Mosquito killer

Hi,
I've been poking around the site now for awhile and have been impressed with all of the knowledge and helpful folks on here. I have a '62 Falcon Station Bus that I finally have approval from my darling bride to fix up. I convinced her it wasn't worth selling and it is just too much fun to drive around. It has what I believe is later 200 in it (according to your freeze plug and water pump bolt trick). A local machine shop also told me that according to the casting numbers on the block it was produced after 66. It has good compression on each cylinder, runs strong, idles nicely, and starts great. She was even my daily driver for awhile during our balmy North Dakota winters. That all being said, it smokes like son of a gun. The neighbors ask me to drive up and down the alleyway when the mosquitoes get bad. By looking at the plugs, it seems that cylinders 3, 4, and 5 burn the most oil. There is also oil sitting down in the spark plug well. When I pull those plugs out they are covered in oil. Could that oil be working it's way through the threads and into the cylinders and all I have to replace is the valve cover gasket? Or am I looking at something else? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

Burning oil out the tailpipe is most likely from 2 sources.
The first is worn valve guides and/or bad seals.
The seals can be changed without removing the head, but is a bit fussy. It's the simplest fix, and is propably worth trying if the compression is good and money is being held for other fix ups. Cost is labor, perhaps a couple tools and less than 100 in parts (including a new valve cover gasket)

The guides require removing the head and taking it in to a machine shop for replacement. This can be done by the average DIY guy or gal with some tools and hopefully some support. Cost is labor to Remove and Install (R&I) the head, a couple tools and machine shop costs. You can also search for a rebuilt head and swap it on. Parts would be oil and filter, coolant, a gasket set called "a head set" and I would also change the thermostat while it's out and apart. Get a high quality one.

The second most likely cause is the piston rings. These fit into the pistons and ride up and down the cylinder walls. They are also responsible for sealing the pistons, so good compression tends to discount this as the cause, although they can hold compression and still let oil by. Fixing this would require removing the engine and you would probably go ahead and rebuild it entirely at this point.

Rod's very correct- only thing id add is this - instead of a regular compression test have some one (mechanic) do a "Leak down_ test on the cylinders= this WILL show leakage past the rings. Maybe u have a buddy working as an aircraft mechanic??? That is whats done to all reciporcating aircraft engines on inspections -I have a tester here -can get then even at Harbor freight now - just must have some compressed air available to use . If compression is great?? just do the valve seals-like rods telling. seals will get bad & cracked from time & heat also - yet then there is the possibility of bad guides also.

Welcome to the site

I already did the valve guide seals. The old ones were destroyed. Haven't done a leak down test. That is next. Better to see if it needs a whole rebuild before I start in on the head. Mostly I am just trying to get as many ideas as possible before I finally convince myself that it needs a total rebuild. Also just really curious about all of that oil in the spark plug holes. Seemed odd, especially since it does have a new valve cover gasket from when I did the seals and how it corresponded with the most fouled plugs.

if the rings are worn????? Leakdown?/ - id also add if the valve seaols have been replaced?? The rings are getting bad - and if so - and u have a pvc valve or just a direct hose from valve cover to carb ,aircleaner or base there -thats where you are getting the oil from-usually when one type parts go bad the rest is always needed also .now -ive also done this=if its the rings - change all out -lightly hone the cyls & cleanind all pistons & groves well -put it back ,maybe ?new crank & rod bearings?? Just look @ all ur options

secondrowjoe wrote: Also just really curious about all of that oil in the spark plug holes. Seemed odd, especially since it does have a new valve cover gasket from when I did the seals and how it corresponded with the most fouled plugs.

The spark plugs seal the cylinders enough to provide the power to move the vehicle. Kinda unlikely that it would pressurize enough to push a 3500+ pound vehicle but still allow oil to seep in....

Very true. I think I have numerous problems to deal with here. She did sit for a long time. I'll start with the leakdown test, then go from there. I have rebuilt a couple of motorcycle engines, I guess this is just a bit bigger.

Welcome secondrowjoe....

Welcome from a few hours north of you! Best of luck figuring it out!