicago, IL
Registration date : 2008-07-03
- Post n°16
Re: Cooling without Crash Pan
67a 100 pickup wrote:it runs... the front edge of the pan bolts to the lip of the body below the front grill. I think it was four 1/4-20 bolts.
Yeah, mine had front end damage at one time, so it's got the smiley face goin' on.
I'm using 2 - 5/16 x 1" bolts with those sheet metal clip nuts to hold it on in the front.
A guy from the Yahoo site that has the Blue 8 door has a shinny custom big belly pan with an integrated big scoop. He said he picked up a decent amount of HP + MPG by forcing a lot of cooler air into the doghouse. His has extra leaf springs, so he has the body height to accommodate the scoop.
There is also a guy with a 440 BB that just cut a hole in the back of the doghouse and floor then added a box so that the hot air has somewhere to quickly exit.
I'll try to get some pics up and update my 'project' after the weekend.