Advice to get my van running smooth again?

Hey guys. So I've been working on getting my '65(170) running smooth again and just cant seem to figure it out. While driving to work on Monday it backfired once and then started running real rough(It would seem to lose power and then jump right after). Since then I've replaced the plugs and wires, installed new points, a rotor and condenser and I've even checked the timing. I don't consider myself a mechanic at all but I've usually always been able to figure it out and I just cant seem to fix it this time. Anybody got any tips or advice to get me headed in the right direction? Thanks in advance.

I do have the Loadomatic and as far as the carb cleaner im going to go try that now. My carburetor is rebuilt and I've had it in for two months now without a problem.

Back firing can:
Be a destructive force causing vacuum diaphragms (dist, power valve, choke pull-offs) to rupture or vacuum lines to blow off, causing the component to stop working and a vacuum leak.

Be a symptom of a timing chain/gear jumping, causing the cam timing to be off, causing misfires and lack of power.

Check each...

Rod I was thinks the same thing regarding the timing chain. I'm thinking and i may be completey wrong but what if you losen the dist, a little make a road test turning the dist, till it runs better and then recheck the timing if the timing is way out would that help to point towards the chain. or am i in left field ???

First things first,,, how were the points set? with a dwell meter insuring that they ARE correct or with a feeler gauge and still GUESSING??
How many miles on the motor, compression check?? check TDC with the dizzy to check the chain.
vic

dist cap, rotor, new points, & condenser!! Get all set WITH a Dwell meter too. No feeler gague, match book cover or eyeballing that . Wires & sparkplugs also is not done in a while too!. The symptoms you are indicating art typical of bad points, condensation in dist cap or carbon tracking in cap!! Also typical of cracked or broken carbon in top of cap where rotor spring fits to, Check all-replace all & then you wont be guessing at all!

Carb Cleaner did nothing. I set the points with a feeler gauge. I wanted to use a dwell meter but the three auto part stores in my town did not carry one. I've had this feeling that I didn't do the points right so im going to just order one. Odometer reads 26000 but I don't know how accurate that is. I believe at 99999 it starts over correct? So it would be 126,000 right? Haven't done a compression check but I will tomorrow. Sorry ya'll..Im learning, slowly but surely.

we are all still learnig!!- you are going at it very correctly too.Most all of us have been thru the -i think ill try this only to save some money before!! Have we all learned - do it correctly the 1st time & then we have no more problems!! Going at it just fine there Lance!!

WELL...Turns out it was the timing chain. Thing is so loose it turned chewed up my oil slinger. Anybody know where to get a new one? I checked all the local auto part stores, the ford dealership and couldn't find anything on mac's. Are they completely necessary? Thanks for all the help.

slinger -yes must have that lubes the chain!!

I've run with and without on BB mopars, so it could be removed provided you use a good quality modern seal.
However, I would try to get one. Last time I had to find one for a Ford, I went to a local Mustang place. They had a bunch of core engines around for parts and I was able to get a good used slinger cheap.
Just try to find that business that has a bunch of engines and parts. I found that the dealerships are... useless for almost anything older than 10 years.

I's suggest that you check the valves for any that might have been bent too. Pull the valve cover and check the height. Fords are picky about installed height and they should all be pretty close to each other when closed. Don't rotate to check until the new chain is on...