Anyone ever think of doing this...

Lotta folks wonder about how or where to get nice rubber mats for the front of the van, the driver-pax floorboard.

Anyone ever think of doing a Rhino Lining type finish, instead of mats or carpet?

Seems like it would wear well, and you could taper it to fit what you need around openings and such.

It comes in colors now, and you can get it almost as thin or thick as you want...

Just wondering...

Yea...may be the way to go. I've been trying to put together a deal to get some rubber mats done...but it's been slow going.

I will be lining the whole floor, front and cargo area, in the Handi. Then maybe I will add some carpet to just the front passenger area.

Yep, did it!
I did my 84 Jeep CJ about 7 years ago and it worked great!
Decided to do the van when I couldn't find rubber matting for the van. Front, back and 6 " up the sides....

Dan, did you happen to take any photos of the steps involved?

I have the Jeep done at the 4X4 shop. And the van was really simple. I just bought the Hercules Bed liner kit from Walmart. It worked great!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Surface Preparation:
1. Surface to be coated must be cleaned with lacquer thinner. Loose paint/rust should be removed and affected areas treated and
primed. Bare metal area should be primed. I used (POR 15) as a base sealant coat.
2. Scuff/sand area with 80-120 grit sandpaper. Blow out sanding residue and whip clean.
3. Mask all areas that you do not want coated.

APPLICATION:
1. Gradually pour contents of Part B Polymer Resin into the gallon can of Part A Black Base material while mixing.
2. Add all of the Part C Accelerator that’s in the dropper bottle into the 1 gallon can of part A black resin.
3. Mix vigorously by hand for 5 minutes using a paint mixing stick.
4. Apply immediately after mixing. Note: Must be applied within 30 minutes.
Brushing:
Apply with a natural or synthetic brush (included in kit) in even strokes until sufficient coverage is achieved.
Rolling:
Apply with roller; apply even coats until required finish is achieved.
Spraying:
Pour mixed contents into can (attach the pneumatic applicator gun) or and at 40 – 60 PSI spray one even coat until coverage is uniform. Spraying thickness is 2-3 mil dust coat can
be applied to even texture. If additional thickness is wanted (10 mil coat) is wanted allow your first coat to flash for approximately 20 minutes at 72 degrees prior to applying 2nd coat. Cooler temperatures require a longer flash time.
Dry Times•Light Duty in 36 hours at the temperature a minimum of 72 degrees. questions.
•Full Cure in 48 hours.

Note: Avoid water contact on surface for minimum 24 hours. And avoid applying any materials on or near catalytic converters & mufflers due to extreme heat.

*** I used the roller that came with the kit. Wear gloves, mask and eye protection. At one point or another all three of these will save you. Whether it touches your hands, eyes, face or even your mouth it has to wear off and would suck in your eyes.

I did it to both mine. great for hiding years of use....

WOW Wdaguy. that looks great! Seeing this makes me wish I had done mine in blue since the van will be about that color blue when it's painted... Of course 99% will be covered anyway, I just like the way it looks!!!!

There you go Wacko, that's an awsome pic!!!

I'm alway's so focused on the work I always forget to stop from time to time and take pictures.....

Very Nice Job Wdaguy!
That looks absolutely professional!
I do like that Blue, too.
umm, and that nasty looking' little mouse motor!

Good to know others have tried this, but I was thinking' I had a cool original idea...
Guess there really is 'nothing new under the sun'

Looking at the pic with the doghouse removed, and the heater box under the dash, I wonder if there's a way to remount the heating components somewhere other than where Chevy put it.

I always was trying' to figure out a way to 'clean up' the look of the underdash area.

I wonder if there's some compact but efficient aftermarket unit that could be mounted under the angled area outside the frame rail on the pax side, so that the fan and heatbox aren't in the cab, noisy and hanging out.

Then all that would be needed would be a bit of ducting to bring in the defroster and heating airs, and that could be designed to both look nice and cover other stuff dangling under the dash.