gas gauge wireing

Checked cvr with panel in dash . Will check more tomorrow.

Check continuity between the tank or sender housing and the frame as well. Those rubber bit's could be isolating the tank.

I think he might of put a ground wire from the frame to the base of the sending unit,,,,,

a sending unit should have  2 wires to it,,,,,,I surely dont like my tank touching the frame or straps so I put strips of tar paper to insulate it,,,,,,but some senders have a ground wire connected to the base or you can add one with a sheet metal screw,  solder it on or just clamp it to the filler tube to provide a ground signal to the sender,,,,,,a sender wont work unless it gets a ground signal,,,,,

Unhooked gauge panel and grounded to dash with jumper wire. 12 volts going in to cvr 5 volts out. Test light to cvr  is bright going in, dim coming out, steady not pulsing. Dim going into and out of gas gauge. 5v in 5 volts out. Tried 2 new batteries jumped across gauge , nothing.Removed sending unit and moved float up and down with every thing back together , no movement. Tried holding it against tank and frame while I moved it ,still nothing. Scraped paint off between tank and straps for better ground ? no movement. Hooked ground wire from tank to frame, no difference. There in nothing but the gas gauge in the panel hooked up to power now , New cvr , sending unit, and ran new wire from sending unit to gauge. That should make 1 complete circuit for just the gas gauge ? The only time the gauge moves is when grounded it goes to full. Only 1 wire on sending unit ,the one going to the  gauge. About ready to leave it not working. Just clamped temporary ground wire to sending unit body then to frame, 5 gallons gas ,still no reading.

so if you leave the wire off that goes to the sending unit and turn the key on, it should go to EMPTY,,,,,if you just touch that wire to ground quickly, it should go up to FULL,,,,,,,now maybe someone put a newer 12 volt gauge in the van,,,,,,maybe the gauge is bad,,,,,,,as for the blink tests,,,,,if a bulb is too big or a meter is not too sensitive, it wont blink or move too fast because it cant keep up with the fluctuations of the current limiter, so you still might be good there,,,,you could just add a aftermarket gas gauge if you had to,,,,,,,,

Its on empty all the time ,key on or off ,wire pulled or not. It does go to full when grounded. It looks like the original gauge compared to the temp. gauge. Im giving up for now ,looking for a cheap gauge. The only one I found so far is 106.00 bucks, not going to spend that unless I was SURE it would fix the problem. Thanks for all the help and advise.

,,,so nothing happens when you take the wires off the gas gauge and connect 3 volts of battery between the posts on the gauge,,,,,it should move the needle to FULL,,,,,,,,

Nope, dose not move at all with wires removed and 3 volts across the posts. The only way it moves to full is to have all wires hooked up ,unplug sender by tank and ground to frame.

so I guess if you replaced the old current regulator, it shorted out and wrecked the gauge,,,,,,,

Didnt read the whole thread and gotta run but thought I would add mine as its been a long time since we talked about this last time,,, LOL...
  Gauges are supplied by a pulsating voltage from a voltage regulator. It has spade terminals on it and they are opposite kinds on each end so that you can only install it one way!!  Gas gauge is grounded THROUGH the sending unit as it is a variable grounding unit. The gas tank used for the ground and then grounded to the body through the upper support when it touches. Common for bad ground and most have been talking for year about simply running a better ground wire from the sending unit itself to the frame for a ground.
 Typically there is a BLACK pig tailed wire that connects to the voltage regulator and supplies the fuel and the temp gauge, more if you also have the four gauge unit. Regardless, the spade connectors only going on one way so as to not make a mistake. The two pigtails supplying the two gauges at a reduced voltage. To test the gauge I simply remove the sending unit side and ground that side momentarily to see if it moves to full. CAUTION:  DO NOT KEEP IT THERE or burn the gauge up,, all you want to do is see if it moves. If it moves it means that the circuit to the gauge as well as the gauge are more than likely okay>???  and the problem is from the gauge to the sending unit.... remembering that the sending unit is actually a variable ground and completes the circuit. If the gauge does not move then it means either a bad supply to it or a bad gauge or all of it is bad,, LOL... "  
  Also a picture of the new replacement idiot light and turn signal lenses,,,,
OLDSKOOL

Well Ill be damned , my gas gauge does work, kinda. I guess since the ohms are wrong (or I measured them wrong) 3 gallons wasnt enough to move the gauge. I put 6 more gallons in it to day so it has 8 or 9 gallons now, and the gauge went to almost half full. Guess the good news is I wont run out of gas if the gauge reads empty with 3 or 4 gallons left. Again ,thanks for all the help guys.