Getting Ready to Purchase My First Van (Dodge A-100 Conversion)

Hello Community!
I am new here, never been on the site, but looks awesome!
(excuse my ignorance if such is displayed)

So, I went to go check out a 1966 Dodge A-100 Camper Conversion Bus/Van today that was posted on craigslist. The current owner who saved it from scrap, apparently, has the title in hand, and is asking $650. The brakes are not seized, the engine is not seized, all the windows are crack-less, there is very minimal rust, the engine seems to be complete, there is hardly any cosmetic damage and the converted camper top seems to be in really good shape, as well as the paint, which looks original! I am ready to jump into this head first, but my wise older brother who has owned, now, 3 VW busses thinks I need to wait and make sure it's the right decision, though he agrees it looks like a great van.

Some other information is that the van is a automatic transmission, and was converted by a company called "Family-Wagon", it was registered in 2005, but is not currently registered, i am going to run it through the DMV and make sure there are no back-fees. The back two tires are flat, we jumped the battery and got one headlight to turn on, but there is no key for it and I would have felt strange asking the owner if I could pick the ignition or hot-wire it. I am not positive about which engine it has in it, but I was told it is probably the 318? Let me know if you know!

I am wondering if you guys have information or opinions for me? Here are images:









I will upload a video i took to youtube soon, so stay posted!
Thanks for any help/ comments!


[EDIT]
Here is a couple more photos I've added, including the VIN plate, if anyone could tell me more info using it that'd be awesome?!


[EDIT]
Here are more images of the van that were posted on the CL add:

WELCOME TO VV, THIS WILL MAKE A GREAT CAMPER, GOOD LUCK WE IT, IF YOU BUY IT KEEP THE PICTURES COMMING OF THE PROGRESS,

I think $650 is a good price, solid body sold it for me

Welcome to VV!!!

if it's a 1966 engine then i'd say it's a 273, still a lot of 318 parts will bolt on. family camper was a camper van by dodge. raised roof, sink cabinets ect. but the automatic would not have been installed by the family camper. there is a vin plate . open the driver's door on the wheel well should have the info. 273 engine ?? 727 trans. ?? axles ?? rear gears ?? But the body looks very good. and the price is good but like any thing thats been sitting since 2005, there will be some issues to deal with, tune up, bad gas. carb issues, brakes and so on if you can do those things then you found a good deal. welcome to vintage vans...

Welcome, well worth the effort to put back on the road.

Welcome cryingclown! Body appears to be solid and with the original paint, what you see is what you get so no primer or paint hiding things. As long as the roof is in good condition and the drip rails aren't rotted, looks to be a pretty good deal! Like Dix said, anything that's been sitting that long will need some attention so if you're up for that, go for it.

dix wrote:if it's a 1966 engine then i'd say it's a 273, still a lot of 318 parts will bolt on. family camper was a camper van by dodge. raised roof, sink cabinets ect. but the automatic would not have been installed  by the family camper. there is a vin plate . open the driver's door on the wheel well should have the info. 273 engine ?? 727 trans. ?? axles ?? rear gears ?? But the body looks very good. and the price is good but like any thing thats been sitting since 2005, there will be some  issues to deal with, tune up, bad gas. carb issues, brakes and so on if you can do those things then you found a good deal. welcome to vintage vans...

Hey everyone thanks for the welcomes and opinions!

I took a picture of the VIN plate, but wasn't sure if it is it safe to post it online? Let me know and I can! I only figured the year, model and make with what I decoded on the VIN so far.

[EDIT]
I've posted the vin plate, let me know if that's a bad idea? Thanks!~

Before you do anything, research how much the back fees and fines are on the registration. Eight years could add up. Did the owner not use the non-op fee option? It used to be after a few years it would "drop off," but I hear that's a thing of the past.

MGSanJose wrote:Before you do anything, research how much the back fees and fines are on the registration. Eight years could add up. Did the owner not use the non-op fee option? It used to be after a few years it would "drop off," but I hear that's a thing of the past.

