by RodStRace Wed Aug 19, 2020 2:59 pm
Arkansastraveler70 wrote:look the same size, maybe a slight bit deeper... I wanted to make sure these drums would fit. I'll be damned if they seem a bit too small to slip on.
Sitting the new hub on the old one they look the exact same size.
Too small in which way?
Flip the drum backwards and make sure the lug holes align and the center hole will fit over the axle stub.
Make sure the depth is the same. Some brakes were 2.5" deep. This would bottom out on the backing plate before the drum is seated on the axle. This is easy to check by using a ruler to check the finish cut width inside the drum. It will be a bit wider than the spec (2").
Now, if the only thing hanging up the drum from slipping over the axle and seating are the brake shoes, you will have to either remove them completely or turn the adjuster so the shoes contract enough to allow the drum to slip over, as donnivan mentioned.
The drums must be 'unused' if they need to be returned, so try not to get them all dirty and scuffed slipping them over old parts. How would you feel if you got 'new' parts that had grubby prints, brake dust and scratches on them?
Old drums will be turned or cut to a larger inside diameter, so
this is very common and normal for a basic brake job. The legal maximum limit on turning is 0.060" or "sixty thousandths". On a 10" drum, it should not be cut past 10.060", although if it was cut close to or at the limit, it can be worn to even larger.
Beyond the basic brake shoe, hardware and drum replacement, check the outer axle bearings, backing plate for bending or gouges, the E brake components/operation and lug studs and nuts for wear, along with the rear spring bushings, axle fluid level and tightness of spring/hanger/driveshaft fasteners.
