A100 Rewire

I purchased A new complete wiring kit from Rebel wire. The quality looks good. I removed the old harness yesterday and will start installing the new one tomorrow. I am assuming this will not be a plug and play install as our old wiring harnesses have several splices in them where circuits are connected together. Im sure there are some VV members who have done this before and would like to hear any insights or tips / problems you can share!!

I would use the new style weatherpack connectors.
There are a few connectors I can think of.
Main harness to rear harness at the base of the A pillar.
Main harness to engine charging and temp harness.
Headlight, turn signal and tail light connectors.
There are also terminal ends that are slip fit, like the fuel sending unit and the gauges.
Will you have the fuse block in the same location?
Will you change to a EI voltage regulator instead of the old mechanical one?
Will you use the same gauges, particularly the AMP gauge with all the charging current going from the alt thru the harness, up to the gauge, then back down the harness to the battery?
Do you plan on additions like lights, stereo, electronic ignition, pumps, fans?

Make sure you have a good, legible copy of the wiring diagram. In fact, have a few.
As you run a circuit, trace it on your copy with highlighter. You can keep track of your progress and what's done and needed.
Always leave a bit of slack on the harness. For example, you want to be able to remove the gauge cluster and look at the back of it without pulling wires off.
They make reusable zip ties so you can tie some wires together and adjust as you work the harness into the vehicle. Take a look on the web for race car and show car wiring. These guys take the time to make it work, look good and for ease of service.
Example: http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0708_race_car_wiring/viewall.html
There are probably enough articles and DIY threads out there to keep you reading all weekend!

Good luck, take notes and pictures!

Rod

Thanks for all the good tips!! Great stuff.

hey badbadger, can i ask you wich kit you bought at what price, doing some electrical stuff,i've noticed my wiring was very brittle(very hazardous)..thanks...corrosive

Corosive
I purchased the 16 circuit wiring harness. Although our earlies have 8 circuits I wanted the option of adding a few goodies later on. They offer several kits with fewer circuits. Cost of the 16 circuit kit was $200.00.

i will second rod on that, if you could take some picts, i'm very interested...corrosive

I have been pondering the stock VS aftermarket kit for a while. Another thing I've considered is to move the fuse block, starter solenoid, ballast resistor and other 'chunks'.
I'd prefer the doghouse to be removable without messing with wiring, so I thought about moving the items on there to under the floor near the battery. Having a small box like the battery box with the components tucked in.
If the charging system and amp meter were changed out to modern electronic and voltmeter, the main power feeds wouldn't be needed and regulator could also be in the small box.
Adding relays for the ignition system, wipers and headlights would also remove high amp wiring from the dash area. The fuse block could be tucked into the box or, for easier access and service, into the driver's B pillar right behind the door latch.

i contacted Rebel wire( by email) wants to see what they got to offer....corrosvie

RodStRace wrote:I have been pondering the stock VS aftermarket kit for a while. Another thing I've considered is to move the fuse block, starter solenoid, ballast resistor and other 'chunks'.
I'd prefer the doghouse to be removable without messing with wiring, so I thought about moving the items on there to under the floor near the battery. Having a small box like the battery box with the components tucked in.
If the charging system and amp meter were changed out to modern electronic and voltmeter, the main power feeds wouldn't be needed and regulator could also be in the small box.
Adding relays for the ignition system, wipers and headlights would also remove high amp wiring from the dash area. The fuse block could be tucked into the box or, for easier access and service, into the driver's B pillar right behind the door latch.

I have been thinking the same thing. The back of our doghouse is still connected because of the wiring. I recall my days when I had an RV and the electrical panel was neat and tidy. I agree that a box or electrical panel behind the driver/near the battery would be awesome. (and clearly labeled to boot!)

I agree with all of you . i installed a 2nd fuse block in the wall behind the driver, every thing I added on went in that wall, All my wiring looked very good so i didn't want to touch it only removed the radio from it. and installed new volt, water temp and oil gauges,

Guess this means I'm not crazy... or that I have good company in the looney bin!
If the only real power the light switch had to carry was the triggers for the lights and the dimmer for the dash, that would cut down amperage big time.
Ignition switch could trigger a relay to power up the IGN or RUN part of the fuse block, and trigger the starter relay.
The brake/running/turn part would be interesting, but again could be done on relays. Use the switches only to trigger.
Replace the amp gauge with a voltmeter and all you have is temp, oil pressure, fuel and the voltmeter. 4 light wires.
Fuse block in the B pillar.
Under the floor, have the starter relay, ballast, voltage regulator, and ignition module.
You could route the wiring with 2 holes; one in the top of the box with the triangle cover, and another out the side, going over to the box with the other goodies under the floor. Don't forget grommets!
Since the wipers and lights are switched and located in front of the doghouse, I think a fat, fused power lead to a set of relays for those functions would work up front. The ignition and start relays could be by the fuse block. Any interior lighting could have a switch anywhere and the relay here too. There is enough room for most amps to tuck in here too. You'd want to shield it from heavy power, but most of that is in the doghouse, battery box or under the floor, so it should be fine. An inverter for the camping vanners would work too, but I'd consider putting it under. Heat and keeping it away from the amp.
On that ignition relay, you could add a hidden switch to interrupt the ground, disabling it. It would crank but not fire.
Don't forget a separate circuit and light so you can see all your work when needed.

How is the re-wire going? I just got through reading lots of info on alternators and bypassing Amp-meters and such. I'm thinking i'd feel better after a re-wire. I don't want to fool myself upgrading to disc brakes to make the van safer for my son, only to realize he's riding in a time bomb with old wires! So much to do!

My rewire job is on hold. The paint shop guys advised me to finish the paint before installing the new wiring. Reason was, the dash and fire wall are being painted so why put in all of the color coded wires only to have them painted. So my new harness is setting next to my old harness on a work table where I will begin to add conectors and terminals after the van heads back for final paint. Weather permitting that may happen this week. But woke up to snow again this morning. So we'll see !!

BADBADGER wrote:My rewire job is on hold. The paint shop guys advised me to finish the paint before installing the new wiring. Reason was, the dash and fire wall are being painted so why put in all of the color coded wires only to have them painted. So my new harness is setting next to my old harness on a work table where I will begin to add conectors and terminals after the van heads back for final paint. Weather permitting that may happen this week. But woke up to snow again this morning. So we'll see !!

Thanks for the update. So, were you able to remove the old harness in one piece? did you have to cut any connectors? Be sure to take pictures for us. Looks like a few more of us will be trying this soon. :0)