Yeah as posted, I'm definitely going to check on the back-fees for it before I make a purchase. I read somewhere to call early in the morning so they can get you information quickly, so I'll be calling tomorrow. LOL

Welcome!
I think it's well worth the price. That said, a few things jump out at me.
First, I think that it's not a '66. Side reflectors and back-up lights are '68 possibly or '69 for sure.
Also the crash pad and the door pulls are '67 or later.
Make sure you get the info from the data plate mentioned earlier and post it here.
Also make sure the title # matches the plate #.
67-up will be a 318. A good solid dependable engine, IF it's in decent shape.

Ignition switch
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US12L Lock Cylinder
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US50  Ignition Switch
You should be able to buy both for under 30 bucks.
Under 16 if you just get the switch and use a screwdriver.


I would want to hear it run at least for a few minutes. This is a make or break situation if you can't afford to get a replacement engine and install it. Even better if you can run it long enough to get up to operating temp and make sure the trans move it back and forth.
If he's afraid of hot wiring, bring along the new switch and cylinder and just transfer the wire connector.
The switch can be removed by unscrewing the bezel. Or you can just pull off the connector and connect it to the new switch under the dash. You should be able to return them for credit if you decide against the van, or use them in good health if you buy.

If it's been sitting since 2005, DON'T run it off the junk in the gas tank!!!
Bring along a fire extinguisher, 5 gallons of gas and a hose. Dip the hose into the jug and connect the other end onto the fuel pump at the right front bottom of the engine, replacing the hose from the frame. The extinguisher is for safety. Bring a can of quick start too, and a good battery if you have one handy.
I'd also ask if you can check the seam between the top and the body along with the top windows using a hose. I wouldn't walk away if it leaks, but it's a good bargaining point.


Also, if you plan on doing up the interior your own way (see gothboy), you have a blank slate. If you plan on a perfect restoration, pass on this and get one with all the interior stuff.

You will go over 1500 when all is said and done.
4 tires + mount and balance = 400-600
Brakes=at least a hundred in parts + labor
clean out gas tank and repair = ~200 bucks on average

gallon of coolant + distilled water 20 bucks
Ignition lock and cylinder 30 bucks
air filter and fuel filter = 20 bucks
A set of plugs, points, condenser = another 50 bucks

If you have a good quick change Lube, Oil & Filter shop nearby with a pit, not a hoist, go for that.
Otherwise
5 quarts of oil + filter 20 bucks
Some ATF and gear lube for the diff if needed.
A grease gun to hit all the lube points.
If you take it to a shop, ask to be able to look at the underside with a tech. Ask questions. Bring a 6 pack of a popular brew to thank the tech. Do not mention this to the counter person/manager. Stash the beer in the van, the tech will know how to get it out quietly. Believe me, it will pay for itself.

That's what I see right now, if the belts, hoses, heater core, radiator and charging system all are okay for now.

Add in a bunch of fiddling about and a couple bulbs to get all the lights working.

Then comes the fun stuff.

RodStRace wrote:Welcome!
I think it's well worth the price. That said, a few things jump out at me.
First, I think that it's not a '66. Side reflectors and back-up lights are '68 possibly or '69 for sure.
Also the crash pad and the door pulls are '67 or later.
Make sure you get the info from the data plate mentioned earlier and post it here.
Also make sure the title # matches the plate #.
67-up will be a 318. A good solid dependable engine, IF it's in decent shape.

Ignition switch
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US12L Lock Cylinder
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US50  Ignition Switch
You should be able to buy both for under 30 bucks.
Under 16 if you just get the switch and use a screwdriver.


I would want to hear it run at least for a few minutes. This is a make or break situation if you can't afford to get a replacement engine and install it. Even better if you can run it long enough to get up to operating temp and make sure the trans move it back and forth.
If he's afraid of hot wiring, bring along the new switch and cylinder and just transfer the wire connector.
The switch can be removed by unscrewing the bezel. Or you can just pull off the connector and connect it to the new switch under the dash. You should be able to return them for credit if you decide against the van, or use them in good health if you buy.

If it's been sitting since 2005, DON'T run it off the junk in the gas tank!!!
Bring along a fire extinguisher, 5 gallons of gas and a hose. Dip the hose into the jug and connect the other end onto the fuel pump at the right front bottom of the engine, replacing the hose from the frame. The extinguisher is for safety. Bring a can of quick start too, and a good battery if you have one handy.
I'd also ask if you can check the seam between the top and the body along with the top windows using a hose. I wouldn't walk away if it leaks, but it's a good bargaining point.


