My '67 318

I disassembled my '67 318 tonight. I wanted to see what the bores looked like before deciding whether to rebuild it or not. I am happy to report they are perfect! Looks like I just need to regasket everything, new valve seals, new timing chain and gears, paint and install! My question is, have any of you guys used a timing chain tensioner? That thing sure looks like it needs one. Also, have any of you beefed it up a bit by putting in an aftermarket cam? I am running an Edelbrock performer intake, and 650 four barrel carb.

Tom

look in to a purple rv cam

call summitt racing..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lAL40Q9mQU

I installed a chain tensioner in my 273 in the summer. I have not been able to run it since, but it makes the chain stay nice a tight instead of flopping. I got one for a 3.9L Dakota and used my cam thrust plate as a template to drill out the 4th hole on the plate.

I did some research online and found that unless I am planning to spool this thing up tighter than a swiss watch, a really good quality timing chain and gear set will suffice. I am looking at the Edelbrock performer street cam and lifter set, and wonder if anyone replaced their push rods as well? The end that goes in the original lifters is a little different.

Tom

Did a complete rebuild in 1996 and took about the same route you're taking. Installed an RV cam with a 0.280 int and 0.295 exh lift. I'm just a regular backyard mechanic and relied on the 'expert' advice of the local machine shop who ordered the parts for me. After installing the new cam, lifters, rods, manifold and carb it sorta ran ok but I couldn't get rid of a carb backfire – drove me nuts. Finally took close measurements and realized that the valves weren't fully closing by just a couple thousandths, because the machine shop 'experts' ordered the wrong lifters. Shorter rods weren't available so I had to tear down and replace the lifters – boy, talk about fun. The 'experts' said that it was my fault for not measuring all the parts and figuring out the correct lift prior to installation...

And the moral to the story? The word 'expert' simply refers to someone who used to be a spurt.

Thanks for the heads up rebar! I appreciate it. I am much the same, backyard mechanic here as well. I have the service manual here and will research lifter dimensions and rod lengths before ordering my new parts.

Tom

You're welcome Mr m. As far as timing chains/gears/sprockets go, I've learned that it's not worth it using anything but the best you can find.

Just my opinion the timing chain and a steel gear instead of nylon and it will last 100,000 miles. Now how long is it going to take you to rack up that many miles.??? . As far as the tenioner goes my 04 dodge pick up hemi had the tenioner brake at 114,000 miles but the chain and gear were fine, Yes i replaced it all but that realy sucked to do that tear down over a tenioner/slack adjuster.

Used a fiber gear once in a car - lasted 65k. The few extra bucks for a steel gear coulda saved a lotta headache, IMO.

I am definitely going with a high quality, Edelbrock double roller hardened steel timing gear set. The newest problem I have run into is the cam and lifter kit. I have found that the pushrods in my engine seem to be a one year only part. They have a strange tip on the end going into the lifter. I am just hoping to order the kit, and the correct length pushrods of a newer style. If anyone could chime in with what part numbers they are running that would be awesome. I am leaning towards the edelbrock street performer cam and lifter set. I think that may play the best with my intake/carb set-up.

Tom

millwright71 wrote:I am definitely going with a high quality,

Like they say - there never seems to be enough time or money to the job right the first time, but there's always enough time and money to do it all over again.

The newest problem I have run into is the cam and lifter kit. I have found that the pushrods in my engine seem to be a one year only part. They have a strange tip on the end going into the lifter.

check your casting number on the block. v-8 push rods were the same for a looooong time in dodge, BUT 273 solid lifter push rods were different as were roller cam ones. has someone made a change that your NOT aware of.???

It is definitely a 318. Cast in May of '67. The lifters are hydraulic, the push rods have no oiling hole. They are about 7.5 inches long, and 1/4 diameter.

call sumitt racing they will spend the time and talk with you. they are trustworthy ...

I will give them a call when I am done with work this week. I chatted with online tech support, and he told me that the push rods on his database were cupped on one end. That is definitely not the case with mine.

Tom

Post some pics of what you currently have.

I did some research and it looks like the pushrods are the same as the 67 Charger 318. They are 7.604 long, .230 dia ball tapered end, and a .312 dia ball opposite end. These are for the hydraulic lifters with non adjustable rocker arms. I will contact summit racing with this information and see what they recommend as far as their cam and lifter kit, and what pushrods to use. It has been a long road researching this, I guess I ran into the same roadblock alot of us find when trying to find parts for these beauties!

