Turn Signals, Rusted Bolts, & minimally functioning brakes

Here's a random assortment of stuff. The Falcon is drivable (we'll see for how long)! Thanks Vic et. al. Now my next issues making it street legal.

A) My turn signals don't work This was the original problem i was trying to fix before my clutch equalizing pivot joint went out. The tail light work when I turn the headlights on. When I try to turn the turn signal on... nothing happens not even on the dash board (i'm assuming the arrows blink when activated).


The bulb isn't burnt out.


This yellow wire is snipped... is that a possible problem?


I don't know where these go, is/if its necessary to follow them?


B) Brakes... suck! I'd be better off cutting a hole in the floorboard of the Falcon & use my feet like Fred Flintstone. If its parked on the slightest of hills, the e-brake won't hold it back... I have to plan my stops at least 50m in advance LOL!!! My guardian angel has been working overtime anytime i drive the Falcon. With out doing the full on brake conversion.... what the best way to remedy the situation? I've never worked on drums before, but i guess its time



C) So I was taking a break from getting my @$$ kicked from any Falcon related side-project i was pursuing so I was like ok..."screw this, surely you can put on the front bumper" Fail again! The frigg'n thing is so rusted out that after a couple turns the rounded bolt head is spinning instead of the nut. My variable speed grinder grew some legs & walked away a couple weeks after I moved in
Any tricks or tips?




Thanks guys! You rock!

$20 bucks buy a nut cracker and replace every bolt that you remove...I replace every thing with stainless

do the brake lights work? i have a wiring diagram somewhere for my 67. im not sure if it would be the same though.

as for the brakes. maybe they are just out of adjustment.

as for the bumper.....harbor freight, 4 1/2 inch hi-speed grinder $9.99* it might be easier to carefully grind the head off of the front of the bumper.



*sale price

are these my flasher wires? Are they suppose to be plugged into to something, or should they just 'dangle'. Is this part of the problem?

If you got one of those spade fuses around,,,like 10 amps,,,,plug those wires into it and see if the turn signals come on,,,,,,the flasher is probably hiding up behind the dash,,,,,,,

Will address one at a time,,,

FIRST OF ALL,, welcome to the world of restoration. IF you thought that you were getting into an older vehicle for free or free of hack jobs, or free from home owners that do not know how to work on a car (LOL,,as in mirror),,, just kidding with you, however you have a lot of schooling to do...its 50 years old, every kid in school has mickey moused some thing,the person before this person was glad to get rid of it to the person who was glad to sell it to you,,,, Whoever did the paint job, painted everything to include the back of the lights. If they were that lazy, you are bound to find more,, sorry.
PICTURE 1 & 2
1st one I saw reading was that someone has hacked into the rear lights to try and hook up a trailer light. That white block with the wire hanging out of it absolutely the WORST thing I think was ever invented. IT spells death to what ever wire you clamp it onto!!!!!!!! It is designed to clamp down on a wire with a pair of pliers and an inner spiked fork to JUST touch the inner wire core on each side, a cheap easy way of taping into a wire. ITS JUNK. Remove it, and reconnect those two wires together.
Next, NO there are two 67 turn signal setups, one a 7 wire and one an 8 wire,and both different in the brake light wiring as it uses a mechanical brake light switch whereas this one uses a single pressure operated switch at the back of the M/C. more........


2nd is the turn assembly itself. I have seen many that someone has taken apart and lost the little sliders inside, and or the unit is broken and or the return cam itself is broken like normal. OR ALL OF IT. The brake lights work through the turn assembly and they CAN make the brake lights not work. ALSO,, HAVE YOU CHECKED THE LIGHT BULBS, DO YOU KNOW HOW TO USE A VOLT METER. The bulbs for the flashers in the instrument cluster go out all the time, you are trying to fix something that some one else did not fix. The bulbs have a single wire to them and snap into the back of the instrument cluster. IF YOU CANNOT access them from under the dash, don't fret. Loosen and remove the speedo cable. You can tell which one as it goes directly into the back of it what large nut. Usually only hand tight. THEN remove the Phillips head screws and lift the instrument cluster out so that you can more easily remove each bulb and check them. ALSO, THERE SHOULD BE a small mount on the top of the on this same side of the cluster that is supposed to hold the flasher.

PICTURE #3 RUSTED BOLT
THAT IS AN OLD COMMON KNOW HOW TRICK,, simply use a 6 point socket and some rust buster and a torch if you have to.