Also, if you plan on doing up the interior your own way (see gothboy), you have a blank slate. If you plan on a perfect restoration, pass on this and get one with all the interior stuff.

You will go over 1500 when all is said and done.
4 tires + mount and balance = 400-600
Brakes=at least a hundred in parts + labor
clean out gas tank and repair = ~200 bucks on average

gallon of coolant + distilled water 20 bucks
Ignition lock and cylinder 30 bucks
air filter and fuel filter = 20 bucks
A set of plugs, points, condenser = another 50 bucks

If you have a good quick change Lube, Oil & Filter shop nearby with a pit, not a hoist, go for that.
Otherwise
5 quarts of oil + filter 20 bucks
Some ATF and gear lube for the diff if needed.
A grease gun to hit all the lube points.
If you take it to a shop, ask to be able to look at the underside with a tech. Ask questions. Bring a 6 pack of a popular brew to thank the tech. Do not mention this to the counter person/manager. Stash the beer in the van, the tech will know how to get it out quietly. Believe me, it will pay for itself.

That's what I see right now, if the belts, hoses, heater core, radiator and charging system all are okay for now.

Add in a bunch of fiddling about and a couple bulbs to get all the lights working.

Then comes the fun stuff.

Great information, thanks for taking the time to respond. I will definitely look over this information in detail with my brother, who has done this before so he can explain some stuff to me in detail. By reading this post though have decided that even if he's only asking $650. I am going to require that he let me have a good couple hours to check these specified things out and try to pick the ignition after taking that "gunk" out of there.

Though I agree, by the time this thing is where my dreams want it, the money put into it will be much higher than $1500, and I should have specified that I wasn't including any interior anything in my budget, but I will point out that the total of the things you listed added to the cost of the van was total $1550, so not far off, just for getting it running and driving smoothly.

Again, thanks for the great info, and check out the VIN I posted in the OP maybe?
Emilio

That's ONLY the basics!
No money for anything else, and believe me, there WILL be something else.

Don't forget a service manual!!! $45 with shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Dodge-A100-A108-Pickup-Truck-Van-Dealer-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-Book-/360741834967?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item53fde390d7&vxp=mtr#ht_110wt_917


BTW, check for steering slop. It is easy on these, just dangle a foot down and move the wheel side to side until the tire starts to move. You want less than 2" steering wheel movement before the tire starts to move. More than 5" and it's going to need rebuild/replacement, and there is no easy answer to this!
Other stuff will be spring bushings, shocks, driveshaft, wiper blades, steering parts, and the other thing besides rust on these, wiring!

cryingclown wrote:[EDIT]
Here is a couple more photos I've added, including the VIN plate, if anyone could tell me more info using it that'd be awesome?!

19870066695
19=A-100 Van
8=8 cylinders
7=Built at Missouri Truck Plant, St. Louis, Missouri.
0066695 indocates a 1968 model year (1969 started with 020000).

The following are educated guesses

5400 is GVWR.
A100 is model
3600 is ?
35 amp alt?
CHRY engine make?
RA36 is ?
000318 is engine size
2500 is ?
3AUTO is transmission speed and type
CHRY is trans make?
A727 is trans type
17704000?
1100 is front ?
1410 is rear ?
108 is ?

RodStRace wrote:That's ONLY the basics!
No money for anything else, and believe me, there WILL be something else.

Don't forget a service manual!!! $45 with shipping.



BTW, check for steering slop. It is easy on these, just dangle a foot down and move the wheel side to side until the tire starts to move. You want less than 2" steering wheel movement before the tire starts to move. More than 5" and it's going to need rebuild/replacement, and there is no easy answer to this!
Other stuff will be spring bushings, shocks, driveshaft, wiper blades, steering parts, and the other thing besides rust on these, wiring!

cryingclown wrote:[EDIT]
Here is a couple more photos I've added, including the VIN plate, if anyone could tell me more info using it that'd be awesome?!

19870066695
19=A-100 Van
8=8 cylinders
7=Built at Missouri Truck Plant, St. Louis, Missouri.
0066695 indocates a 1968 model year (1969 started with 020000).

