brake, running light, blinker question.

Hey hey! So brake lights and blinker have been out since I bought my e pup. Gonna start with the basics first, bulbs and fuse. Something tells me it may be the wring though. Still figuring out how the whole system works. I feel stupid even asking but is there a trick to getting these bulbs out? Do they spin or pop in and out? Passenger side won't move and the space is so tight you can't really get a grip on bulb. Feel like I'm gonna crush it with my finger tips. Driver side twists left and right but then stops before locking up. Any pointers and how the whole brake light, blinker, running light combo works would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Laserwolf

They should push in just a little then turn counter clockwise and pull out.
Sometimes they will break the bulb if they've been in there awhile, then use some needle nose pliers to grab the metal side, once it's out you'll see how they work.
Also there are 2 pins on the side of the metal part of the bulb that fit into the socket, 1 side fits deeper than the other.
1 side of bottom lines up for tail light, the other one is brake and turn together.
the hot lead for the brake light goes through the turn signal switch before heading back to the light, the switch and flasher interupt the brakelight while blinking.
Usually that's where your going to find your problem, in the turn signal switch.

Thanks brother, great info! Got them out. One broke and the other popped out. Horn, temperature and gas gauge do not work either. My wiring is an absolute mess.

Any suggestions for a complete wiring harness set? A quick goggle search didn't come up with anything.

When you step on the brakes, the brake light switch tells the turn signal switch to turn on the brake lights,,,,,,and then you got your turn signals,,,,,,,so see what you got,,,,,,,,

Horn button could need a new contact brush or there's a problem with the horn relay(front passengers side of doghouse) or the horn itself is bad. For the gauges you may have a problem with voltage regulator or a gounding problem at the instrument cluster, since both gauges are not working. You can test that by pulling the wire off of either the temp sender on the engine or the gas sender at the tank and grounding it for a second while someone watches the gauge, should peg the gauge. If you do this with both senders and the gauge responds the problem is with the sender(s).

The problem with old wiring is usually dirty or corroded connections, I agree with the bad ground at the dash possibility. Rusty ground spots will create problems.
Sometimes you have to take each end of a wire off and clean and check connections.
The fuse box itself might be the problem where the wire go in to it.
I have had good luck using a good electronic spray cleaner available at Radio shack, Fry's and some parts stores, spraying the connections will help with cleaning the metal allowing it to make contact and it's quick and easy.
Sometimes I will add new ground wires to things that don't work just to make sure I have a good ground to start.(for instance adding a ground wire to the back side of a tail light bucket and directly to the body)
If I have a good ground I need power to the other side.

Thanks fellas! Can anyone recommend a wiring harness?

Nobody makes a wiring kit for our Econolines. Search wiring harness on this site and see how we have bought various kits and have made them work.

good to know, thank you!

Looks like there is a ton of universal kits out there that will work. Most of them under $200. Not too shabby.