Tom

this has got my intrest so may i offer this info direct from clevite engine parts books. i knew i kept these old books for a reason from when i worked at the parts store a few years ago.
in 1967 there was a specific 318 engine that was canadian built and the only year it shows a different part number for "stock" push rods.
1967 canadian only - clevite part # 215-4030 spec at 8.509 length. solid , ball on one end and cup at other, .313 diameter
as you can see the length is way off by an inch.!!
1957 - 1966 engines part # 215-4029 8.563 length. solid. ball on one end and cup on other. .313 diameter
again the lenght is way off BUT these engines are more than likely what was refered to as "polyspherical" . basicly the block is the same but not exactly and the difference was most notably the heads and intake. i know from racing stock cars that the heads would bolt to any "LA" block as it was done. the easiest way to identify a poly engine is by the valve covers, they had two bolts in the center of them holding them on and the newer "LA" ones had 5 perimiter bolts in the valve covers.
"LA" engine push rod specs;
1968-1980 clevite part #215-4111 7.50 length. solid. same ball on both ends. .313 diameter
this is closer by length and the ones used for "LA" engines using stamped steel rocker arms, non adjustable, hyudraulic lifters.
there is another for adjustable rocker arms, hydraulic lifters, but they would not have the stamped rocker arms.
1967 - 1980 clevite part # 215-4186 7.265 length. drilled. same ball on both ends..313 diameter.
the last possibility for the "LA" engine is;
1957 - 1980 clevite part # 215-4089 7.490 length. solid. ball on one end cup on other. .313 diameter
the last choice was primarly used on performance engines with solid lifters and adjustable rocker arms, that are not one piece stamped steel.
after looking through the books i will give my opinion on what you have but its just an evaluation, thats all.
someone at some point in time used the wrong parts in this engine and it is confusing all of us. the push rods no doubt are wrong and more than likely collapsed all the lifters if they were hydraulic to start with and renderd the engine a solid lifter engine by mistake.it would run but was probably noisey at idle for sure. you have a certain amount of free play in a lifter before you bottom them out. an old stock car trick was to use lead shot to plug the oil hole in a hydraulic lifter making it a solid for more lift. with out seeing your rocker arms and pushrods i believe you will be good with the 215-4111 push rods and stock lifters 213-1679 and a decent camshaft was 229-1735 all clevite part #'s. all these numbers are still used today and can be superseded by other manufactures. but with cam changes one should always check for coil bind of the valve springs and piston to valve clearance when assembling your engine.
hope some of this helps................. jeff

I really appreciate all of you guy's help with my strange engine deal. I drove this van about 4k miles last summer and she ran awesome! I had her out on the highway at over 70, and it drove like a dream. The main reason I pulled the engine is it was extremely greasy.
I thought since I am planning to change the rear gears to 2.76 for a more highway speed friendly rpm range I would beef up the cam a bit to help compensate. The starter, water pump, timing chain and gears, everything on this engine is original. The van started life as a fire department rescue vehicle, and shows 50k miles on the clock.
The only other strange thing about this engine is it is painted orange, not red like supposedly all the other 318LA engines were. I have no serial number matching the van # anywhere on the block. The cam and lifters look perfect, and if I can't get a solid answer from summit racing, I will probably continue to run the original set up.

jkr wrote:this has got my intrest so may i offer this info direct from clevite engine parts books...

Thank you Jeff for doing this research and posting it here. Great post.

@jkr I have seen what I believe to be that same engine you're talking about in California care that were local only. 63 sport fury vert I had for a short bit had that poly engine in it. I remember the valve covers sort of having that scalloped effect on the bottom edge. I was led to bieve at the time that it was called the "early 318".

Gothboy wrote:@jkr I have seen what I believe to be that same engine you're talking about in California care that were local only. 63 sport fury vert I had for a short bit had that poly engine in it. I remember the valve covers sort of having that scalloped effect on the bottom edge. I was led to bieve at the time that it was called the "early 318".

1963 would more than likely be the poly engine. the "la" version was still on the drafting table i believe around that time, desigining the heads and valvtrain. i was only 6 years old then so i can't say for sure.
and as a side note the poly engine displacment was actually 313 and 315 cubic inches but everybody still calls them 318 because of the block being so close.

jkr, great post.
I will say that the early A engines (poly) are easy to spot. They have a scalloped valve cover with the hold down bolts in the top middle.


The pushrods with the cups should be for the 273 Late A (LA) engines with adjustable rocker arms. They have a ball on the adjuster, so a cup is needed on the pushrod.



All LA 318 engines were hydraulic, so they should all have the ball/ball pushrods.


Millwright, make sure to inspect the old rockers for wear and remember that they do go in a specific order on the shafts to align properly. Since they bolt down and are not adjustable, it is important to have the valves at the proper height, the right length pushrods and the correct lifters. If the old pushrods had the taper facing the lifters, I wouldn't be worried about them, since they are being replaced with the cam.
Please check the cam info for proper cam break-in! It is important to perform this. Many people have had failures for various reasons in the past 5-10 years.

Thanks for all the info, but to eliminate problems, and based on the excellent condition of the valve train in general, I put all the original parts back in. I will upgrade later if it proves to need more power with the other gears.

Tom