The following are educated guesses

5400 is GVWR.
A100 is model
3600 is ?
35 amp alt?
CHRY engine make?
RA36 is ?
000318 is engine size
2500 is ?
3AUTO is transmission speed and type
CHRY is trans make?
A727 is trans type
17704000?
1100 is front ?
1410 is rear ?
108 is ?

Oh wow,  1968 huh? Darn, does that make this van any less desirable as apposed to an earlier year? Do you know how I could check to see exactly which engine I have in this?
Thanks

318  engine, this old girl is very desirable to most old van lovers

Good deal and seems like a diamond in the rough. Personally me and the wife want to restore a camper but they are hard to find.

As for how to check the engine size, because who knows all it's history and such...

Dodge stamped the size at the front of the block on the driver's side where the block was surfaced, just below the head.
This is always coated with paint and grease, and is a chore to get cleaned up and legible.


The easier way is to check the cast in numbers on the side of the block (driver side IIRC)
This one is a 318 you can see where the size is in the numbers, although it kind of looks like 918.



The one in the van IS a small block so it's going to be a 273, 318, 340 or 360.
The data plate tells us it had a 318 originally, any of the others will be swaps.

AWESOME!!!!! As Rod said, there are MANY things that can and hopefully will NOT go wrong when doing up an old vehicle of ANY kind. If you do get it, PLEASE MAKE SURE that after checking out the engine, one of your FIRST purchases will probably be a waterpump. If its been sitting a while, you NEED to check the cooling system. I did not check it early enough on mine and it cost me my engine. Luckily Im pretty handy so it wasnt a HUGE ordeal, but still... Not fun anyway. I like doing engines when I want not when I need to lol.

I have the exact van as you. A gutted Family Wagon with the tall top. Contact me, I may be able to help! Have a great day, and PLEASE DO enjoy that new toy!

dont be surprised if the gas tank has isues also, the good thing is on this sight you can find remides for any problem, besure your prepared to spend lots of money ,,    

VIN Plate in order, left to right, top to bottom,
SERIAL NO. S.O NO.   MAX. G.V.W. LBS  VEH. MODEL
REAR AXLE CAP.  REAR AXLE  MAKE  MODEL  ENGINE
FRONT AXLE CAP.  TRANS.  MAKE  MODEL
CERT. NET. HP. AT R.P.M.   FRONT SPRING CAP.  REAR SPRING CAP.  W.B.   AUX. TRANS.

I don't know how to add a photo quote for the VIN photo.
BTW, what is an S.O. number?

S.O. number was a Sales Order and was used to keep track of production BEFORE the vehicle was built. They were used internally in place of the serial number until the serial number was assigned.
There are other complications and differences,  so that's a very basic description.

If you and gothboy can hook up and have him help you, I'd try to take advantage of the offer! He's familiar with these and mechanics in general. Good to have along! Just try not to let him stick a SBC in it!

I actually supplied the links for another new guy, here's the info on awakening a slumbering van!
Check out the "This Is How It's Done" section.
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t23498-how-to-start-an-engine-that-s-been-sitting-the-basics
and
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t31974-van-doesn-t-start-checklist
for more info.

Thanks Rod for the clarification!
(Former Zonie now in Cali)

So I called the DMV, and found out the van IS on non-op! So no back fees, and registration and sales tax shouldn't be too bad since it's so cheap. My question, does it being registered on non-op does that make it more likely this thing is, actually non operational? I guess I'll find out soon..

I bought a scooter, found out it requires full motorcycle license (which I don't have). So I wasn't going to pay for a plate, registration and insurance on a bike I can't legally ride, so I went for the non-op. Scooter works fine, just in storage. Best to ask the seller's reason for non-op, is it because the van died, or some other reason?

CC, I understand your curiousity, but the owner did a GOOD thing moving it to non-op. It saves him and you from back fees. So tread lightly questioning that. Everything I own is currently non-op except the truck, since I had to cut back on money going out (insurance). 5 vehicles got me a healthy discount, but it was still flowing the wrong direction!  

MG, aside from a healthy job market and more culture, you couldn't PAY me to move back to CA!  
Sure hope you enjoy it.