Seal the metal floor before laying the hardwood?

I used rust stop in my 73. Was really thick and dried really fast. Good stuff.

I'm curious to hear what people have to say about this because I was also thinking I'd like to put a floor down but didn't want to put tons of screws through the floor. The bracket on the side beams idea sounds like it could work...

JMO ....Spray on Bed Liner will hold up the Best it holds up Great in the beds of Work Trucks and is as hard as cement and will seal the floor and help with the Heat also and the wood should not move on its textured surface.... Thats what is on my floor..!!!...  ...

I have that aerosol bedliner stuff on my wheel wells inside ,, it's pretty tough. A couple coats of that would probably do it. Seems thin but it's pretty hard.

Digz wrote:I have that aerosol bedliner stuff on my wheel wells inside ,, it's pretty tough. A couple coats of that would probably do it. Seems thin but it's pretty hard.

              Joe mine was done with a Spray Gun and it is about 1/16 inch thick and makes a Big difference with Road Noise also... just make sure all the metal work is done first because once it drys its there to stay....

Thanks for all the suggestions..

I think since I don't have a sprayer I will settle with a case or two of spray-on bed-liner. Maybe just lay it on thick or protection and road noise.

I'll be sure to post some pics. as it comes along.

I have heard good things about this product. Nice to have color option.

http://www.shop.monstaliner.com/1-Gallon-TINTABLE-Roll-On-Kit-ML55RK1G.htm

http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_comparisons.htm

I used both Dynamat and spray bedliner. Both worked great for sound deadening, Dynamat was a little better for heat around the floor on the passenger side of the motor box.  Lizardskin also works great for sound and heat, it sprays on with an inexpensive spray gun. I have had the best results with hardwood floors by filling in the low spots with a good grade of 1/4" plywood just glued to the floor with PL-400 subfloor adhesive then installing another layer of 1/4" plywood over the entire floor, again glued with PL-400. I found that the "engineered" wood floor with the interlocking tongue and groove instead of the flat tongue and groove worked best. More stable than the MDF back laminated wood flooring and the solid 3/4" flooring, especially here in damp RI. I also glued this directly to the 1/4" plywood. This flooring is only 3/8" thick so the total thickness of the subfloor and finished floor is only 5/8".
The one in the photos is done this way and the bed, walls and cabinets are all that are holding it down along with the PL-400. I custom machined the transition strip at the side doors.
Fred



1/4" spacers fitted to the floor, installed after bedliner was sprayed on.

                                            What a AWESOME Job on that Inteior it looks Great..!!!.. Thats the Look I am going for also..(Hopefully Some Day Soon).. 

wow!!!! looks great

I see you used the bead board on the bottom of the walls and was wondering what the top section of the walls is made of.

Jay 13 wrote:I see you used the bead board on the bottom of the walls and was wondering what the top section of the walls is made of.

The top section is 1/8" luan plywood covered in a very heavy textured wallpaper that looks like plaster. Got it at Lowes.
Fred