700 R4 Transmission - Anybody run one?

I want to move to an auto trans and I like the 2 wire 700's. (No black boxes)
I was wondering if anyone had ever used one or if a 350 or 400 would be better? I'd like to have the extra gear for going down the road and maybe wringing out a little more mileage. The 292 I have in it should push it fine, I would think.
Any tips, suggestions or comments?
Thanks,
Chaz

have had both the 700 and the 200 behind my 292. 700 has a lower first, the reason I selected, but bigger drop between 1st and 2nd. the 200 is easier to install and uses the same length driveshaft. either one requires t.v. cable be correct. its not a kick down cable and these trannies got a bad reputation over misadjusted cables. I have fabbed brackets for both the monojet and the weber so I can get you that info, with a 4 barrel, just by the 'correcter' bracket. I might have the monojet bracket at the shop still. its there, I might be able to find it.

Thanks buddy!
Right now I have the stock mono on it but I also have a Weber for it. Not sure which way I want to go. It is a brand new rebuilt 292 and he had it running with the mono. Any suggestions on which way to go there? The two barrel was on the original 194 that was in the van. It's brand new too, so I might use it as I also have an air cleaner for it. I'm flipping the dog house lid (to accommodate a bigger radiator, and "fabbing" the area over the carb for it to fit. (arm rest) Just a picture of your bracket would be great! I have a fab shop I can build about anything I need.
So what do you think of the 292 w/700 combination? Worth it? Hope so!
Thank you for your time and help!!!!!!!
Chaz

I am looking at doing the 200R swap in my stock 230 Van. I would also be interested in any info you have on the Weber bracket as I am running the 32/36. Do we know what the idea transmission to rob is? What vehicle to hunt down? Thanks in advance.

I am running a 700R4 and a 200R4 in my 90s.
I find the drive shaft to be too short when the 700 is in a 90". just cant get rid of drive line vibes induced by rear end torquing and that is because of the drive shaft being only 19".

I finally found, and got back from the rebuilder, my 700R. It came out of a '88 or '89 Camaro. Should be what the doctor ordered. She goes in tomorrow.
Any of you know if the old 3spd and all it's peripherals are worth anything? It works fine, I just wanted an auto for my girlfriend and an overdrive. It might help the mileage a touch.

Did you guys who run 700's have to trim the cross member that the original 3spd hung from?? I had to carve about an inch off of it for the engine to keep the proper angle. But , it was only off the front part. The back half can stay intact.

others lowered the engine Xmember with 1" blocks

https://i.servimg.com/u/f38/17/93/81/38/img_0213.jpg

I did cut the x-member.

Sorry I didn’t see your post sooner. Lots of info on how I did the 700R4 on my van’s thread:

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t1038-back-to-vanagains-newest-65-chevy-sportvan-deluxe#5330

And I helped Scott put a 200R4 in his.
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t28550-scottyjones-1965-chevy-sportvan-deluxe-travel-cruiser

We both have 250s and had no trouble running these newer trannies.

I fabricated a hanger for ours to avoid having a crossmember under the tranny and I n the way. I’ve got extra steel pipe for the top of the hanger that fits the rubber bushings.

I lowered my engine with 1.5” blocks and made my tranny hanger drop the tranny down just enough to keep the tranny from hitting that crossmember. On Scott’s we made two cuts in the lip of the crossmember and used a jack to bend it up out of the way.

I too would like to see your TV bracket. I fiddled around quite a bit to get the throw  just right on mine. Turns out I didn’t get it quite right though. Recently learned that my TV cable reaches its limit a bit too soon, which keeps my carb from reaching full throttle!

Here’s a bit of info from a guy at Bowtie Overdrive that I wish I had had sooner:
The TV cable on a 700R4 should move 1.59" from idle to full throttle. That moves the other end of the cable from just touching the plunger to fully depressing the plunger. This is all determined by the length (or radius) of the lever you attach to your throttle linkage. So I’ve got to shorten mine slightly. Make sense?!

Another important question: What is the gear ratio in your rear end? Mine is the 3.73:1. I think I would do better on the freeway with the more common 3.36:1, and still have enough power when starting off due to the low first gear. Right now I can get 2nd gear scratch!

I notched the cross member. I really did not want to get in to other possible clearance/angle issues and work. I figure stock would probably be best and easiest to do.
I went side to side with my mount. I used 1/4'' plate on the sides and 2'' channel. I think it looks pretty good. I also made sure the tranny angle and rear end angle were the same. un That is very important, as I'm sure you know.
That is good info on the TV cable!!! I will keep that in mind when building mine. A buddy of mine, who built my tranny, is adamant on getting this correct so I have a watchful eye on this. I can post pix when I get it done.
Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure mine is 4.11. That is a big reason for going with the 700. One day I may put in a higher gear but, for now, it will have to do. I think my 292 could push a higher gear easy enough. I will just need to find out the sweet spot rpm for it and try to match it.
Speaking of mounts, I am going to build a trailer hitch under mine while I;m at it. I'll start another thread for that in case others might be interested. It won't be for pulling a Cigarette Boat or anything but, it will be well built enough to trust a motorcycle trailer with my '46 Knucklehead on it or my Meyers Manx style dune buggy. Plus, they are nice for a platform. for gear and generator etc.
Thanks again for the info!! I appreciate it!!! I'll keep pix coming.
Chaz

P.S.
One more thing that I think might be cool, I am working on the dimensions for using the stock 3spd shifter as my auto shifter. The top rod with just a small amount of tweeking fits pretty close. I'm sure there will be mods to be made but I think it will work.
Later Man....

Yes! I'm considering using the top gate for auto trans shifter and locking the bottom gate's neutral slot in the "park" position so that the shifter drops into it when you push it up into park...…. I think I will use a 43c morse cable to actually bridge the distance though....

Another thing I'm designing is a setup to use the clutch pedal assembly as the e-brake....

I have mine in. Works GREAT!! I removed the bottom linkage arm so it won't rattle, since I'm not using it. I only had to tweek the linkage a little bit. The bracket, about 2'' long or so, that was bolted to the trany shifter bolt for attaching the cable, was also about perfect. I just welded a 3/8'' bolt to the lowest corner and welded a plate on the linkage rod and bolted it together. I made a hard plastic bushing in between the two.
I got all those parts if someone is looking for them.
The clutch pedal/e-brake sounds way trick!!! I doubt I will have the inspiration to do anything like that but it would be very cool. I wanted to keep mine in place and just put a big spring on it, for fun but, I'm pulling it out. I kinda like the idea of more leg room.
Now for the hitch... (another thread)