fuel boiling out of carb into intake problem!

Ok, so I have a 67 second gen w/ 230. the original carb boiled fuel out of the carb down the intake about 60sec. after parking, so I made a spacer out of wood, thinking maybe the heat transfer from the intake was too much. Also checked exhaust intake heat flapper, and it is working properly. Thought maybe the fuel pump was over-pressurizing, so I bought an elec. fuel pump....nothing changed. So I thought, maybe the float seat. rebuilt carb, new float seat, still boils over. So then I bought a holley economiser carb for it New in the box. (NOS). Still have the same problem. It is 36* outside, and it still boils over! Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what is the solution?

Engine runs normal temp 180-190 but it boils after sitting. I thought the wood spacer would be the fix, but I'm gonna try an alum plate under the carb

Donivan! You're saying route your fuel line around the back of the valve cover (L6) rather than the front?

Think i'm gonna try clothes pins!

This is the only thing that works,,,,,,,

it stays on for a few mins after shutdown?

awesome idea, I think I have a fan from a geo metro I had a while back

after uve done all the above?? put some wooden clothes pins on the metal fuel line going to carb-IM =NOT KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

GM made a heat sheild for 6s that fits between the carb and the manifolds. So hard to get and too pricey when they do show. And, sorry I don't know the part number.

However, my fix--a standard fix, as these engines run hot was just to install a thermostatically run electric fan up front of the radiator and leave the fan on the water pump. Gets great cooling even in slow traffic AND the fan comes on and off for a little while after shut down and cools the parts and ventilates the doghouse. Since, they two fans are techincally redundant, neither one has to be oversized or super duper.

Good luck yet yours is pretty much the same as all of ours. Especially if one lives down South.

Hate to suggest this - a metal fuel line -usually steel or copper =will soak up the heat !!!!!!!!!!! You can run some pipe insulation over them also - yet i use rubber lines and keep them away from the things that burn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Remember also =if you run any fuel filters?? put them in the lines closest to the fuel pump- never on top of an engine -best to use the metal canister types -never =PLASTIC!!!!!!!!!!  

Ditto that. Keeping rubber fuel lines away from heat and steel fuel filter low or on the cool side is way important. Those cheapo, plastice fuel filters on top have been the death nell of many a fine old vehicle--especially air cooled VWs. The two things, other than stupid drivers, that seem to do us in is wet carpeting and plastic fuel filters.

so what is the coolest part of the doghouse? back cooler than front?  passenger cooler than driver?

Here is my set up with the metal line over the top with Taylor fuel line insulation, ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-2503/overview/ )seems to help plus, taking a tip from Donivan, when I bring into garage I use a small floor fan I place under the air louvers until it cools down....all the original engine pics I have seen show a metal line over the top as being the original way the factory did it.  No rubber lines around the front were used.  Metal line is easy to get, any auto store sells 5/16" brake tubing and you bend it with a cheap tubing bender.  They come with pre-flared ends or you can flare it yourself, easy to do...

Also note, metal filter away from engine but between fuel pump and carb, this is also important, do not put the filter before the pump with a carbed engine, that only works for FI.