AzDon's 108

Don,  Is there an "R value" on the Elasto-Kool?  Just wondering how much it reduces heat.
Thanks,
Jim

jrdunn96 wrote:Don,  Is there an "R value" on the Elasto-Kool?  Just wondering how much it reduces heat.
Thanks,
Jim

The claims made by the manufacturer regarding heat reduction are mainly about UV reflectivity (sunlight) and do not have any r-value claim....

My intent in using this product is more about putting a tough impermeable barrier that is flexible yet sticks and cuts noise and vibration..... I painted the floor of my 68 suburban with it and was quite happy with the results, but this stuff is not insulation and any paint-on product that claims it is (like lizard skin) is being less than honest.....I will coat the entire inside of my van with this stuff as a good tough base to seal the metal before insulating ....
It's every bit as tough as rhino linings and a much better buy at $65 for 5 gallons!
I painted my back patio with the stuff and overcoated it with exterior latex (for color) five years ago and still looks awesome..... I'm even considering painting the van's exterior roof with this stuff!

Awesome work and great info on that sealer! Thanks for all the pics and please keep the postings coming...it's fun to learn from someone with your skillsets! The Van is coming along Nicely. Do you love the color white or is that mainly to keep things Cool in the Hot Arizona sunlight?

More Progress!




Threw down for a crank adjustable sling bar and it's the best $35 I've ever spent..... 305 and 700r4 settin in here because I feared that I haven't built a big enough box for the 454/4L80...




Pretty low!... 4.5" from the lowest scoop tier to the ground..... getting out of my launchramp driveway may be a challenge....





with three of the walls around the engine....

wow a lot of sweet work going on here
love it...

So here is a bracket I made that two Harbor Freight wagon wheel hubs with bearings ($ bolt through to hold a bell-crank shaft....





This pic and the next one show the assembly painted and assembled with the bell crank in place that shifts the transmission from the cable..... The straight bottom link was just temporary until heim joints arrived...

Since my last post, I set the posi from a 91 wagon up for leaf springs and four shocks and mounted it in the van (no pics yet) and I also had Speedway build and send me a driveshaft 17 1/2" cup2cup (fits perfect!) and built and installed the pieces to hook the wagon e-brake to the former clutch pedal and hooked up the hydraulic brake lines.... I really need to get some pics!
So here's a pic of a side project mostly completed..... Volkswagen bus stainless side mirrors mounted on handmade custom riser brackets that use the stock three-bolt pattern on the doors...

Got the posi axle installed and set it up to use 4 shocks if I want to, or I can stagger them like third gen.... I also got the trans crossmember painted and bolted up......I hooked up the posi's e-brake setup to my clutch pedal  and hooked up the hydraulic brake lines....







This picture shows the new driveshaft and above it the bracket that holds the e-brake cable collar....... and above that, the thru-frame sleeve top shock mount and you can see where the bottom of both a front and rear shock can mount to the axle....
I set the engine/trans at a 2.3 degree angle to the ground and the posi pinion shaft is at 2 degrees up.....The driveshaft is 17.5" cup2cup and has a 1.125" incline which is 3.8 degrees up to the trans....This incline will flatten some when the van has gas in it, tools, spare tire and interior in the rear...... It has .3 degrees factored in at the diff for "spring wrap" under acceleration (probably unnecessary)
The forward rake is 4.4 degrees and the caster angle is 4 degrees positive (so 8.4 degrees if there was zero forward rake)..... The final choice of front/rear tire sizing may change the caster number...... All degrees shown are measured from a zero angle concrete garage floor with a weighted digital protractor gauge...





Posi with leaf pads and shock mounts welded before black paint...




Here is the heim link I made to pull the ebrake cable with the clutch pedal arm.....The cable I used is for a 83 s10....






Modified third-gen trans crossmember with frame brackets for vertical adjustment and a forward extension (blue) for the 700r4 mount




frame mount for crossmember...

]


Brake lines...




E-brake cable cuff bracket... The 91 posi has a unique setup where the right cable's cuff is anchored and the cable is pulled by the left (black) cable's cuff.... The left cable is pulled by the clutch pedal..... The tension is adjusted for everything where the end of the right cable hooks onto the left cable's cuff...
Also, you can see the front shock thru-sleeve above....





Here is my "Big rig" 18 inch steering wheel and the e-brake rod that holds the clutch pedal down for parking.... This rod goes under the seat while driving.....clutch pedal provides cable brakes while middle pedal is hydraulic brakes....BOTH pedals for panic stops!