Put some rust buster on the nut and with a SIX POINT SOCKET, try to remove the nut. REMEMBER IT IS A CARRIAGE BOLT (hoping you understand them?) Carriage bolts have a square shank that fits into a matching square hole and if you do not push down on the head of the bolt keeping the two square parts holding each other, it will allow the square part under neath to no longer grab and it will spin really pissing you off. IF you try to cut the bolt off from THE FRONT you will cut into the bumper with the cut off wheel, if it goes that badly, cut them off from the back, not the front. FROM YOU'RE PICTURES, a simple six point socket will work just fine???
If it STILL doesn't want to come off then it would be a good idea to put some more rust buster on it and use a small propane torch to head the NUT ONLY. What you want to do is expand the nut AWAY from the bolt so that you can remove it. FROM YOU'RE PICTURE,, the nut looks fine as you have not ruined YET,,,, lol

It sounds like you have a lot of work to do, and you will be asking a lot of questions, which is good for you as there is a lot of information and helpful people on the site.
Those two spade wires look like the flasher wires. Wiring book says #'s 44 and # 8 one blue and one orange/yellow. I don't remember what year truck this is as the beginning of the thread is I don't remember where,, help us out with the year, again,, please. I know its not a 67 and thats all I remember.
The brakes???????? whew,,, bite the bullet, bring it over and do it right, that is one thing you don't want to mess around with and not get correct. These trucks need some serious help there and it doesnt sound like you can do disc conversion right now.
START with ALL NEW WHEEL CYLINDERS, don't try to mess around with honeing and rebuilding them. They are too cheap and just put new ones in,, consider also new brake lines at the same time, new front wheel seals, clean and pack the bearings with grease, turn the drums, new linings and that will GET YOU STARTED. We still need to adjust them and some times they can be fidgety and pull from one side or the other. King pins can be part of that problem but that is ANOTHER problem you will get into quickly enough,, LOL,, (sorry bro). If you need a new turn signal I have some here, as well as new turn cancellors, and lights with wires if you need them. LOTS OF WORK TO DO,,

vic

I FORGOT,, dratzzz,,, when you pull out of IF you pull the dash cluster outwards to work on it,, remember the screws complete the ground circuit side for the bulbs. The bulbs have a single wire going into them and ground the other side by the prongs. The two center lights for the idiot lights have two wires going into them and turn on when you first turn the key on with out starting it. Those two idiot lights should go off when you start the motor. Also, do the temp gauge and the fuel gauge work, another subject...
GONE FISHING for three days, SO WILL CHECK BACK ON TUES,, GOOD LUCK WITH IT.
vic/SoCal

I was busy for the past 2 weeks... Vic, hope your fishing trip went well... when I go out I tell everyone that "I'm going casting" as I hardly catch fish.

I haven't had a chance to work on the falcon. Anywho... I got a couple hours open this evening & started tinkering with the falcon... I dunno how you guys work under the dash, one has to be a contortionist to work in that. *Ahem, I digress* I noticed the black wire coming out the back of the fuse box is snipped... (its as good of a pic as I could take)

or isn't making its connection... & I have several 2 of these... I'm assuming they're light sockets, w/o the lights btw, the red & green wire thing isn't making its connection either? WTF? I


My temp gauge works, my fuel gauge doesn't (nor do the lights on the instrument panel) on a side note... does the throwout bearing on a 62 Falcon have to be "pressed in"? I went on ahead & ordered one (was only 30ish from NAPA), if i dont need it i can just return it.

Little tired right now to dig through the wiring charts, but really should not have to if you do it right. Thnx, fishing and the company sucked,, oh well going Tuna fishing for three days in September and cant wait...
Anyways,,, disconnect the speedo, and take out all the instrument panel screws. The unit should just fold down in front of you upside down. If not, its simply the wiring tied together or on the mount,, whatever it takes to loosen it up and fold it down at you.
Make a good ground wire or clip from the panel itself to a good ground on the truck. THEN you can easily figure them out. Especially as you ARE going to make them all work,,LOL?>>>>>>>>>>>>
Plug in all the bulbs so that you have them all grounded through and using the cluster assembly using your new ground wire. The ONLY two bulbs with two wires going to them are for the idiot lights and so you can easily figure out where those two can ONLY go. Do what ever it takes to make sure all your bulbs are good to make this easier.
Then turn the ignition key on and watch FOR three things. Hopefully you will see the fuel and the temp gauges move at least a little bit, and also BOTH the oil and the alt idiot lights should light up.
Regardless of those, now when you turn on the left turn you should see one only bulb flashing, make sure that one is the correct spot, same with the right turn. Then turn on the parking lights and watch which ones light up and also dim using the switch,, put those in the correct positions, Then turn on the head lights and hit the high beams,, you should see one only bulb turn on, indicating this is the high beam indicator bulb. It is directly in the center and on the top part of the speedo gauge. Its a simple thing to figure out which and where if every thing is working,,,,,
Working on the two gauges is another post,,,,LOL>...
This way also, you can get at the DUMB fuse panel on the light switch much easier also. The speedo cable should be hand tight is all that is needed...
vic

HaHa= Gotta love it =Old Skl!! Ford did have a ="BETTER IDEA" Fuse on the light switch!! Id forgotten that Brilliant idea!!