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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


4 posters

    G10 brakes restoration while on a budget...questions/concerns...

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    booboojerkers


    Number of posts : 32
    Location : Southern California
    Registration date : 2010-04-14

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    Post by booboojerkers Sun Aug 21, 2022 10:27 pm

    I'm trying to revive my brake system without investing too much (at first), want to get the installed (or maybe a cheap rebuilt type) stock single master cylinder working with the original lines to the rear drum and the front disk with as many of the existing parts as possible. (I'm replacing at least the rear shoes & wheel cylinders, front pads and calipers)

    The existing lines look corroded from the outside, but I think they may be revivable on the inside since they haven't been taken apart for some time, they have somewhat clear dripping fluid, and they've probably been in place since they were working last with whoever the last owner was...who knows how many years ago (20? 30+?). In other words, its in stock-ish condition, not a gutted van (it used to have working brakes before it just sat for decades)

    After replacing the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders I continued on to see if I could get the lines to the rear brakes to flow with pressure and engage the wheel cylinders to the shoes.  The fluid was dirty in the master cylinder and removed what I could in the master cylinder chamber and replaced it with new fluid. Then I proceeded to bleed the brakes from the back with the "buddy system" pump and bleed method.  It worked at first with pressure coming through the bleed, with fluid coming through but then stopped and now there's no pressure and flow in the line.  I may have-- but not sure-- if either some dirt contamination or air got in the line, but its no longer flowing with pressure at the moment. I was able to drain through and replace the fluid in the master cylinder a couple times before it stopped flowing. I've decided I'm gonna go ahead and replace the front brake pads and calipers next before worrying about getting the pressure going to the back, and work on the line flow and pressure last once I now I have clean and new parts on all four wheels. The front brakes need replacement regardless.

    My question out to you is, is there a suggested method to use some kind of pneumatic vacuum tool that I can use to force flush my lines, from any of the front or back wheel bleeders on any of the wheels, to and fro? I'm ok with investing in something that I can hook up to my compressor and use to force feed and flush the lines through the whole system if its not too expensive. And I may go ahead and replace my master cylinder while doing so, but I'd like to get the one in place working if possible with just the lines flushed and flowing.

    Or is there another method you'd suggest all together to get the lines flowing with the existing master cylinder in some other way?

    This will be a last ditch effort before I decide to replace all the solid lines (I think there are 8 of them). And I'd also like to try and use my existing  master cylinder, to just get what I have working if possible.

    thanks, bbj
    Dan Scully
    Dan Scully


    Number of posts : 255
    Location : Apple Valley Ca
    Age : 67
    Registration date : 2016-07-30

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    Post by Dan Scully Sun Aug 21, 2022 11:11 pm

    What year is your van? If it has factory disc brakes in the front it has a metering valve. This explains it pretty well and probably is your problem.

    avatar
    booboojerkers


    Number of posts : 32
    Location : Southern California
    Registration date : 2010-04-14

    G10 brakes restoration while on a budget...questions/concerns... Empty Re: G10 brakes restoration while on a budget...questions/concerns...

    Post by booboojerkers Tue Aug 23, 2022 1:45 pm

    This is a 1965. Yesterday I took off front tires and realized it's drum brakes on both front and back. And it has a single barrel/chamber master cylinder so this makes since (if it had back drum and front disc it'd have a two barrel master cylinder).  And the brake fluid is flowing in the front and it engages the wheel cylinder hammers on the front, so my flow problem to the back must be a clog or maybe air in the lines. I don't think this earlier model has a differentiator...at least I don't readily see one so far, so thanks for the video tip but not sure if that's an issue unless you know whether or not this model has a differentiator?  Any tips or suggestions are appreciated regarding a way to get my pressure flowing in the back lines...maybe it's an air pocket?
    Dan Scully
    Dan Scully


    Number of posts : 255
    Location : Apple Valley Ca
    Age : 67
    Registration date : 2016-07-30

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    Post by Dan Scully Tue Aug 23, 2022 2:39 pm

    All it will have is a distribution block.  There is restriction some were, should push fluid with  just the master cylinder. I would chk the rear flex line at the rear, rubber lines get old and collapse internally.


    Last edited by Dan Scully on Tue Aug 23, 2022 2:40 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : txt)
    Russell
    Russell


    Number of posts : 698
    Location : Chula Vista, Ca.
    Age : 64
    Registration date : 2015-12-08

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    Post by Russell Wed Aug 24, 2022 7:53 am

    Like Dan said, it's probably the rubber line above the rear end. Take it off and have someone push the pedal to see if fluid comes out, if not, unhook the metal lines back to the front 1 at a time.

    booboojerkers and Dan Scully like this post

    gfleduc
    gfleduc


    Number of posts : 376
    Location : Kingwood Texas
    Age : 69
    Registration date : 2015-09-19

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    Post by gfleduc Wed Aug 24, 2022 3:54 pm

    Ditto on the rear lines - had the exact issue on my '65 - the steel lines also would not flow - I finally replaced them to get fluid flowing.

    If you crack the line open and let it sit- even overnight with a bucket you may be able to determine if the line is open

    booboojerkers likes this post


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