Lots of progress since my last posting...
All brake lines done and I made a permanently mounted bleeder hat for the master cylinder that doubles as a remote fill and bled the brakes....
Built bracketry for the ECM and wagon's fuseblock, the knock module, two relays for the fuel pump and one relay that jumps power from battery to ignition auxiliary to the keyswitch (and a spare relay)
Wired this entire powerwall to the engine, dash, batteries, and overhead console
Wired the existing dash2engine harness to the starter, coil, battery power, gauges, electric fan, DRAC module, and tcc....The van's factory brake light switch is also wired to a cutout relay for the tcc clutch to disengage when braking....
The dash is wired in harmony with the powerwall through the passenger side A-pillar, and console wiring is pulled up from the powerwall through the first crossbeam...
I made up all the necessary battery cables to service two alternators and batteries and installed three battery switches in the panel below the powerwall with the cables exiting thru grommets in the inner rocker panel...
I built a center overhead console to house some necessary toggle switches and also made an aluminum machine-turned faceplate for the center of the dash to house a few switches that were better in the dash.....
I've decided on low-back forklift seats from Amazon that I'm going to lower by cutting a couple of inches of foam from.... I've mounted the driver seat so it can be quickly pulled for radiator lid access and I'll do the passenger seat the same!..... I need to go back and take more pics, but I can post a few now... (next post)

Sooo....

First three pics are of my new custom battery rack...freshly welded and painted and installed in the third pic.....
The second battery drops in first and is slid back and locked down before installint the front one.... Each battery is wired separately to it's own alternator with only the front battery being wired into the vehicle's systems and starter and the second battery having a tie-in crossover switch....I'm hopig to be able to run a 5kBTU a/c from an invertor off of the second battery/alternator...














Next up is a couple of pictures of my powerwall...




In this pic, four relays across the top... ECM, fuseblock, knock module, and ALDL plug in second row with raw unfused ignition connection right above fuseblock...Harness going up on the right is for the console. Up to the left (hidden) is a harness to the dash, and the harness down to the left is the engine ECM harness....The lower panel with the battery switches is open to the rocker panels, so the grommets for the battery cables are below the floor





In this pic, the battery switches and cables are installed and you can see one of the grommets below the floor.... The top two switches cut power from the negative cables to the van.... The lower switch ties the two batteries together...




Here is a picture of my driver seat base frame.... The piece of 3/4" wood bolted to the bottom of the seat locks into the frame while anybody is seated, but can be pulled out quickly to access the center hatch lid (rubber edged) About a third of the seat sets on that lid




And here is with the seat locked in...

Well done Don! Please let us know how it works out with the A/C...

Well it's been awhile since I posted pics and I have a bazillion to post!.....Since I last posted, I built an overhead console to house some necessary switches.....WIRING WIRING for what seemed like a month!...including the customized TBI harness from the donor car and a Intellitronix 62-65 Nova instrument panel..... I got a "gasser scoop" from Speedway motors and made a proper adapter plate and riser tube to make it work on my throttle body....I completed and painted the seat bases, installed seats and seat belts..... Made a lid for my engine box..... Fabbed up some side-dump 3.5 inch pipes.....Completed a (seems like) hundred small projects to move completion closer.....I've now got it running and capable of moving under it's own power.....All electricals work flawlessly and the electric fan cools from 190 down to 170 while sitting still!.....need front tires, tags, and insurance to start cruisin it.....I'll start posting pics tomorrow...

pic of my left pipe and rear daisy wheel

Love the matching pipes and daisy wheels! They really Pop.against the white on the van…Looks Fantastic!!!

Can’t wait to see the rest of the pics!

Well, I'm not sure where to start, so I guess I'll start with coating the floor with elastomeric...



The first pic shows a section of floor that wasn't painted yet...



The slots in the floor are where I slipped two foot pieces of 2" square by 1/4 wall tubes into the chassis rails to bolt the engine and trans mounts through to something solid....


Next up, Engine box and lid...

.

Completed box and lid with right side panel out...







Lid up showing hinge and structural rails...



First two pics showing new scoop and four sidewalls in place...There are two rows of rubber seals, one on the box pieces and one on the bottom of the lid.... Both are inside of the hood pins, which fasten outside of the engine compartment....







This pic shows the underside aluminum pieces that are strung together with aluminum rails before the wood top went on...

