by oldhornjunkie Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:18 pm
I should service the rear first...
Before Rust Converter and before I cleaned it. That crap on the pumpkin cover is under coating. Not Grease.. Well its not all grease.. and the rear is very full. The 10 bolt is a little skinnier tubes but I can get the larger U-Bolts from the Trailer parts place I know.
This was Wet with Rust Converter. I did this while I had the tank out to seal it. and replace the sending unit.
Doing Shocks while the gas tank is out makes it go REALLY Fast. LOL
I got a gallon of eastwood Rust converter for $50 bucks at their store. It had dirt and paint on the bottle so it was half price. I didn't care about the appearance of the bottle...
Funny thing is all my Rotted areas are where they undercoated. Where it was left bare it was fine. Since this product is a chemical change to the metal not a paint it doesn't let wat get under it. They use this stuff on off shore oil rigs. Its good for 5 years on a oil rig exposed to Salt water and Hurricanes. I shot 2/3rds of the bottom of my van in about a half hour with the cheapie $10 Horrible Freight gravity feed gun. I'm just trying to slow what already started. I need to pull off the bottom valance panel and do the rest.
But the Sway bar in the front after replacing the bushings and making end links. Drilling out the front sway bar bushing bolts and re-tapping the holes was a real treat. I kind of expected that. Those bushing and end link make a BIG BIG improvement for front end stability.
I'll see if I can get one off the Firechicken at the self serve yard. Once the car is in the air I should be able to yank it off in maybe 30-40 minutes with battery tools.
