Door Alignment

Anyone have any advice on adjusting the door gaps on my 68 A108? I've played with two of them and made them align better to the body lines and the adjustment seems limited to in-out and up-down.

I am guessing that there is no provision to adjust them forward-aft, BUT maybe I am overlooking something that is right in front of me.

The door gap on the front doors is about 2+ times wide at the back than the front. I am not anal enough to cut/fill/well to make it just so, but on the other hand I don't want to hear a wind whistle is the weatherstripping doesn't keep it sealed (which it barely does).

Thanks

either go to a body shop supplier  or e-bay,
you can move a door either closer to the hinge or closer to the door strike by using shims ,  shim the back of the hinge closest to the dash to make it tighter to the front, or shim closest to the pivot and move the door closer to the strike. (1st) hang the door leave the bolts a little lose, then try to move the door to where you would like it . And watch the way the door moves Then try using the shim, to move the door to the position needed. hope this helps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/144-pc-Auto-Body-Fender-Alignment-Shim-Universal-Assortment-/221336320179?hash=item3388ac38b3&item=221336320179&vxp=mtr

Thanks! I totally forgot about shimming. It looks like it might close the gap enough. That is less drastic than the alternative I thought of: bending one side of the hinge just a touch with my press.

Right now I am waiting on new hinge pins (going to do all of them) to get rid of the slop.

Another way to do this is with a bit of force.
This does NOT apply to survivor or nicely painted vans.
Hopefully if you have fresh paint, this was done BEFORE final prep and paint.
This will crack the factory putty around the hinge if it isn't already cracked/missing.

Get the doors as close as possible to the correct up/down and in/out positions.
Don't forget that the in/out fit at the hinge edge is adjusted by the hinge bolts. The center fit (door-to-door) is adjusted by the latch depth and striker adjustment.
If they are still not centered in the openings, get a 2 foot long section of 2X4 (cheap, soft pine).

If the door gap at the hinge is too tight, open the door and place the end of the 2X4 in the jamb even with the hinge. close the door until the door touches the board. Press the door closed a bit more, then remove the board and check the gap. Try working a small bit at a time and even out changes at both hinges.

If the door gap at the hinge is too wide, you have to open the door slightly and lean into it in the direction of the hinge. This take more muscle than the other way. you can even place the 2X4 flat against the face of the inner door opposite the hinge and using a good-sized hammer, smack the door toward the hinge. The 2X4 spreads the force, causing very little or no damage.

These cause the point where the hinge is riveted to the door and bolted to the body to move, changing the gap. The hinge is a LOT thicker and stronger than the sheetmetal it bolts to. You could try to finesse the hinge itself, but once to see how little force is really needed to change this, you get the idea that even if you were able to change the hinge and end up with a perfect fit, it doesn't take much to move the sheetmetal and throw it off again.