Now the Dash...



New machine turned center switch panel before dash paint...




Dash getting paint...




With new intellitronix digital panel installed (more on that later)


Wanna see my overhead console?

The frame and the faceplate hang the whole shebang and the sides screw on.... The harness for the electricals are pulled through the first cross-brace from the power wall the sides are 7/16 OSB that I coated with elastomeric and painted black for a textured vinyl-like finish.... Here is a pic of the left side which has three power sockets..... one for each battery and one for ignition.... I can plug the voltmeter into whichever I'm curious about...

Someone has been Busy!!! Looks Outstanding work!!!

AzDon wrote:Sooo....




Here is a picture of my driver seat base frame.... The piece of 3/4" wood bolted to the bottom of the seat locks into the frame while anybody is seated, but can be pulled out quickly to access the center hatch lid (rubber edged) About a third of the seat sets on that lid




And here is with the seat locked in...

A few more pics of the seat base frames and the boards that fit into them and mount the seats so they can be removed quickly for radiator-area access...






The outer 2/3 of each seat bolts to the boards which set into their frames with the front in by pins and the boards also center the aluminum radiator cover and keep the rubber seal in place on the edge of the aluminum... The inner 1/3 each seat rests on top of the rad cover...When the box lid is pinned down, it holds the rad cover down and the seats help....

So here is some pics of my new intellitronix instrument panel that is manufactured for a 62-65 Nova.....It required some massaging and modifications and frankly, I consider the kit kind of incomplete because the way you stack the component panels really doesn't work, as shipped....I had to divine the intent from questions asked of customer service and make some of my own pieces to satisfy the specs.....The wires just individually dangle from their solder points on the pc board (no plug and socket) and there is no provisions in their directions to protect everything inside from dust....I re-used the rear shell of the original panel and made filtered cover plates... I also added my own plug and socket from the donor car's wiring harness....
The pics:



I'll start with the finished lit panel....It's blue LEDs and the tach and speedo have a series of blocks that light in a circle as you gain speed or RPM... The first block is displayed at about seven-o-clock on both gauges...




In pictures two and three, you can see that it is a blacked-out panel when not running.....The smoked lens with the kit is acrylic, so I loaded it behind the factory glass because glass cleans nicely without scratches...


...

So here are some pics of the items they ship...




These two pictures show how cheezy and unprotected the wires are....



Below is the panel which is on the front side of the circuit board.... It presses against the inside of the lens (but directions don't say to).... The pc panel fits snugly into the van bezel without mods, but the lens and back panel needed a bit of filing...



Here is some pictures of the rear shell and backside cover pieces I made for dust protection and the plug I ran all the wires through...






Ready for install...

So lets talk about the cool "gasser scoop" that is available for about $100 from Speedway Motors....
The scoop itself is cast aluminum and is freakin awesome!..... It bolts onto a plate that is held down on a carb by the aircleaner center stud....This plate is thin steel with slotted holes and frankly kind of cheezy....
It has no provisions for use with a GM throttle body, so I was forced to make my own stuff.....I had a piece of quarter inch wall aluminum tube in the correct size to make a riser tube.....The I made a plate out of 3/8 aluminum that bolts down to the TBI via the original two TBI air cleaner bolts....The adapter plate is also threaded for a 1/4" air cleaner center stud and the four bolts for the scoop....It also houses the intake air temp sensor.....I cut the necessary air holes to fit within the air cleaner with hole saws and drill bits....
Pictures:



Here is the scoop with the original cheezy base plate and rather small air filter.... A taller fiter from K&N will fit....




Here is the finished base plate in 3/8 aluminum....




Here is the riser tube in place...



This shows the plate bolted down with the filter stud...




Here is the plate bolted to the bottom of the scoop.... note the circle indicating the inside dsiameter of the filter which is also the same diameter as the inside of the riser tube....




Here is with the short filter in place...Obviously, I later cut the stud down to fit inside the scoop and also put the hole in the right front for the intake air temp sensor....I put 1/4 bolts down through the threaded holes as de-facto studs to bolt the hat down to the plate with double nuts at all four corners...

very nice work going on there. The van nats are in Ohio this year great place to show your van ,

I want to hear how it drives with the spring on the bottom of the axle!

Finally running!

Congrats Don!!! A lot of hard work to get there. Now comes the fun stuff!!!
Absolutely love what you did with those rims!

Nice project! I dig those wheels!

I gotta post more pics!