by Bruce67Econoline Fri Jan 31, 2014 3:33 pmHere is my daughter and our new 67 Econo wagon 240 with an automatic.
3 posters
My new 67 Econo Falcon Wagon
Bruce67Econoline- Number of posts : 809
Location : Charleston SC
Registration date : 2014-01-25
dix- Moderator 1st Class
- Number of posts : 8769
Location : pittsburgh pa
Age : 67
Registration date : 2008-05-29
New truck looks real nice and the Daughter is all smiles as she looks for those keys..
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still vannin since 1974
Bruce67Econoline- Number of posts : 809
Location : Charleston SC
Registration date : 2014-01-25
Truck runs well, but the drip rails are a mess. Two owners ago did all of the work, but the drip rail repairs are failing and rusting. I don't thick they killed all of the underlying rust.
dix- Moderator 1st Class
- Number of posts : 8769
Location : pittsburgh pa
Age : 67
Registration date : 2008-05-29
the ford gang will point you in the right direction, A knowageable bunch of them there
66ThunderVan- Number of posts : 384
Location : Portsmouth, Va.
Registration date : 2012-01-08
If you don't remove ALL of the old seam sealer and media blast ALL of the rust out, prep and reseal you WILL get rust through later. I've seen a lot of that. The only thing you can do, now is try to use a rust neutralizer of some form and spot treat the bad areas. But be careful not to get any on the good paint.
Bruce67Econoline- Number of posts : 809
Location : Charleston SC
Registration date : 2014-01-25
I have repair patches coming. Oh I'm going to remove all of the old seam sealer for sure.
66ThunderVan- Number of posts : 384
Location : Portsmouth, Va.
Registration date : 2012-01-08
Your paint looks pretty good. I hope you don't have to screw it up repairing the rust. If you do mess it up you could, just, repaint the white area and save some $$$.
I usually remove seam sealer before primer and paint by heating the bottom of the drip rail with a propane torch using just enough heat to loosen the sealer, prying it up with a screwdriver and pulling it out in a string. If you use this method be careful to keep the heat as low as needed or you can warp your metal.
I usually remove seam sealer before primer and paint by heating the bottom of the drip rail with a propane torch using just enough heat to loosen the sealer, prying it up with a screwdriver and pulling it out in a string. If you use this method be careful to keep the heat as low as needed or you can warp your metal.
Bruce67Econoline- Number of posts : 809
Location : Charleston SC
Registration date : 2014-01-25
Thank you great idea, might try a heat gun on low, and hope I don't warp the metal. Paint is great but the shop t.wo owners back did some bondo rust repair on the back right corner. Time to order a new corner. They put a new nose, gotta check that out as well
66ThunderVan- Number of posts : 384
Location : Portsmouth, Va.
Registration date : 2012-01-08
Heat on the drip rail is not a problem. It is 3 layers. Keep as much heat as possible on the outer part of the rail. The roof and side panels will warp if they get too hot. I doubt a heat gun will work well as it will spread the heat over a larger area. I use the torch, heating from below, working a 3 or 4 inch length, back and forth and pulling up on the sealer. As you apply heat the sealer will become surprisingly soft and usually will stay in one piece.
